Husqvarna 55 to Stihl?

[Ryan'smilling]

Can you adapt a Stihl bar to your Husky?

That's kinda my plan. But even there, I'm finding difficulty. The Stihl bar on my 261 is a 3003 mount (aka d025), and a lot different than the k095 on the husky. The 3005 mount (a074) is pretty close, but there isn't a 67 DL bar in that size. They make a 3005 68 dl bar that they call 18". So, I'm either gonna plop down $37 for the oregon version of that bar (stihl wants almost $50) in hopes to modify it so I can share loops, or I'm gonna just buy some loops from Dsell here on AS that'll fit the Husky. Decisions, decisions.


Sorry for the derail, OP.

 

[Ted Jenkins]

Are you suggesting that nobody has ever run a 058 chain in a 050 bar? I think that is weird. I do not have a saw smaller than 60cc but it should not matter. When my bars get a little loose I run the next size chain. You should take your grinder and ream the bar just a bit and then stick your chain in it and go. To change from 050 to 058 is not even a hour of effort. Yeah it will smoke for a few minutes and then get back to cutting wood. Thanks

 

[svk]

That's kinda my plan. But even there, I'm finding difficulty. The Stihl bar on my 261 is a 3003 mount (aka d025), and a lot different than the k095 on the husky. The 3005 mount (a074) is pretty close, but there isn't a 67 DL bar in that size. They make a 3005 68 dl bar that they call 18". So, I'm either gonna plop down $37 for the oregon version of that bar (stihl wants almost $50) in hopes to modify it so I can share loops, or I'm gonna just buy some loops from Dsell here on AS that'll fit the Husky. Decisions, decisions.


Sorry for the derail, OP.

I've heard rumors of .050 gauge .325 bars from Canada. They're not available down here, unfortunately. I'm in the middle of trying to figure out how to run 67dl .325 pitch .063 gauge loops on my husky 350, or at least be able to share a different loop. I'm having a hard time. Apparently there's no such thing as a .063 gauge K095 bar for the husky, and there's no .050 bars for the Stihl.

Food for thought:

I have a visually good but "worn out" K095 .325 .058 (66DL) bar that came on a saw I bought. Will not cut straight with a .058 chain but with a feeler gauge it measures a consistent .065 through the rails which is about the same measurement of what a brand new .063 bar would measure. I would be happy to do some horse trading with you (perhaps a jar of maple syrup) if you were interested after you tried it out of course. One DL difference usually does not matter as long as there is still travel in the adjuster.

Or for the Stihl 025 pattern you could buy a .050 3/8 bar and then swap the nose to .325.

 

[Ryan'smilling]

Food for thought:

I have a visually good but "worn out" K095 .325 .058 (66DL) bar that came on a saw I bought. Will not cut straight with a .058 chain but with a feeler gauge it measures a consistent .065 through the rails which is about the same measurement of what a brand new .063 bar would measure. I would be happy to do some horse trading with you (perhaps a jar of maple syrup) if you were interested after you tried it out of course. One DL difference usually does not matter as long as there is still travel in the adjuster.

Or for the Stihl 025 pattern you could buy a .050 3/8 bar and then swap the nose to .325.

That'd be awesome Steve!! Perhaps I could talk you into coming over and bringing that Miller mod 550 to run against my 350/346 and TM261...

 

[Brushwacker]

I personally do not know of anyone who makes .058 bars for Stihl because as you have pointed out, they normally are either .050 or .063. Not saying they might not be out there.

I have converted .050 bars to .058 after the groove was wore to that point. They will run to hot if its not loose enough fit.

You would probably be voiding warranties but I suppose you could take a large mount Husqvarna .058 bar and machine the bar slot larger to accept the larger Stihl studs.
I had a friend do several bars for me some years back. For some reason they all took 1 link less chains after it was done. They ended up 22" 75dl, 25"83dl , 28"92dl, all husky 009 mount to 025 stihl mount.

