Husqvarna 340/345/350 Jonsered 2141/2145/2150 Information

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I have a pile of these to build. Was thinking of a start to finish video. Enough interest and I'll invest the time.
 
I have a pile of these to build. Was thinking of a start to finish video. Enough interest and I'll invest the time.

i'd like to see that, not that i'm not capable to do this job by any means, but i must admit i've still not done one, and would like to see it from those that have done several before just "diving in"..................;)
 
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I have a pile of these to build. Was thinking of a start to finish video. Enough interest and I'll invest the time.

I think it'd help a lot of folks on here. You started me out on these by showing me one time. So its your fault I like them so much
 
You're missing your blow down and your transfers seem a little high. But that's no big deal if you cut your squish those will come down a degree or two. Leave the intake alone since you've already widened it, raise your exhaust to 104*. The trick with these is not how much you take out its where you take it from. Match the riser to the jug in the transfer area you need torward the intake some maybe 2mm. Be careful not to take too much or you'll loose charge velocity/ throttle response. Get a 346 boot remove the sleeve add a walbro 199 and poke a hole in the muffler and you'll have a nice running saw.

thanks moody for sharing your info with me:bowdown:
 
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Loco
:msp_lol:Now that's some funny stuff right there!
 
I put a 359 into my 350!

http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/214853.htm

It isnt too easy to do but it sure is fun to run.

I just wanted to show you all the potential of these saws. I think that these saws are the best homeowner saws ever made. Even the open port 44mm cyls run hard when properly built. Id take a 350 over a 346 anyday!:msp_wink:
 
I've owned a J-Red 2150 for ~6 years; my second one. A while ago, it started running rich, bogging while cutting and generally performing poorly. Adjusting the mixture didn't help. I looked it over - nothing loose, missing or maladjusted. Pulled the muffler to look at the cylinder - still nicely cross-hatched from the factory hone. Piston and ring are good. Hmmm...

This one has the reusable air filter, which looked clean, but I brushed it anyway. No change. While I had the top cover of, I ran it a bit. Then, I tried it with the air filter off - Whoa! Took the filter to the laundry sink and really cleaned it with strong detergent and hot, hot water. Dried and installed.

The thing runs and cuts like a "scalded cat"!! My new saw is back.

I wrote all that so that I could write this: Just because the filter looks clean, doesn't mean that it is.

This was my main firewood saw - and still is for the smaller wood. I recently bought a new Husky 576XP for bigger stuff, but the 2150, even with an 18" B&C, is a pretty strong - and inexpensive - non pro saw.

Jon
 
I've owned a J-Red 2150 for ~6 years; my second one. A while ago, it started running rich, bogging while cutting and generally performing poorly. Adjusting the mixture didn't help. I looked it over - nothing loose, missing or maladjusted. Pulled the muffler to look at the cylinder - still nicely cross-hatched from the factory hone. Piston and ring are good. Hmmm...

This one has the reusable air filter, which looked clean, but I brushed it anyway. No change. While I had the top cover of, I ran it a bit. Then, I tried it with the air filter off - Whoa! Took the filter to the laundry sink and really cleaned it with strong detergent and hot, hot water. Dried and installed.

The thing runs and cuts like a "scalded cat"!! My new saw is back.

I wrote all that so that I could write this: Just because the filter looks clean, doesn't mean that it is.

This was my main firewood saw - and still is for the smaller wood. I recently bought a new Husky 576XP for bigger stuff, but the 2150, even with an 18" B&C, is a pretty strong - and inexpensive - non pro saw.

Jon

I tend to clean my flocked filters with brakekleen and blow them out to get the spit back oil out of them!!

Very good point there Jon. Glad u mentioned it. :msp_biggrin:
 
I tend to clean my flocked filters with brakekleen and blow them out to get the spit back oil out of them!!

Very good point there Jon. Glad u mentioned it. :msp_biggrin:

Brake kleen works on everything:rock: you get my message ?
 
I tend to clean my flocked filters with brakekleen and blow them out to get the spit back oil out of them!!

Very good point there Jon. Glad u mentioned it. :msp_biggrin:
I've wondered about this. I'm not sure if the filter material is any different between the J'red/Huskies and my Stihl MS 361 (sorry to mention that awful name in this J'red/Husky thread:bowdown:), but my filter has got the spit back oil on it with the caked on saw dust, and it doesn't move even with 120 psi compressed air. Have you noticed any breakdown of the filter material using break clean? Lord knows I've got plenty of that kicking around.
 
I haven't had any issues with it.

For anyone this thread helps just leave us a comment with your issue and what you got from this thread that resolved it.
 
I've wondered about this. I'm not sure if the filter material is any different between the J'red/Huskies and my Stihl MS 361 (sorry to mention that awful name in this J'red/Husky thread:bowdown:), but my filter has got the spit back oil on it with the caked on saw dust, and it doesn't move even with 120 psi compressed air. Have you noticed any breakdown of the filter material using break clean? Lord knows I've got plenty of that kicking around.

Dishwashers works great!
 

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