Husqvarna 340/345/350 Jonsered 2141/2145/2150 Information

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There is one in Mansfield, for $120 obo. Look up Ohio Mansfield CL.

I was gonna go get it. But have to much going on with family this weekend.

Maybe he will ship? Im sure for $100, you could have it...

If it's there next weekend? Its MINE!

Mansfield isn't to far from me , but I have enough for now. LOL
 
Correct, and there are a few other hardware differences as well. (and some mis-information so far in this thread)

First thing to be aware of is that all early saws in this family used a course thread for both the cylinder and bottom riser block bolts. Change was 2002/2003 to the finer thread bolts. This was not just on 350's but on the early metal case saws, (346/351/2149) as well. So obviously, mixing hardware can wreck some existing threads.

When adding the riser block to a 340/345/2141/2145 you cannot use the bottom bolts that originally held those cylinders on because they are longer than the bolts that are used for the intake block.

The flange on the base of a 346 cylinder is thinner than that on the 351/353, (early or late 350) cylinders. Therefore you need to remove about .050 from the cylinder bolts to prevent them from bottoming out.

Either of the "350" cylinders respond real good to ditching the base gasket, (about a 25psi bump), and a muffler mod. (certainly want to have the flat top piston in the "353" cylinder). Such a set up makes a real good runner that is very close to any 346. Either 350 jug works great and it's a waste to toss away a cylinder that's in good shape and buy a 346 top end.

Spike How Can I date a 350 saw?? I have one from a friend of my Nephew's that he has been into :bang: problem is that one is in Parts in a box:bang::bang: and it has a primer bulb on it so I guess it is a doner/parts saw,,, and the other one does not,,,

I can get it cranked and it runs out good on the topend but wont idle at all.. Some times have to partial choke it to get it to rev,,, sounds like a bad air leak as others have pointed out??? Where are the serial #'s located so I can make sure he has the rifght carb on it,,, BTW Is the primer bulb carb differnt from a non primer bulb model????


Here's my free to me 350, after a couple of bengies into it, I kinda like it

heck I like the Ford truck too!!!!
 
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Spike How Can I date a 350 saw?? I have one from a friend of my Nephew's that he has been into :bang: problem is that one is in Parts in a box:bang::bang: and it has a primer bulb on it so I guess it is a doner/parts saw,,, and the other one does not,,,

I can get it cranked and it runs out good on the topend but wont idle at all.. Some times have to partial choke it to get it to rev,,, sounds like a bad air leak as others have pointed out??? Where are the serial #'s located so I can make sure he has the rifght carb on it,,, BTW Is the primer bulb carb differnt from a non primer bulb model????




heck I like the Ford truck too!!!!

Just take a look at the number plate to date it, but that doesn't always tell which exact version it is. :givebeer:
 
Just take a look at the number plate to date it, but that doesn't always tell which exact version it is. :givebeer:

Thats the problem Niko,,, On the prograde Husky saws I have the number plate it right by the chain oil fill cap,,,, I dont see one:bang: at all On this thing GRRRRRRR!!!! :givebeer:
 
Thats the problem Niko,,, On the prograde Husky saws I have the number plate it right by the chain oil fill cap,,,, I dont see one:bang: at all On this thing GRRRRRRR!!!! :givebeer:

Take the clutch cover off, and you will see it under the rear part of the handlebar, on that side.
 
Spike How Can I date a 350 saw?? I have one from a friend of my Nephew's that he has been into :bang: problem is that one is in Parts in a box:bang::bang: and it has a primer bulb on it so I guess it is a doner/parts saw,,, and the other one does not,,,

I can get it cranked and it runs out good on the topend but wont idle at all.. Some times have to partial choke it to get it to rev,,, sounds like a bad air leak as others have pointed out??? Where are the serial #'s located so I can make sure he has the rifght carb on it,,, BTW Is the primer bulb carb differnt from a non primer bulb model????




heck I like the Ford truck too!!!!

There are 3 different stock carb options. The black tag is under the clutch cover on the left. You have an air leak is why it won't idle. The first thing to look at to tell what top end you have is the transfer caps on the jug. If it has them its a 51.7 cc 45mm bore closed port. Most primer bulb saws were this. It's safe practice to re seal the riser block and top end anytime you spot air leaks anywhere. It's not hard to do and it's worth the extra effort. Replace the plastic boot clamp with a metal one.
 
heck I like the Ford truck too!!!!

So do I. That's my 53 1T box and hoist truck named Barry cause that's what's written on the back window by the PO, free to me cause who ever put the hoist on couldn't weld to the spec of "unsecured 3/4 full water tank hitting the side of the box in a wild right hand turn" which ripped it off the truck. Reassemble and it's been in my yard since.
 
