Help Support Arborist Forum:
that transfer looks like intake debris ... ie.. filter wasn't doing its job, overclogged...
this saw would be far better off with a ..... new P&C ... not because the one you have is bad, but because the 346xp P&C is just that much better
I understand you are on a budget. My 350 (saw #5 in my vids) I now have probably $400 into. i'm not even sure 350's were that pricey brand new. They do suck up some bux, but they really work well once you get them sorted.
don't forget to get a muffler support... and check my other vids for tips... lots more info on my channel
this saw would be far better off with a ..... new P&C ... not because the one you have is bad, but because the 346xp P&C is just that much better
I understand you are on a budget. My 350 (saw #5 in my vids) I now have probably $400 into. i'm not even sure 350's were that pricey brand new. They do suck up some bux, but they really work well once you get them sorted.
don't forget to get a muffler support... and check my other vids for tips... lots more info on my channel
I have around $200 into my initially free 350. Every single moving part except for the rod bearing has been replaced and the saw is basically brand new and now runs great.
After a few project saws that turned into money pits I have learned to do a complete diagnosis of a saw before getting into it.
After a few project saws that turned into money pits I have learned to do a complete diagnosis of a saw before getting into it.
Northerner
ArboristSite Operative
Thanks Matt, I watched that vid last nite yet. So has this 3 bond been proven yet much? I don't know what's all avalible here, we have limited resources.
I would like to go the 346xp route, but this saw just to fix and sell. Do good if I break even now.
Here is the kicker, the guy I bought it from claims he does the same kinda work, "fix" saws. Figured out he just gets saws running, not necessarily fixed.
I would like to go the 346xp route, but this saw just to fix and sell. Do good if I break even now.
Here is the kicker, the guy I bought it from claims he does the same kinda work, "fix" saws. Figured out he just gets saws running, not necessarily fixed.
1184 is a proven product...and will be THE thing I use for these bearing caps for the forsee able future.
I've sold many 350s....spent way too much money and sold them on....most of the time I lose money.
I've sold many 350s....spent way too much money and sold them on....most of the time I lose money.
Northerner
ArboristSite Operative
Not much luck with search function, can I press the bearings out of the seals? Dealer wants 36 bucks a piece.....Also found this stuff there, anyone try it?
Chainganger
ArboristSite Lurker
SawTroll
Information Collector
The 346xp route likely is the best way to go in the 50cc class, particularly if you factor in handling (which you should). Also, they are the 50cc saws that have the basically most sound top end design (non strato quad transfer closed port, with ample metal to work with), that takes best to basic porting (as always it has to be done right of course).
Chainganger
ArboristSite Lurker
I am doing another one of these and am using one with a primer bulb tank but will be using a non-primer carburetor. Rather than just blocking off the return line nipple for gas that would otherwise come back into the tank from the primer bulb, I added an ECHO tank vent there so now there are two, like this ...
Attachments
WadePatton
ArboristSite Guru
WHOOOOOOOOOOOOT!
just found this thread.
So I've got some reading to do. I got my 2145 apart and the jug and slug look fine, the crap on the slug wiped off--BUT the bearings feel like crap. So now I'm ordering bearing and seals and re-jugging it just the same.
Also scorched pretty bad on top of the oil tank I may clean up and fill some of that.
THANKS in advance to the contributors to this thread. I've a 2150 and a 2145.
How did I get two "twin" saws? Well, the 2145 was stolen, replaced with 2150, then 2145 was recovered with engine and bar burned up--had it rebuilt (and got compensated because the boy was yet in jail) and it was great for quite a while. Then it got "balky" and didn't want to start. So I looked into the E port and saw metal on the piston, shelved it for later. NOW is later.
just found this thread.
So I've got some reading to do. I got my 2145 apart and the jug and slug look fine, the crap on the slug wiped off--BUT the bearings feel like crap. So now I'm ordering bearing and seals and re-jugging it just the same.
Also scorched pretty bad on top of the oil tank I may clean up and fill some of that.
THANKS in advance to the contributors to this thread. I've a 2150 and a 2145.
How did I get two "twin" saws? Well, the 2145 was stolen, replaced with 2150, then 2145 was recovered with engine and bar burned up--had it rebuilt (and got compensated because the boy was yet in jail) and it was great for quite a while. Then it got "balky" and didn't want to start. So I looked into the E port and saw metal on the piston, shelved it for later. NOW is later.
WadePatton
ArboristSite Guru
Done. Found the source of odd metal in my case appears to be the bearings cage dealio came apart on the starter side.
Some bits of that metal were in the case and some is yet attached and hitting the crank--that's where the odd feel was coming from.
Anyhoo I think I got my two in the early 00's, and this overhaul of the 2145 will be followed by the 50.
Some bits of that metal were in the case and some is yet attached and hitting the crank--that's where the odd feel was coming from.
Anyhoo I think I got my two in the early 00's, and this overhaul of the 2145 will be followed by the 50.
WadePatton
ArboristSite Guru
I need a case. (nevemind, I'm fixing this one)
Turns out that the starter side bearing got hot enough to deform the plastic case. I'm debating epoxying the thing back to plumb. But the BEST option is a fresh case I'm sure. Also, maybe I should start a thread.
Once removed from case, the bearings felt fine--but the balls are no longer spaced properly in one side. That pup has been hot. Of course, because I didn't do the original overhaul, I have no idea how much of this happened at my hand. Matters not in the end, because I gotta fix it.
Turns out that the starter side bearing got hot enough to deform the plastic case. I'm debating epoxying the thing back to plumb. But the BEST option is a fresh case I'm sure. Also, maybe I should start a thread.
Once removed from case, the bearings felt fine--but the balls are no longer spaced properly in one side. That pup has been hot. Of course, because I didn't do the original overhaul, I have no idea how much of this happened at my hand. Matters not in the end, because I gotta fix it.
Also shows typical loose muffle damage
WadePatton
ArboristSite Guru
Of course it does, but tha's not my primary concern. Tank ain't leaking you know. I recall hearing a loose muff and tightening it up while in the woods many years ago, but also the crooks had dented the muffler and burned up the bar they had on it, plus the original bar (forever lost), so I don't know how much I did or how much they did. I let the dealer fix it. I know it ran good for a number of years after the initial overhaul. Oil tank hasn't been an issue.
Hey I started a thread: https://www.arboristsite.com/commun...2150-2145-jonsereds-and-husky-350-etc.328034/
