Husqvarna 340/345/350 Jonsered 2141/2145/2150 Information

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I'd honestly go with that kit or the 44.3 346 kit. I'll be doing a thread soon hopefully on a build I'm doing for someone. It's going to be a 346 44.3 kit from Randy. Saw should be here in the middle of the week.

Looking forward to that.

You have a link to that kit please?

Thanks

Eric
 
Those saws likely are the best "homeowner class" chainsaws ever made! :msp_wink:

I do not have the disdain for Stihl homeowner saws as you. However, at a group cut this spring my friend had me try his stock 350. I was very impressed. It was way more than I expected for a homeowner saw with .325. New experiences is how we learn.:msp_biggrin:

The only thing that slowed it down in 12-20" wood was jaming the drive and bar sprocket with chips from the green wood. Is this common? We were using new chain, and cleaning the bar with a carpet knife.
 
I do not have the disdain for Stihl homeowner saws as you. However, at a group cut this spring my friend had me try his stock 350. I was very impressed. It was way more than I expected for a homeowner saw with .325. New experiences is how we learn.:msp_biggrin:

The only thing that slowed it down in 12-20" wood was jaming the drive and bar sprocket with chips from the green wood. Is this common? We were using new chain, and cleaning the bar with a carpet knife.

It's clogging the clutch or sprocket? If it's the sprocket your chain may have been a smidge loose.
 
Great thread and thanks for the reminder about replaceing the carb boot clamp. Is the replacement part from a 346 or do you just use a standard hose type clamp from an auto parts store?

Also on the 350 muffler bolt problem, I safety wired my friends Husky 350. He had a drill press so it was easy.
 
Great thread and thanks for the reminder about replaceing the carb boot clamp. Is the replacement part from a 346 or do you just use a standard hose type clamp from an auto parts store?

Also on the 350 muffler bolt problem, I safety wired my friends Husky 350. He had a drill press so it was easy.

There are metal clamps used on most professional saws. You can find one that works at your local dealer.

And thank you. I'm not the most knowledgeable person here but I'm trying to help.
 
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I have an OE 346xp´s 42mm cylinder in my 2150, without cylinder gasket, as well as gutted muffler with bigger outlet, and a clutch from 346 with 8 pin sprocket. Its not a beauty but it sure beats the stock 2150, as well as gasketless muff-modded stock cylinder 2150. All i had to do...kind of....was to grind a deeper groove, to the cylinder sleeves outer wall to make sure the impulse goes to the carb, as in my stock 2150, the pulse line is in inner wall of cylinder, combination of groove and drilled hole unlike in 346 jug.
 
It's the open port 49 cc top end. Your bore size should be 44mm. All the sticker means I'm guessing is that there was an over lap between the two models and the parts do swap. The epa closed port is a 45mm bore size. I'm probably not making any sense at all. I'll try to find some more information on this for you as I'm not as familiar with the 2149.

The 2149 is the Husky 351 - with the magnesium case of the 346xp, but the same open port 44mm/49.4cc top end as the non-EPA 350/2150.

The 351/2149 was replaced by the 353/2152 after a few years.
 
I have an OE 346xp´s 42mm cylinder in my 2150, without cylinder gasket, as well as gutted muffler with bigger outlet, and a clutch from 346 with 8 pin sprocket. Its not a beauty but it sure beats the stock 2150, as well as gasketless muff-modded stock cylinder 2150. All i had to do...kind of....was to grind a deeper groove, to the cylinder sleeves outer wall to make sure the impulse goes to the carb, as in my stock 2150, the pulse line is in inner wall of cylinder, combination of groove and drilled hole unlike in 346 jug.

Saw your thread about that. That's the first time I've seen the OE swap because of giving up displacement. Have a video yet? Saw looks good hope we can see it run
 
.....

The only thing that slowed it down in 12-20" wood was jaming the drive and bar sprocket with chips from the green wood. Is this common? We were using new chain, and cleaning the bar with a carpet knife.

Not very common, but it surely can happen, as with all saws.
 
Saw your thread about that. That's the first time I've seen the OE swap because of giving up displacement. Have a video yet? Saw looks good hope we can see it run


Video ?

Well if you mean that its uncommon to switch a smaller jug in to place of bigger, well thats how it all went. As 2150 has an open port and (IMO) different caharcter due to port shapes/sizes and timings, i think it was worth loosing the displacement, as the saw turned in to more raw this way, more high end power than 2150. Why i put an 346OE, was simply because it was laying on the shelf without any use :msp_rolleyes:
 
The 2149 is the Husky 351 - with the magnesium case of the 346xp, but the same open port 44mm/49.4cc top end as the non-EPA 350/2150.

The 351/2149 was replaced by the 353/2152 after a few years.

And then the NE 346XP would be pretty much equal to 2153.
 
Video ?

Well if you mean that its uncommon to switch a smaller jug in to place of bigger, well thats how it all went. As 2150 has an open port and (IMO) different caharcter due to port shapes/sizes and timings, i think it was worth loosing the displacement, as the saw turned in to more raw this way, more high end power than 2150. Why i put an 346OE, was simply because it was laying on the shelf without any use :msp_rolleyes:

I wasn't dogging you just said it was uncommon. I know the OE 346 runs better. Just asking to see how it turned out.
 
I've been reading along with this thread and am interested. I've been thinking about picking up 40cc saw and see that the 340/2141 is just that. I also noticed that all of the saws listed appear to be the same weight, is this the case? If I was to go this route, then it seems that the bigger would be the better, but then I get a saw that is getting to close to my MS 361 (59cc). What's a decent 2141 go for these days? Would I be better off going with the newer 2240?
 
I've been reading along with this thread and am interested. I've been thinking about picking up 40cc saw and see that the 340/2141 is just that. I also noticed that all of the saws listed appear to be the same weight, is this the case? If I was to go this route, then it seems that the bigger would be the better, but then I get a saw that is getting to close to my MS 361 (59cc). What's a decent 2141 go for these days? Would I be better off going with the newer 2240?

The 2240 replaced our 2238 and hasn't been bad but isn't the same design as these saws.
 
I've been reading along with this thread and am interested. I've been thinking about picking up 40cc saw and see that the 340/2141 is just that. I also noticed that all of the saws listed appear to be the same weight, is this the case? If I was to go this route, then it seems that the bigger would be the better, but then I get a saw that is getting to close to my MS 361 (59cc). What's a decent 2141 go for these days? Would I be better off going with the newer 2240?

The 350 is a tad heavier than the 340 and 345 (metal handlebar) - but it is a very minor difference.

The 2240 is a smaller and lighter built saw, but also has less power than the 2141.
 

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