Husqvarna 353 - at a loss here, need help

[ColinNS]

Check the flywheel key. If the nipple has broken it will still spark but won't run. I have had that happen three times. And once in a push mower. It's very frustrating, so now I check the flywheel first

 

[MartDalb]

Check the flywheel key. If the nipple has broken wm still spark but won't run. I have had that happen three times. And once kn a push mower. It's very frustrating, so now I check the flywheel first

Done, nothing wrong i'd say, see pictures.

 

[MartDalb]

Check to see if the flywheel key is sheared and check the spark arrestor screen to see if it’s plugged up

Done, both things. Saw has not seen nearly enough use time, but did check arrestor and muffler itself. Thanks.

 

[MartDalb]

The OP is in Denmark so I doubt he has our ethanol issues.

I am still interested in the melted intake...........OP.......do you think the melting came from engine heat or chemical reaction to fuel or additives in the fuel?? I'm having a hard time seeing a saw get so hot as to melt the intake boot and manifold without toasting the piston.........your piston looks mint.....used mint...but mint.....

Yeah, we do have ethanol issues, I do however only use Stihl Motomix, or Aspen2 premixed. Never gas station fuel, since we run 10% ethanol now as well.
How this manifold and plastic clamp part has melted like this? The only way to explain is heat, what else is there?
I rechecked both parts and they are OEM husqvarna parts, with part numbers etc on them.

I have no idea what this saw was run on fuel wise, but seeing the piston and cylinder is "mint" like this, and I did smell the fuel tank, it was newer "premixed" fuel for sure.

I just ordered the manifold and clamp part + a better version of the metal boot clamp, not a fan of those without a screw tension.
I am not sure if I should just go ahead and get myself that AM coil + carburator, it will be atleast 3 weeks delivery on those 2 parts, as they ship from Luxemborg Europe to me in Denmark (from China first ofcourse...)

I truly appriciate all the awesome feedback and tips everyone!

 

[Wood Doctor]

Here's my shop-made screw tensioner that I made for a Husky 350. I used the OEM that snapped and saved it with a #6 machine screw and nut. My assembly has been working fine for three years:

But, it was never burned up like the one OP shows here. I have no idea how MartDalb's got that hot.

 

[MartDalb]

Here's my shop-made screw tensioner that I made for a Husky 350. I used the OEM that snapped and saved it with a #6 machine screw and nut. My assembly has been working fine for three years:
View attachment 1002761
But, it was never burned up like the one OP shows here. I have no idea how MartDalb's got that hot.

That looks solid!
I went the easy way and ordered a 588 77 55-02 clamp.
No, I have no idea either, i'll shoot an idea.
....
The clamp/manifold was not sealing correctly, and over time it got worse, perhaps they ran the saw with airleak, it got ultra hot and it burned? (but why is the piston then in "mint" condition?)

It's either that or someone just spild acid right down on it...

 

[Wood Doctor]

That looks solid!
I went the easy way and ordered a 588 77 55-02 clamp.
No, I have no idea either, i'll shoot an idea.
....
The clamp/manifold was not sealing correctly, and over time it got worse, perhaps they ran the saw with airleak, it got ultra hot and it burned? (but why is the piston then in "mint" condition?)

It's either that or someone just spild acid right down on it...

Or, it could be a propane torch was too close, but why a torch would be used on a cylinder assembly seems really odd. Regardless, excess heat or a mean chemical reaction likely caused the damage. Accidents do happen.

 

[MartDalb]

Or, it could be a propane torch was too close, but why a torch would be used on a cylinder assembly seems really odd. Regardless, excess heat or a mean chemical reaction likely caused the damage. Accidents do happen.

Yeah, now here is me hoping that this is the main problem with the saw, and I don't have to order an AM carb + coil.
What's your take...should I wait or just order those AM parts?

 

[rob066]

The OP is in Denmark so I doubt he has our ethanol issues.

I am still interested in the melted intake...........OP.......do you think the melting came from engine heat or chemical reaction to fuel or additives in the fuel?? I'm having a hard time seeing a saw get so hot as to melt the intake boot and manifold without toasting the piston.........your piston looks mint.....used mint...but mint.....

oops on the op location

 

[Wood Doctor]

Yeah, now here is me hoping that this is the main problem with the saw, and I don't have to order an AM carb + coil.
What's your take...should I wait or just order those AM parts?

