husqvarna 460 rancher porting and muffler mod

[Andyshine77]

Hopefully I'll be able to get some good pictures and get them on here for you guys tomorrow. Also have a pic of the muffler mod I just finished on my poulan. Only a 36cc 14" bar but that little thing screams

Pics always help. From looking at the IPL for the carb, it does appear you may need to remove or cut off the plastic retainers. http://www.hsqintec.sk/vykres/455e460-09.pdf

 

[sawobsessed85]

Thank you Andyshine, looking at that diagram just made my life alot easier. So i have to take off that black cover/tube which is #11 on page 15, then it looks like the limiters are #42 on page 29. they look to be aluminum. Best way of removing metal limiters like this??? According to the owners manual these saws are really restricted by the EPA and are supposed to be retuned after break in, approximatley 10 hrs. So i break it in, do the muffler mod, remove the limiters.... Do you recommend going from where the screws are set now or from scratch, being the typical 1 1/2 to 2 turns out from seated? And just for conformation, set the L, then Idle, than H. Needs to 4-stroke slightly free rev and clean up totally in wood

Thank You

 

[sawobsessed85]

I tried marking the black tube, but it didnt turn out. its right by the heatshrink by the middle of that blue wire.

 

[Andyshine77]

That piece of rubber is just there to keep dust out and to help guide the screwdriver to the needle, remove that and you will see what you need to do from there.

 

[sawobsessed85]

Thats what i figured that it was just a guide for screwdriver. So what is your suggestion on tuning when time comes, go from where its set now or start from new setting?

 

[Andyshine77]

Well for you I'd say tune it from where it is. Do you have a tachometer? or a local dealer with one? You'd likely be OK if you open up the high 1/4 of a turn, but that's not guaranteed.

 

[sawobsessed85]

I do not have a tachometer but want to pick one up. How much do they usually cost? I'd like to get a lil more rpm from where its at now if possible, is that where dialing the Low in to as high as it will go but with good response still comes in? I know every saw is different and I've been reading some like it up around 14,500 and others are running at prime around 11,500 or 12,000. I can say that right now at full free rev it does not 4 stroke. I'm assuming because its still at factory settings

 

[jropo]

You can make the mods very easy if your not confident on grinding on your own jug. You should use the degree wheel, but you can hack this mod.

The muffler mod - those three mounting tubes that the muffler bolts go in can be converted to outlets. The best mod is to drill in from the outside and open the tubes up on the side opposite the exhaust port, that will keep the muffler quieter. Then you weld/braze a patch on the outside of the muffler where you drilled in.

The cheap and nasty way and which will make the muffler fairly noisy, is to just reach through the exhaust port opening and grind the holes in the tubes.

Also open up the existing opening as much as is reasonable. Finished the muffler mods.

Now the trick of porting without grinding - use the piston. Remove one of the transfer covers and watch when the strato cutaway appears over the bottom of the transfer port opening. Now look at the intake port, it will still be closed. Start trimming the back of the piston skirt until the intake port opens the same time as the strato port. You are finished with the intake mods.

Mount the degree wheel and watch your exhaust timing. Trim the edge of the piston at the exhaust opening so that the exhaust opens two degrees earlier.

Or, nip .5mm off the edge of the piston and call it good. Finished with all mods. Bolt it all back together and re-tune, cut wood.

If you screw it up, all you have to do is buy a new piston.

EDIT: To raise the compression ratio a little bit, purchase a Champion RCJ6Y plug, cut the gasket off of it, make a thin gasket from a beer can. Install.

OP

Search n Read.
Then do it again until this ^ makes sence to you.
You should be grateful for him to.........walk you through a port job?:msp_confused:

 

[sawobsessed85]

I am very greatful. Thanks for all the info an input. BTW, heres a pic of that mod i did on my Poulan. She screams pretty good now. Cuts 10 times faster than my buddy's MS210. That thing is a POS

 

[El Quachito]

How about an airfilter mod. I cleaned mine for the first time today, (new saw), and it's a lot of plastic and not very much filtering material. Anybody know of an aftermarket filter that will fit this saw?

 

[GoBigBlue1984]

You can make the mods very easy if your not confident on grinding on your own jug. You should use the degree wheel, but you can hack this mod.

The muffler mod - those three mounting tubes that the muffler bolts go in can be converted to outlets. The best mod is to drill in from the outside and open the tubes up on the side opposite the exhaust port, that will keep the muffler quieter. Then you weld/braze a patch on the outside of the muffler where you drilled in.

The cheap and nasty way and which will make the muffler fairly noisy, is to just reach through the exhaust port opening and grind the holes in the tubes.

Also open up the existing opening as much as is reasonable. Finished the muffler mods.

Now the trick of porting without grinding - use the piston. Remove one of the transfer covers and watch when the strato cutaway appears over the bottom of the transfer port opening. Now look at the intake port, it will still be closed. Start trimming the back of the piston skirt until the intake port opens the same time as the strato port. You are finished with the intake mods.

