Husqvarna 340/345/350 Jonsered 2141/2145/2150 Information

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I am out of popcorn.:eek:

Need a tooth pick? :msp_confused:

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/mweba1/8466979040/" title="Untitled by mweba1, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8368/8466979040_e86bfa0cf6_c.jpg" width="800" height="600" alt="Untitled"></a>


<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/mweba1/8465875055/" title="Untitled by mweba1, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8245/8465875055_bbf0ed2448_c.jpg" width="800" height="600" alt="Untitled"></a>

I like to do em this way so I can quickly swap between configurations while testing. The and the end user can toss on a new jug and slug if thing go wrong...
 
Need a tooth pick? :msp_confused:

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/mweba1/8466979040/" title="Untitled by mweba1, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8368/8466979040_e86bfa0cf6_c.jpg" width="800" height="600" alt="Untitled"></a>


<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/mweba1/8465875055/" title="Untitled by mweba1, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8245/8465875055_bbf0ed2448_c.jpg" width="800" height="600" alt="Untitled"></a>

I like to do em this way so I can quickly swap between configurations while testing. The and the end user can toss on a new jug and slug if thing go wrong...

Nice lathe Mitch :D
 
I'm sorry for acting frustrated. I'm a friendly person and I go out of my way to help folks. It's just a little irritating for me to answer your questions and get a rebuttal. There's tons of reading on this site. If you have trouble finding information start a thread. Ask short specific questions and take notes. Often times when you break a question into pieces you'll get not only a better understanding but more usable information. If you want to know about case volume and how it affects a saws performance then ask.

Sometimes amateurs just don't know how to ask the questions properly...I guess that's me. The way I've learned what I have, has been by asking questions, reading, asking more questions, seeing someone do it, and do it myself. I didn't go to school (at least not for this stuff) like many pro builders, so sometimes, probably many times, I'm going to ask questions that make you slap yourself on the forehead and get frustrated and think WTF. Don't worry, you wont scare me off by getting annoyed that I don't know everything about modding that you do. I fully expect you and the other full timers will know more that the average hobbiest. If you didn't, you wouldn't be in business. Maybe someday I will know as much, but not today. Please don't think that I haven't spent way too many hours going through old threads and stickies. I bet if you were building a house with me, or building a late 60's GM muscle car from scratch, you would be asking questions that would drive me crazy....even though there is enough literature out there to spend a lifetime reading. Remember, many on this site don't do this stuff full time, but i'm sure we all do something full time.
 
Using rim-type drive on HVA 350 / Jonsered CS2150

The product line of farmer saws usually have sprocket type drives, where as the professional saws preferably are equipped with rim-type chain drive wheels.

I have the intention of upgrading our Jonsered CS2150 to rim-type, and found that a test swap with the drive wheel from our CS2152 didn't directly fit. On the IPL I found that the oil pump drive wheel is what differs! Anyone with experience, that already has made this modification and has a suitable part number?

Ref:
http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/237587.htm
http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/243679.htm
Husqvarna 350 / Jonsered CS2150 ringdrev | skogsforum.se
 
just bringing a great thread back to life :msp_biggrin:what carb do you think is better on the ported 350. zama or the walbro. on the 359 every one seems to like the walbro better when they work right
 
The product line of farmer saws usually have sprocket type drives, where as the professional saws preferably are equipped with rim-type chain drive wheels.

I have the intention of upgrading our Jonsered CS2150 to rim-type, and found that a test swap with the drive wheel from our CS2152 didn't directly fit. On the IPL I found that the oil pump drive wheel is what differs! Anyone with experience, that already has made this modification and has a suitable part number?

Ref:
http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/237587.htm
http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/243679.htm
Husqvarna 350 / Jonsered CS2150 ringdrev | skogsforum.se

I had this 2150, and i wanted to use a 8 pin chain sprocket in it. I took the clutch drum, from one old 346xp oe, and discovered that, the 2150´s original pump drive gear, that pale plastic thing WILL work with the 346´s clutch drum. They have worked now for months. The splines are thinner in 346 drum, than the grooves in the 2150 pump gear , so theres a small slack&gap, but so far, not a problem of any kind.
 
