Husqvarna 340/345/350 Jonsered 2141/2145/2150 Information

[SawTroll]

OEM is the ONLY way
The after market p/c things are a joke.
....

I basically agree, but there are/have been a few AM ones that can be made very good runners by an expert on porting etc. Those are the exceptions though, and repeatability can't be trusted, as production (usually) is inconsistent.

 

[Superdude]

Thanks fellas.
To be honest I was hoping to hear "yeah go for it, they work well for what they are" haha.

So the aftermarket really isn't that great eh?
My understanding from my mate who I'm getting the saw off of (works at the local Husqvarna shop) was that for the price of a new genuine piston and cyl, I would come close to actually buying a proper 2nd hand 346.
I havn't gotten actual prices though.

May just try and get the most out of the existing setup first before heading down this road.

I'm willing to clean the ports up a bit, but I've only got a dremel with basic attachments, but not willing (at the moment) to mess with port timing and size.

 

[Mattyo]

Aus prices may be different....but over here as of Jan 1 oem cylinder prices have come down far enough to make the aftermarket nearly irrelevant.

What cylinders can you get in AUS? and for what kind of $$??

 

[Superdude]

I'll have to get back to you on what's available and their pricing, but he hinted high prices.
Australian prices are usually quite a bit higher than the US (and other places).

It'll be nice if they are indeed cheap enough to justify.
It is after all, 95% used for fire wood, and would be nice if it could reasonably run an 18" bar or so.
Running a 15" on my brothers Rancher 40 at the moment and it's about it's limit it seems but always seems to be just that little bit too short.

 

[Mattyo]

my 350's can run 20" bars...but I prefer them at 16" ...and mine are heavily modded.

for your purpose, oem will likely be the way to go, but depending on availability in AUS ...it may be cost prohibitive. If you can ship stuff easily from the US, then thats different.

 

[Superdude]

A 16" would probably be enough actually, but an 18" would do the majority a lot quicker.
Biggest we fell is around 2' or so in diameter.

The other use of the saw will be clearing trees and such over tracks when we're going off road.

Issue with buying stuff from the US at the moment is our weak dollar and shipping costs.

 

[Full Chisel]

My 350 with the ported 44.3mm top end is aftermarket from weedeaterman and that thing runs like a banshee. It has held up well so far with about 10 tanks of fuel through it. It also has the tree monkey modified HDA199 carb. That saw is no joke!

 

[Kyler Monares]

Subscribed! Awsome thread

 

[Mattyo]

DO NOT USE LOCTITE 515 OR 518 for the bearing cup to chassis union for 350s.

I'll have a video coming soon....I've rebuilt a dozen 350s at least and just had a failure directly related to the bearing cup seal. metal to metal is good....metal to plastic is nogo....

@Tor R was right

 

[Mattyo]

I'm trying threebond 1184 for the bearing cup...I think it'll be better.


515 518 works fine for base gasket replacement or on the intake rubber....but no good against the plastic chassis.

Gonna have proof too in vid form...


I dont remember the thread where tor mentioned it was ng against plastic....sorry tor...

 

[svk]

Subscribed. My 350 will finally be coming to life in the next week.

 

[Mattyo]

I should have the video done saturday....stay tuned

 

[beavis331]

Just bought a roached pair of 350s on eBay! Thinking of OEM 353 p&c kits. I see Bailey's has them for $110. Anyone have a better source?

 

[Mattyo]

Yes...use the oem 346XP kit...105.shipped from @spike60

 

[SawTroll]

Yes...use the oem 346XP kit...105.shipped from @spike60

Absolutely!

 

[Mattyo]

The oem 350 kit has one advantage, its got removable transfer covers to allow for fiddling with the ports without having to buy right angle handpieces. ie, a dremel tool works fine for porting that particular kit. all else being equal, the oem 346xp kit stock is likely best.

 

[Mattyo]

Oh, and fedex fudged up my shipping... their site says the new piston kit for my 350 is still in Florida since the 23rd... odd. called fedex, was on hold for a while, now they are calling me back. we'll see if it even shows up. anywho, I don't have a verdict yet on the sealer... but i'm pretty sure 1184 is going to be the ticket for the bearing cup ... NOT 518 or 515. 518 or 515 are fine for base gasket ... metal on metal is ok.

 

[Mattyo]

Here it is!

518 vs 1184

 

[redunshee]

Here it is!

518 vs 1184

Did you have to use a cylinder gasket due to squish number or do you normally use one. I typically don't. Just curious. I also use Dirko and it seems to work well.

 

[Tor R]

DO NOT USE LOCTITE 515 OR 518 for the bearing cup to chassis union for 350s.

I'll have a video coming soon....I've rebuilt a dozen 350s at least and just had a failure directly related to the bearing cup seal. metal to metal is good....metal to plastic is nogo....

@Tor R was right

we had quite a bit discussion on another forum, I hoped it should not give one airleak but I feared it would.
Hopefully it was only the piston you had to swap and that you could fix the cylinder Matt