I stumbled upon what appears to be an early 2150, it clearly says 2150 Turbo on the recoil cover. I know that the "turbo" refers to the cyclone pre-filter for the combustion air. It struck me funny that the add for it said 49.4cc because I had thought that all 350's/2150's were 51.7cc, which appears to be the later EPA certified saws. What is the difference between the two engines other than the difference in displacement? Is one preferable over the other? Did they increase the displacement to offset the decrease in performance due to the EPA certification?
Thanks,
Adam.
 
I stumbled upon what appears to be an early 2150, it clearly says 2150 Turbo on the recoil cover. I know that the "turbo" refers to the cyclone pre-filter for the combustion air. It struck me funny that the add for it said 49.4cc because I had thought that all 350's/2150's were 51.7cc, which appears to be the later EPA certified saws. What is the difference between the two engines other than the difference in displacement? Is one preferable over the other? Did they increase the displacement to offset the decrease in performance due to the EPA certification?
Thanks,
Adam.

The first couple pages have this information in it it. But the 49cc is an open port flat top piston also used on the 351 the later epa 51.7 share the same closed port cylinder with the 353. The only difference in the two is the 350 has a dished piston. The later epa models almost always have a primer bulb as well. They also use fine threaded head bolts opposed to the earlier models which used a coarse threaded bolt.
 
The first couple pages have this information in it it. But the 49cc is an open port flat top piston also used on the 351 the later epa 51.7 share the same closed port cylinder with the 353. The only difference in the two is the 350 has a dished piston. The later epa models almost always have a primer bulb as well. They also use fine threaded head bolts opposed to the earlier models which used a coarse threaded bolt.
Thank you. Sorry to make you repeat something, had forgotten that 49cc had entered the discussion early on. I had it in my mind that 49cc was the 2149 and not the 2150.
 
I came across my first 3 series recently, a '99 345. I've posted elsewhere how much I liked the ergo's compared to my 2 series saws, but the plastic case is a put-off for me.

An '06 353 has just been listed locally, are they metal case? What's best course of action to get them 'XP-ing'??

Cheers, Adam
 
I came across my first 3 series recently, a '99 345. I've posted elsewhere how much I liked the ergo's compared to my 2 series saws, but the plastic case is a put-off for me.

An '06 353 has just been listed locally, are they metal case? What's best course of action to get them 'XP-ing'??

Cheers, Adam

The 353 is a mag case , you would need a 346 top end to make a xp out of it.

The 345 has a open port 44mm P&C , all the others have a closed port 45mm P&C . The 350 & 353 have bolt on transfer covers.

I have a 350,353 & 346 . Hard to tell the difference in how they run. The 346 has just a tiny bit more than the 350 or 353 . They are all great saws I think ! LOL
 
The 353 is a mag case , you would need a 346 top end to make a xp out of it.

The 345 has a open port 44mm P&C , all the others have a closed port 45mm P&C . The 350 & 353 have bolt on transfer covers.

I have a 350,353 & 346 . Hard to tell the difference in how they run. The 346 has just a tiny bit more than the 350 or 353 . They are all great saws I think ! LOL

Cool, so the 353 cylinder is lower performance with limited potential vs 346, but easily solved with an entire p&c upgrade and a muffler mod. I'm liking where this might go! My 242 may be on borrowed time......

Cheers, Adam.
 
Cool, so the 353 cylinder is lower performance with limited potential vs 346, but easily solved with an entire p&c upgrade and a muffler mod. I'm liking where this might go! My 242 may be on borrowed time......

Cheers, Adam.

Yes , just put a 346 top end on the 353. Muff mod and a little porting makes a great saw out of it !
 
Thank you. Sorry to make you repeat something, had forgotten that 49cc had entered the discussion early on. I had it in my mind that 49cc was the 2149 and not the 2150.

Those originally shared the same 49.4cc open port top end, like the Husky 351 and 350.
 
The 353 is a mag case , you would need a 346 top end to make a xp out of it.

The 345 has a open port 44mm P&C , all the others have a closed port 45mm P&C . The 350 & 353 have bolt on transfer covers.

I have a 350,353 & 346 . Hard to tell the difference in how they run. The 346 has just a tiny bit more than the 350 or 353 . They are all great saws I think ! LOL

The 345 is also a clamshell. To put any of the 350,353,346 top ends on it you need the riser block and the appropriate hardware. The 353 has a flat top piston the 350 has a dished so there's a noticeable difference in performance. The 350's also had open port top ends as well. The closed port 350/353 top end doesn't have limited performance gains they can be made pretty nasty keep an eye out for a thread in the next couple days.
 
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