Husqvarna 365sp cant get running lots of kickback when pulling

[loudjosh81]

Maybe you don't know this, but a pressure/vacuum test sometimes needs to be done on the crankcase of a 2-stroke. If there is any leakage, you will not be able to get enough of a pulse to operate the carb fuel pump to supply sufficient fuel. You can also apply a vacuum to the fuel line to test it for leaks ( if you get bubbles mixed will the fuel, seen through a clear fuel line, you know there is a crack in the fuel line.)

yeah ive had to do this before. I was only not looking at fuel being the issue because of the nasty pull back i was getting. not starting (the way it was) is one thing, but it was the pull back i was focused on. I knew it was timing but just didnt know anything past that point (if that makes sense)

 

[9050LX]

Let us know.

 

[ZeroJunk]

Might not be a bad idea to take some lapping compound and clean your crank shaft taper up some.

The key certainly helps hold it, but it's mostly the metal to metal taper contact.

Chances are the saw was revved up some and the chain brake locked and spun the flywheel.
Stihl went to polymer flywheels on larger saws for weight of course, but also issues with just the centrifugal force of a large aluminum flywheel.

 

[loudjosh81]

Might not be a bad idea to take some lapping compound and clean your crank shaft taper up some.

The key certainly helps hold it, but it's mostly the metal to metal taper contact.

Chances are the saw was revved up some and the chain brake locked and spun the flywheel.
Stihl went to polymer flywheels on larger saws for weight of course, but also issues with just the centrifugal force of a large aluminum flywheel.

thats a pretty good suggestion, i will for sure (the lapping)
my dad has seized it at some point, and then after it sat for 1-2 years on the shelf he forget that it was seized and took it to cut, gave it a hard pull and she started right up. I think that was the moment the flywheel key sheared and the timing progressively got worse. i cut with it, like this, for two seasons. every time I cut it was running worse and worse and i was just chalking it up to old age, dirty carb, worsening compression, etc. .. .

I'm excited for the new flywheel to get here and be able to put the saw back into rotation
thanks for the help!

 

[loudjosh81]

Let us know.

absolutely!

 

[huskihl]

The key is part of the flywheel. It’s aluminum and it’s stuck into the keyway on the crank. You’ll need to pick/tap it out and scrape the smeared aluminum off the rest of the taper on the crank to install the new flywheel.

You can’t lap the new fw to the crank as the key is part of the fw. You don’t want to lap the old fw to the crank and then install a different fw. Just make certain the crank is completely free of aluminum before installing the new fw

 

[Brushwacker]

You should have a good work saw soon. 365 Special is 1 of my favorite Husqvarnas. The 372 I had was a lemon for me and i had a brand new 55 that was worse. The 365 I have now I bought to sell but it feels and treats me very well, sips fuel, pulls a 24inch bar well, so I don't plan on it leaving my lineup of worksaws for a long time. To me it feels a bit easier handling then a 372 but I never compared them head to head. I know they aren't to far from identical.

 

[Mr Excitement]

If the saw just had a worn piston/ring, then I'd bet that your original cylinder is still good, and all you needed was a new piston and or ring.
The OEM cylinder is way better than whatever you replaced it with.

 

[028S038AV]

Kickback tells me it could possibly be the coil failing.

Wrong Quote... the flywheel key removal and set was the quote.... cannot remove the quote above???



I agree, your spark time is off, late or early
Take the flywheel off and ck condition of the key and assemble
Sudden stop, torque, can change the location, maybe it was assemble w/o the key
You are unsure of the history.

Here is a electronics coil... no points to consider.....
https://www.lilredbarn.net/Husqvarna-365-Special-2005-05-Ignition-Coil-and-Chip-s/49818.htm
Would be a better saw with electronic spark.... contact them to see if fit, look at your flywheel and note how many magnets you have .... written info on link states there are different ones. That maybe you issue also.

