Husqvarna 365sp cant get running lots of kickback when pulling

[loudjosh81]

quick update, I just pulled the fuel line (from the tank) and sure enough I have gas coming out of their when i pull it over, and I have gas in the cylinder, with none leaking around the carb so i know its at least on a path from gas tank to piston/plug.

im going to open the air gap a little more right now (its easier than pulling the flywheel) and has been suggested so why not.

if that proves to be fruitless i will pull the flywheel to verify my keyway is still in tact (i cant imagine it sheared, but i have no idea as of yet)

thanks for the suggestions. its much appreciated. Hopefully this can help someone down the line.

josh

 

[huskihl]

I know it’s been said before, but it sounds flooded to me

 

[John Stryker]

i did a pressure test (on the carb) and a cylinder leak down test and it held air pressure just fine.
Ive never had to use anything to prime a saw before. On rare occasions after an engine rebuild (with motorcycles only) i have to use some juice to get things moving the first time, but saws its never been an issue.
i adjusted the carb to the extreme on both adjustment screws and was able to get it to idle (sort of) but it wouldn't rev enough to even hurt a piece of paper.

Maybe you don't know this, but a pressure/vacuum test sometimes needs to be done on the crankcase of a 2-stroke. If there is any leakage, you will not be able to get enough of a pulse to operate the carb fuel pump to supply sufficient fuel. You can also apply a vacuum to the fuel line to test it for leaks ( if you get bubbles mixed will the fuel, seen through a clear fuel line, you know there is a crack in the fuel line.)

 

[9050LX]

Isn't there a nipple and rubber line for impulse? Can't remember.

 

[John Stryker]

i did a pressure test (on the carb) and a cylinder leak down test and it held air pressure just fine.
Ive never had to use anything to prime a saw before. On rare occasions after an engine rebuild (with motorcycles only) i have to use some juice to get things moving the first time, but saws its never been an issue.
i adjusted the carb to the extreme on both adjustment screws and was able to get it to idle (sort of) but it wouldn't rev enough to even hurt a piece of paper.

Are there limiters on the carb jets? Also, if you adjusted them to the extreme, it may be getting too much fuel to run well. Maybe try setting to the recommended initial factory settings (H 3/4, L 1 1/2)

 

[Brushwacker]

2 easy things I would double check.
Spark Plug gap, .020, also a different known good spark plug if u haven't already.
Good impulse line connected correct.
After that is confirmed right I wouldn't waste any time not pulling the flywheel, checking the key and position of the flywheel on the crank shaft. And make sure your ignition coil is the right 1. I would check the flywheel for defects also.

 

[Homer6679]

Why not just crank down the idle adjustment screw so that it is forced to idle? You mentioned earlier about adjusting BOTH screws to the extreme but nothing about the idle adjustment. Set the H and L screws to factory setting and crank down the idle adjustment more than it should be. It should at least run, then do some carb tuning from there. That should rule out the carb as an issue or not assuming the internals of the carb are all good

 

[loudjosh81]

I promise its not gratuitous spamming of my youtube! this is just way easier for me to share it.
i believe my problem is the key. the flywheel looks like its also "out of round" on the top. i think im going to be in the market for a new flywheel and a key. i suspected this may have been the culprit.
Ill update again as soon as I get the parts.

thanks again!

josh

 

[loudjosh81]

2 easy things I would double check.
Spark Plug gap, .020, also a different known good spark plug if u haven't already.
Good impulse line connected correct.
After that is confirmed right I wouldn't waste any time not pulling the flywheel, checking the key and position of the flywheel on the crank shaft. And make sure your ignition coil is the right 1. I would check the flywheel for defects also.

I just pulled the flywheel and uploaded my a video. It was the flywheel. Ill be getting a new key and most likely a new flywheel.