What you could do, (not positive the drive link count would or not change) this was posted on AS sometime back. Stihl has shoulders on the bar studs the bar fits over. You can grind or file the top and bottom off each stud so the 009 mount Husky will fit over it. If you want to go back to Stihl mount later the studs can be shimmed so that the sides which were not ground off are on top and bottom, or just replace the studs.

 

[svk]

That'd be awesome Steve!! Perhaps I could talk you into coming over and bringing that Miller mod 550 to run against my 350/346 and TM261...

That would be cool to do as well. Will be in touch when I come up in January.

 

[XP85648]

Here's my scenario that I would like input on- I've tried to research this more specifically, but can't seem to come to anyone with the proper experience...
My dad has a Husqvarna 55 saw- it's tired, and needs to be replaced- no he doesn't want to rebuild it. We used to have a pair of Husqvarna dealers close to us- one became a Stihl dealer, and the other closed. So looking at a Stihl now- which is fine with me, but need to discern a couple things. Currently we run a 20" bar with .058 3/8" chain. The Stihl dealer looked at me somewhat confused when I asked if could use my current chains. I asked about the gauge- they weren't sure and said they only sell .050. From what I have read that seems to be the standard for Stihl. My dad is the kind of guy who has never met a chain he isn't willing to try/buy. Read that as: I have about 15 chains for the Husqvarna that I would like to keep instead of starting a new collection. Looking to buy the MS 261 model. Dad liked the handle isolation and the compression relief start. Yes, I know that 20" is on the large side for that saw, but in reality we use the 20" bar more for reach than anything else- rarely do we have it buried for any significant amount of time.
So give me your thoughts- should I just put everything Husqvarna in a box and get rid of it? Can I buy an aftermarket bar for the stihl that would run .058? Can you provide a link for that or make a reccomendation on who/where to call? From the reading I have done the sprocket should work on both, and the same sharpening equipment would be used for both- do you agree?

Thanks in advance for your help.

Pete

Thank you to all who replied- to answer some questions....

-Not really looking at any other Husqy models as I no longer have a close dealer.

-I use a MS261 with a 3/8 .050 chain on the job sometimes- it's a good match for me- as stated I rarely am full cut, and neither is my dad. I do like the handle on that stihl- it is very noticeable on my hands which are not great- side affect of a car accident when I was a bit younger starting to show up. Side note- if you see a truck about to rear end you in the mirror don't tense up and grab the steering wheel. My grip has never been the same.

-No the saw has never been straight gassed or abused- no I haven't compression tested it. Currently the main problem is idling- I just can't get it to be consistent. Sometimes it's poor enough that you have to give it a little trigger to get it started- when running is fine. Have had various times where we thought was fixed only to encounter the problem again. Also needs new bar and sprocket. Before we started putting money into it- trying to figure out the most responsible way to do that. One dealer told me I couldn't afford the labor at the shop to fix it- they recomended new. Any suggestions on this? Or what brand carb to go back on with if that is all I need? I don't want to stumble around in the dark dropping 50 dollar bills until I find the light switch?

-Whats a saw like this worth- $150? $ 200 with the chains?

Thanks-Pete

-

 

[svk]

Sorry if this is a convoluted answer but it depends on the overall cosmetic condition of the saw, the compression reading/condition of piston, and if it runs well. Assuming it has an open port cylinder (more on that later), as a fixer upper they are $25-50 and as a runner I would say $100-200 is fair dependent on the variables I mentioned. Provided the compression is good and you want to take the time to clean up the carb and install a carb kit (about ten bucks) you could get a decent resale price. If you want to cut your losses and move on, again those variables will determine how much the saw is worth. I would probably sell the saw with your existing bar and a couple of good chains. Most recreational cutters will not want to pay extra to buy more than a couple extra chains. Sell the other lot of chains separately.

One other thing, if the piston and cylinder are good AND it is a closed port cylinder you will have no trouble selling it on here as the closed port saws are very desirable. I forget the markings off hand but I believe they are on the clutch side of the cylinder near the base.

Side note-unfortunately some dealers will tell you it's not worth fixing in hopes that you will buy a new saw on the spot from them. I traded for a Homelite that was in perfect condition that just needed a bar. Sleazy dealer told them they would "throw it away for them".