Compression test is important for 2 stroke... need min 120psi and could be up to 150-160
Take the coil off, or ground the spark plug wire to the body with a alligator clip or similar
No discharge can build up heat in coil windings from lack of discharge location
No mention of compression

There are also spark test lights that INLINE with the plug & coil... the flash of light shows if you have a good spark. One of the posters suggested the coil, maybe slow in generating spark or bad. Takes some time to develop the spark energy of 20K-22K range and then the points allow the discharge. This could be. Not a fan of points. The discharge is set by the gap in points the gap is set with a feeler gauge. I do not know what you gap should be. The coil to fly wheel magnet :gap" is set with a business card between and then tightened up. The mount is the coil ground and should not be painted should be bare metal. I also use a bit of copper anti seize so it does not get oxidation and keeps ground.

Can by pass the carb by putting 1/4 to 1/3 tsp of mix directly into the cylinder and pull then.

The most telling statement..... When trying to start the saw the pull cord pulls out of my hand.
This is the time of the saw, set by the flywheel key
Take off the flywheel and reset the key

 

[samaritan]

I dont mean to insult you, but is the fuel filter clean, and fuel lines in good shape?

 

[loudjosh81]

Had a crack in my flywheel where the woodruff key was sheared off and let the flywheel slip. Felt like the timing was off and wouldn't fire. It kicked back very hard when trying to start.

oh this thing kicks back hard. ever three or full pulls its a hand breaker. I dont think it shows it much in the video, namely cause of how i pull it, but it sucks. you can hear it briefly when it backfires as well.
I really cant wait to get the new flywheel and get back to cutting

 

[9050LX]

oh this thing kicks back hard. ever three or full pulls its a hand breaker. I dont think it shows it much in the video, namely cause of how i pull it, but it sucks. you can hear it briefly when it backfires as well.
I really cant wait to get the new flywheel and get back to cutting

Had a Suzuki TM-400 2stroke motorcycle (briefly) that would do foot damage(kick-starting) if not careful!

 

[Titanman]

thats exactly what happened with this. I posted a short video a couple hours ago. (page 1?) the flywheel key sheared off and actually bonded to the flywheel. so i have a new flywheel and key coming. should have it this weekend (if the usps doesnt drop the ball)

Awesome that it's figured out. Husqvarna's are known for this.

 

[Titanman]

oh this thing kicks back hard. ever three or full pulls its a hand breaker. I dont think it shows it much in the video, namely cause of how i pull it, but it sucks. you can hear it briefly when it backfires as well.
I really cant wait to get the new flywheel and get back to cutting

Double check the timing marks are the same when you get the new flywheel. Different years had different timing marks.

 

[loudjosh81]

Had a Suzuki TM-400 2stroke motorcycle (briefly) that would do foot damage(kick-starting) if not careful!

oh i had the same with an xr600. . .i still have a limp from it!

 

[loudjosh81]

Ok, so i put the new flywheel on, and she started about the third pull (had to prime the carb) and I cut through a tank of gas with extreme pleasure!

so much thanks for pointing me in the right direction! you guys are a treasure!

(fwiw, the saw now has: new cylinder, piston/rings, muffler, rebuilt original carb, new flywheel, new coil, plug, wires, starter switch, new fuel lines. all in all a fairly simple/cheap way to keep an old saw up to the task)

 

[Titanman]

Ok, so i put the new flywheel on, and she started about the third pull (had to prime the carb) and I cut through a tank of gas with extreme pleasure!

so much thanks for pointing me in the right direction! you guys are a treasure!

(fwiw, the saw now has: new cylinder, piston/rings, muffler, rebuilt original carb, new flywheel, new coil, plug, wires, starter switch, new fuel lines. all in all a fairly simple/cheap way to keep an old saw up to the task)

Awesome

 

[9050LX]

oh i had the same with an xr600. . .i still have a limp from it!

Xr600, position slightly past tdc on compression and a half hearted attempt will start it, unless the stator coil is failing.my favorite all time play bike.