 

[loudjosh81]

Why not just crank down the idle adjustment screw so that it is forced to idle? You mentioned earlier about adjusting BOTH screws to the extreme but nothing about the idle adjustment. Set the H and L screws to factory setting and crank down the idle adjustment more than it should be. It should at least run, then do some carb tuning from there. That should rule out the carb as an issue or not assuming the internals of the carb are all good

I did just about everything I could with the carb, including a new one. maxed idle, maxed high and low screws, etc. . I just uploaded a video and it appears my problem was with the flywheel/key. Ill be sourcing new to replace what looks like an "out of round" flywheel and a sheared key.

 

[9050LX]

Could use a piece of copper wire the correct size for a keyway and torque it down 20 or so ft/lbs. Instant verdict.Its gotta run one way or the other. I have a farmertec carb that adjusts to 1/2 turn out on the high side, just in case you try to set it at 1 turn out. Mine ran pig rich at one turn out.

 

[John Stryker]

I promise its not gratuitous spamming of my youtube! this is just way easier for me to share it.
i believe my problem is the key. the flywheel looks like its also "out of round" on the top. i think im going to be in the market for a new flywheel and a key. i suspected this may have been the culprit.
Ill update again as soon as I get the parts.

thanks again!

josh

Those flywheels have a molded key that is part of the flywheel. You may be able to re-use that flywheel if you can position it to the original spot and tighten down the nut. The nut should hold it in position once it's tightened down.

 

[loudjosh81]

After a few phone calls to local parts shops, the determination has been made to just buy the cheapest flyhweel and a key and swap it out. Based on the age and and condition and all that, spending the 150-175 on a husky flywheel just doesn't make sense (it has sentimental value, not actual value, if thats ok)

i should have an answer by this weekend (if the usps doesn't drop the ball) and ill update my findings then.

again, thank you for the help!

 

[loudjosh81]

Could use a piece of copper wire the correct size for a keyway and torque it down 20 or so ft/lbs. Instant verdict.Its gotta run one way or the other. I have a farmertec carb that adjusts to 1/2 turn out on the high side, just in case you try to set it at 1 turn out. Mine ran pig rich at one turn out.

the inside of my flywheel is melted? theres no groove left for a key of any sort to go into but i am 100% positive this is the issue, and for 20$ and 4 days wait time its totally worth it.

thanks for the tip on the farmertec carb. im hoping my walbro will be good, as im trying to keep as many original parts as possible but sometimes i guess it cant be helped!

 

[Bjorn T]

https://www.farmertec.com/Husqvarna...place-OEM-537-05-16-05-537051605-p226675.html

 

[Titanman]

i didn't have any reason to take the flywheel off to rebuild the top end. I didn't have any reason to expect bottom end issues. (sort of unrelated to saws, but im a motorcycle mechanic and rebuild a load of bike engines, so i applied some of that know-how to checking the crank) no air leakage on a cylinder leak down test and no appreciable play in the rod tells me the crank is most likely ok.

The timing is only lining up the key? As soon as I get to the garage ill pull the flywheel and check that its all ok. Ill post back what I find.

Had a crack in my flywheel where the woodruff key was sheared off and let the flywheel slip. Felt like the timing was off and wouldn't fire. It kicked back very hard when trying to start.

 

[loudjosh81]

I know it’s been said before, but it sounds flooded to me

its not. its a sheared key on the flywheel. i posted a video/explanation. i think its on the first page.

 

[loudjosh81]

Had a crack in my flywheel where the woodruff key was sheared off and let the flywheel slip. Felt like the timing was off and wouldn't fire. It kicked back very hard when trying to start.

thats exactly what happened with this. I posted a short video a couple hours ago. (page 1?) the flywheel key sheared off and actually bonded to the flywheel. so i have a new flywheel and key coming. should have it this weekend (if the usps doesnt drop the ball)

 

[loudjosh81]

https://www.farmertec.com/Husqvarna...place-OEM-537-05-16-05-537051605-p226675.html

this is the one i ordered. thanks!

 

[loudjosh81]

Those flywheels have a molded key that is part of the flywheel. You may be able to re-use that flywheel if you can position it to the original spot and tighten down the nut. The nut should hold it in position once it's tightened down.

i considered it, but i can't even see inside the flywheel where it was supposed to be. its in pretty bad shape from rubbing around without the key doing its job