One thing at a time. Wait on both the carb and the coil. By ordering too many parts you usually spend more and collect a bunch of spare parts.

 

[MartDalb]

One thing at a time. Wait on both the carb and the coil. By ordering too many parts you usually spend more and collect a bunch of spare parts.

True.... Been there and done that, sadly too much.
I will put it all back together and test it with the manifold/clamp replacement.
If that doesn't help, I will order the AM parts - but will have to wait 3 weeks after that.


Just put a Stihl HS56 hedge trimmer back together, only to find, on the last step, that seller did not inform me the blade gear was worn out completely, and had worn out the blade rollers as well......not my day/days

 

[Wood Doctor]

Hedge trimmers are in a class by themselves. I fixed an Echo hedge trimmer last week and by some miracle, the only major thing wrong was the carb being clogged up and needing a tune up. This machine also needed a complete clean up, the throttle cable was messed up, it failed to idle, the blades needed a lube, but the gear drive was fine. Some times you (and the owner) luck out.

 

[MartDalb]

Hedge trimmers are in a class by themselves. I fixed an Echo hedge trimmer last week and by some miracle, the only major thing wrong was the carb being clogged up and needing a tune up. This machine also needed a complete clean up, the throttle cable was messed up, it failed to idle, the blades needed a lube, but the gear drive was fine. Some times you (and the owner) luck out.

Sounds good!
Wish I could say the same. Lately I seem to stumble upon machines that are good looking on the outside, but has the worst issues inside (aka. most expensive fix).

As a side note, and this should actually top any other annoying machine lately.
I did find a crazy cheap (near free) Stihl MS361, which was sold because owner could not get it to idle without chain running.
Turned out it was 3 new springs on the clutch, It's on my shelf now waiting for winter times.

 

[a. palmer jr.]

My problem as of late is that there has been more than one problem with the saws. The customer usually says it was fine to start with then it quit and I couldn't get it started again..the last one like this needed a new module, spark plug, de-comp and fuel line and filter..

 

[Wood Doctor]

My problem as of late is that there has been more than one problem with the saws. The customer usually says it was fine to start with then it quit and I couldn't get it started again..the last one like this needed a new module, spark plug, de-comp and fuel line and filter..

Sounds familiar. I'm surprised the carb still worked. De-comps get bent a lot and lose their seal. fuel filters clog up, spark plugs lose their gap, and ignition modules conk out. We run into everything. Frankly, I am surprised that my repair record is as successful as it is.

 

[a. palmer jr.]

Sounds familiar. I'm surprised the carb still worked. De-comps get bent a lot and lose their seal. fuel filters clog up, spark plugs lose their gap, and ignition modules conk out. We run into everything. Frankly, I am surprised that my repair record is as successful as it is.

I bought an extra carb in case it didn't work. Since it did I'll use it on mine. I didn't take the limiters off the customer's saw but maybe I should have. I think I took mine off long ago and the one I bought didn't have limiters.. As far as records go, I got my Super XL going today, it needed a carb, so I'm kind of on a roll!

 

[cookies]

I would inspect the flywheel and coil gap, leave the flywheel off for a pressure/vac test of the case, carb and fuel tank/hoses after the boot/clamp comes. I would add a new oem ring to the parts order since its apart.

 

[MartDalb]

My problem as of late is that there has been more than one problem with the saws. The customer usually says it was fine to start with then it quit and I couldn't get it started again..the last one like this needed a new module, spark plug, de-comp and fuel line and filter..

That sounds like an expensive repair honestly. In this country we pay premium for authorized repairs from shops.

 

[MartDalb]

I would inspect the flywheel and coil gap, leave the flywheel off for a pressure/vac test of the case, carb and fuel tank/hoses after the boot/clamp comes. I would add a new oem ring to the parts order since its apart.

Will check hoses and do a pressure test as well, why not right? thanks

 

[MartDalb]

Sounds familiar. I'm surprised the carb still worked. De-comps get bent a lot and lose their seal. fuel filters clog up, spark plugs lose their gap, and ignition modules conk out. We run into everything. Frankly, I am surprised that my repair record is as successful as it is.

It's funny, I have never had to replace a faulty coil, except for 2 cases.
Once I smashed one because I didn't check it was not firmly seated.
And then on a Stihl MS261 Mtronic, which is the worst ever....
perhaps I just need to repair more machines