Bumping this thread since I'm not the only one with a saw from this series in need of repair. :D
 
I picked up a 2149 not long ago with a 44mm jug but not an open port. The jug is identical to the 2150, just smaller bore. I know its the original jug cause I know the guy who bought it new. I picked up this one because of the mag case and lack of a riser block to leak down the road. I was frowned on by a few for removing the divider in the riser but Husqvarna must have felt it was not needed because it is not on any of the mag cases. I later realized that the divider in the start of the transfers, that is on the riser was made that way to match up with the open port jugs. I had a box of jugs given to me and matched one up. I think they just never changed them because they were lowering the power anyway and it would no doubt cost more to change. I have learned a lot since the 2150 builds last year, due to this site and a local dealer that likes to grind on saws in his spare time, but I still have a way to go.

Don't let this thread go dead guys, its a good one.
 
I picked up a 2149 not long ago with a 44mm jug but not an open port. The jug is identical to the 2150, just smaller bore. I know its the original jug cause I know the guy who bought it new. I picked up this one because of the mag case and lack of a riser block to leak down the road. I was frowned on by a few for removing the divider in the riser but Husqvarna must have felt it was not needed because it is not on any of the mag cases. I later realized that the divider in the start of the transfers, that is on the riser was made that way to match up with the open port jugs. I had a box of jugs given to me and matched one up. I think they just never changed them because they were lowering the power anyway and it would no doubt cost more to change. I have learned a lot since the 2150 builds last year, due to this site and a local dealer that likes to grind on saws in his spare time, but I still have a way to go.

Don't let this thread go dead guys, its a good one.

I believe you regarding the 44mm closed port 2149, as it isn't the first one I heard of. However, I don't think there are that many of them out there, likely something they did right before deciding to go 45mm and 353/2152 instead?

Do you have the serial number of that saw?
 
I picked up a 2149 not long ago with a 44mm jug but not an open port. The jug is identical to the 2150, just smaller bore. I know its the original jug cause I know the guy who bought it new. I picked up this one because of the mag case and lack of a riser block to leak down the road. I was frowned on by a few for removing the divider in the riser but Husqvarna must have felt it was not needed because it is not on any of the mag cases. I later realized that the divider in the start of the transfers, that is on the riser was made that way to match up with the open port jugs. I had a box of jugs given to me and matched one up. I think they just never changed them because they were lowering the power anyway and it would no doubt cost more to change. I have learned a lot since the 2150 builds last year, due to this site and a local dealer that likes to grind on saws in his spare time, but I still have a way to go.

Don't let this thread go dead guys, its a good one.
First I have heard of a 44mm closed port , very interesting ! Bet that could be a rare one !!
 
SawTroll
Here is the serial # 02 1900 121. The numbers above the serial are 966 09 04 00 (part # I assume). I assume it is an 2002 built saw. It was bought new in 2004. Does that help shed some light on the closed port 2149....
The squish is now at .019inch and runs awesome. I had my spare HDA 199 on it but ran waaayyy too rich and couldn't lean it out, so I need to put the new kit in it just like I had to with the others, but it still runs very good with the factory walbro on it. Doesn't quite have the balls my 254xpg with MM has, but its not that far off. It makes my 445 xtorq look like a girly saw. (wish I never bought that one but I guess that discussion belongs in another thread.
 
2002 week 19, so another late one (if it wasn't the same one that appeared in another thread?). Anyway, it fits with my little theory about them being late production/experimental. That 44mm closed port never made it into an "official" model.

That "part number" is the part number for the complete powerhead (also called "item number").

.019" sounds fine to me, but there isn't a lot of margin left.
 
I never posted the serial # before and the old fella that had it since new would not be interested in doing something like that. I did see another mention a 2002 closed port in another thread a few weeks ago, so we can be sure its not a 1 off saw. I was thinking that the closed port 2149 was the jonny version of the OE346, but from what I read, that was a different jug all together.
 
Surely it was different, the OE346xp cylinder was 42mm/45cc vs. 44/49.4cc for this one, and made and ported in a different way by Mahle.

The 351/2149 was the original "budget" version of the 346xp/2147, and replaced as such by the 353/2152 late 2002. ;)
 
im gonna have to look into some of this. I also have a 340 that has been a great little saw for the last 7 or 8 years and runs just as well now as it did when i bought it. that said, i wouldnt say no to a little more power...
 
IMG_0369_zps76614424.jpg
Here's a look at my 350 hot rod innards
 

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