Mount the degree wheel and watch your exhaust timing. Trim the edge of the piston at the exhaust opening so that the exhaust opens two degrees earlier.

Or, nip .5mm off the edge of the piston and call it good. Finished with all mods. Bolt it all back together and re-tune, cut wood.

If you screw it up, all you have to do is buy a new piston.

EDIT: To raise the compression ratio a little bit, purchase a Champion RCJ6Y plug, cut the gasket off of it, make a thin gasket from a beer can. Install.

Do you mind posting any pictures to help explain what you mean by opening the port holes up from the inside?

Thanks a bunch

 

[Terry Syd]

I don't have any pictures, but if you take the muffler off the saw and look into the muffler you will see the three tubes. Just reach inside the muffler and grind a hole/vent in the side of the tubes so the exhaust gas can exit out the front of the tube.

Doing the muffler mod this way will tend to make the muffler a lot louder than if you drill in from the sides of the muffler and put the openings/vents on the side of the tube opposite the exhaust port.

 

[Husqavarna Guy]

I don't have any pictures, but if you take the muffler off the saw and look into the muffler you will see the three tubes. Just reach inside the muffler and grind a hole/vent in the side of the tubes so the exhaust gas can exit out the front of the tube.

Doing the muffler mod this way will tend to make the muffler a lot louder than if you drill in from the sides of the muffler and put the openings/vents on the side of the tube opposite the exhaust port.

Hey Terry can you explain removing the spark plug gasket and how it raises the compression ratio? Does it make that much difference? Thanks

 

[Terry Syd]

The Champion plug has a thicker body for the threads and the nose projects a little further than say a NGK BPMR7A plug. Both those things will slightly decrease the combustion chamber volume and raise the compression. The plug is 1/2 colder heat range than the NGK and hasn't caused any fouling problems in my saws. Without the base gasket it decreases the volume of the combustion chamber further by the amount of the thickness of the gasket times the area of the plug.

Some fellows have tried using compression gauges with and without the gasket and have noticed that there is a fair bit of increase in the compression without the gasket - the smaller combustion chambers being the most to benefit. It works, but don't expect any WOW factor like you might get with a pop-up piston.

 

[Husqavarna Guy]

The Champion plug has a thicker body for the threads and the nose projects a little further than say a NGK BPMR7A plug. Both those things will slightly decrease the combustion chamber volume and raise the compression. The plug is 1/2 colder heat range than the NGK and hasn't caused any fouling problems in my saws. Without the base gasket it decreases the volume of the combustion chamber further by the amount of the thickness of the gasket times the area of the plug.

Some fellows have tried using compression gauges with and without the gasket and have noticed that there is a fair bit of increase in the compression without the gasket - the smaller combustion chambers being the most to benefit. It works, but don't expect any WOW factor like you might get with a pop-up piston.

So what happens if you remove the gasket from the NGK plug? Any benefit?

 

[Terry Syd]

Yes, you will get a small bump in compression. The concept is the same no matter what plug you use.

If you're looking to get some more power out of the 460, the muffler mod and the piston mods will give you the most significant increase in power.

 

[GoBigBlue1984]

Thanks Terry for the information, I'll try the muffler mod and plug/gasket trick and let ya know how it turns out.

 

[Adam08ski]

You can make the mods very easy if your not confident on grinding on your own jug. You should use the degree wheel, but you can hack this mod.

The muffler mod - those three mounting tubes that the muffler bolts go in can be converted to outlets. The best mod is to drill in from the outside and open the tubes up on the side opposite the exhaust port, that will keep the muffler quieter. Then you weld/braze a patch on the outside of the muffler where you drilled in.

The cheap and nasty way and which will make the muffler fairly noisy, is to just reach through the exhaust port opening and grind the holes in the tubes.

Also open up the existing opening as much as is reasonable. Finished the muffler mods.

Now the trick of porting without grinding - use the piston. Remove one of the transfer covers and watch when the strato cutaway appears over the bottom of the transfer port opening. Now look at the intake port, it will still be closed. Start trimming the back of the piston skirt until the intake port opens the same time as the strato port. You are finished with the intake mods.

Mount the degree wheel and watch your exhaust timing. Trim the edge of the piston at the exhaust opening so that the exhaust opens two degrees earlier.

Or, nip .5mm off the edge of the piston and call it good. Finished with all mods. Bolt it all back together and re-tune, cut wood.

If you screw it up, all you have to do is buy a new piston.

EDIT: To raise the compression ratio a little bit, purchase a Champion RCJ6Y plug, cut the gasket off of it, make a thin gasket from a beer can. Install.

Terry, I know this is an ancient post but does this apply to a 455 Rancher, got one for less than I think $50 if my exchange rate is good. Never ported this way, usually get the grinder out on the closed transfer port saws I have (254 and 038 mag). This seems like a good idea.

Thanks,

Adam

 

[Terry Syd]

Yep, the 455/460 is the same engine design.

 

[bruce4afe]

When u say nip .5mm off of piston do you mean all around or just exhaust side