Husqvarna 353 - at a loss here, need help

[a. palmer jr.]

I know at least one of my little Homelite XL saws is gonna need a module because I can get just a little bit of spark out of it, nothing like it should be. Of course these saws are around 40 years old..

 

[9050LX]

I would inspect the flywheel and coil gap, leave the flywheel off for a pressure/vac test of the case, carb and fuel tank/hoses after the boot/clamp comes. I would add a new oem ring to the parts order since its apart.

.

Here's my shop-made screw tensioner that I made for a Husky 350. I used the OEM that snapped and saved it with a #6 machine screw and nut. My assembly has been working fine for three years:
View attachment 1002761
But, it was never burned up like the one OP shows here. I have no idea how MartDalb's got that hot.

I have glued the intake manifold on a 345 with threebond, one or two days to dry.Got tired of buying metal intake clamps, and for a 30 dollar saw. The thing absolutely rips, lol.

 

[MartDalb]

I know at least one of my little Homelite XL saws is gonna need a module because I can get just a little bit of spark out of it, nothing like it should be. Of course these saws are around 40 years old..

yeah 40 years, sheesh. I've only had a few arond the age of early 30s. Too much work have to be done on those, but sometimes probable worth it. They don't make stuff like they used to, that is for sure!

 

[MartDalb]

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I have glued the intake manifold on a 345 with threebond, one or two days to dry.Got tired of buying metal intake clamps, and for a 30 dollar saw. The thing absolutely rips, lol.

Glued, really?
Perhaps mine was victim of a failed "diy" fix with heat, as mentioned before by @Wood Doctor. Heat and plastic clamps..... goes bad together

 

[9050LX]

Threebond 1194. Grey, sticky, spiderweb messy. Dries like rubber.Won't ever come off again in one piece.

 

[MartDalb]

Threebond 1194. Grey, sticky, spiderweb messy. Dries like rubber.Won't ever come off again in one piece.

If it works, that's kinda cool.
Especially with these Husqvarna prices....

 

[9050LX]

Nothing works to bond better than threebond, maybe 3M 5200 but doubt its rated for heat.

 

[Chevboy0167]

I have been getting new boots and partitions with this Husky clamp on all the 350's I been bringing back from the dead...

 

[MartDalb]

I have been getting new boots and partitions with this Husky clamp on all the 350's I been bringing back from the dead...

View attachment 1003512

That is the kind I like to use as well. Seen too many of the others go bad, sit weird etc.
Solid stuff right there!

 

[MartDalb]

Luck has it, I found another 353, bought it cheaply and waiting for it to arrive.
Hoping I can do some swap over and test out, get em both going in the end

 

[Wood Doctor]

Or, you can save one just for parts to keep the other one running. Cheap 353 saws that run are hard to find and the prices for parts keep going up all over. My boneyard has become a small gold mine.

 

[9050LX]

Just saw a 346 with an 8ten bar and chain for only 500 dollars, FB Marketplace. Clever Chinese. 8Ten almost does look like Stens!

 

[MartDalb]

Got her put back together, will test tommorow.
Had a bad time setting the manifold/intake plastic part correctly with the cylinder fitting, took me a while and tries.
I have not spend many hours on Husqvarna saws, so this is a really good learning experience for me.

I may even pop everything off the other one I have incoming, just to get better and see how it is piston/cylinder wise.
Seller told me, it needs a carb kit and some cleaning, but as always I expect there to be more to it, than what "a seller" tells me. I got it cheap, looks intact etc.
I know buying something from purely pictures is.... a chance, but I wanted those parts for testing and price was more than fair.

I really hope it runs, but I honestly doubt it, I'd wager it has issues with the carb and/or coil.

Oh and I removed that "trio brake" what on earth is that thing even meant for............?!

 

[MartDalb]

Update. Yeah not running, still same issue.

Will swap coil and carb as next step.
Whenever I get that other 353.

 

[MartDalb]

Update.

Got the other 353.

Swapped the coil, and we have a runner.

So I will order an am coil and get both going. So Nice!

Thanks everyone for helping out!

 

[Wood Doctor]

It never seems to amaze me at how many problems with 2-cycle engines are electrical in nature. I just fixed an Echo CS-355t that had a lazy coil. Cleaning the flywheel, the wire connection, and the coil contacts near the gaps fixed it. I detected the problem by checking the spark plug (removal and jumper wire). Lots of crud gets to that coil and sometimes that alone will shut it down.

 

[MartDalb]

It never seems to amaze me at how many problems with 2-cycle engines are electrical in nature. I just fixed an Echo CS-355t that had a lazy coil. Cleaning the flywheel, the wire connection, and the coil contacts near the gaps fixed it. I detected the problem by checking the spark plug (removal and jumper wire). Lots of crud gets to that coil and sometimes that alone will shut it down.

I must really not do enough, besides my 261Mtronic, I have not seen a defective coil, this was weird behaving...sputter og sprung when trying anything, but some spark it had apperently.
I do, however, mostly, see mistreated parts, especially expensive plastic parts and clutches, clutch drums, sprockets etc.
More often than not, it is not from heavy use, but people being idiots with their saws....

 

[Wood Doctor]

I must really not do enough, besides my 261Mtronic, I have not seen a defective coil, this was weird behaving...sputter og sprung when trying anything, but some spark it had apperently.
I do, however, mostly, see mistreated parts, especially expensive plastic parts and clutches, clutch drums, sprockets etc.
More often than not, it is not from heavy use, but people being idiots with their saws....

This past spring I fixed a Husqvarna 261 that had been used a lot and had so much junk clogging the ignition coil that the engine would not shut off. It was not entirely the coil's fault. It was the connection to the kill wire that failed because of crud all over the place near the flywheel that had gotten past the housing. I'm surprised that a mud dauber did not fly out when I removed the rewind cover. The wire connections to the coil are just as important as the coil itself.

 

[9050LX]

Is that in/out or side to side?Sloppy needle bearing?I have (6) of this series saw and all the coils are reliable.First thing I do is clean all the packed sawdust from the flywheel/coil l when I get them.If your 353 has a metal intake clamp its probably leak-free.I would compression test and examine the piston through the exhaust port before disassembly. When reassembling the carb to manifold,be gentle with the torque as you can strip out the manifold female threads.

 

[MartDalb]

Is that in/out or side to side?Sloppy needle bearing?I have (6) of this series saw and all the coils are reliable.First thing I do is clean all the packed sawdust from the flywheel/coil l when I get them.If your 353 has a metal intake clamp its probably leak-free.I would compression test and examine the piston through the exhaust port before disassembly.

Saw has been fixed, just added this little side note about clutch play. Did not want to start a new topic, might have to though

This is "side play, within the clutch, not on crank shaft or drum.