The 261CM vs. a 550Mk2 is close to a toss-up; but against the 550Mk1, I would go with the 261 for the larger/better air filter design .
Husqvarna 550XP Mkii OR Stihl MS 261 C-M
- Thread starter Witterings
- Start date
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I've had my 261 for 3 years now.
I had one single starting issue with it. When it was brand new, first tank of gas, I ran it out of gas in the middle of a cut. She didn't want to start back up. Pulled the spark plug out, pulled it over a few times, put it back together and it started up as normal. I've never had an issue since that I can recall.
I did get a bad taste in my mouth after buying the saw brand new, it felt down on power and sluggish. The one I ran before buying was broke in. And mine, after breaking in, is a ripper just like that one. The 550 I ran before buying was also broke in. Did not feel as powerful for whatever reason and did feel heavier in the hands.
I've done everything from a full day of limbing and bucking after a summer storm in rain, to a full day of falling/limbing/bucking 12-20" pines for a campground in the middle of winter here in Wisconsin. I have no idea how many hours I have on it, I guess I could take it in and find out, but she just plain runs. I knock the air filter out at every other gas fill because it's so damn easy to do with this cartridge. A new spark plug once a year and routine maintenance is all she's ever needed.
There was nothing 'wrong' per say with the 550 mkII. I just didn't feel as 'at home' with it as the 261. I have no regrets with that decision.
I 100% agree with the posters that say go cut with both of them if possible. If not possible to cut with them, at least hold both. There's no reason not to. I wouldn't personally buy a saw based on what some rando said on the internet.
Witterings
ArboristSite Member
@ farmer steve ...... It's probably how I wrote it but I meant that a year was a decent amount of time / usage .... you often get people commenting when they've just bought something or tried it at a dealers which doesn't really tell you how it last over a period of time and I tend to think if something's "bad" the issues will probably show up in the 1st 2 to 3 months so thank you for your input 
I did see your post 10 ... I guess I'm never going to do that level of work to a saw so if it's not the easiest to work on that becomes the dealers issue ..... I would however be concerned if a number of people were reporting the same failure that you've experienced and if it happened on a regular basis as I want a saw to cut wood rather than spending it's time in and out of a workshop.
How long had you had it for and how much had it been used before it failed .... I'm guessing it was out of warranty at that stage??
Thank you to all for their comments ... I think people mentioning I should try the feel of them both 1st is actually a very valid point and a dealer not that far away stocks them both so will try and get over to them to see what I think as there doesn't seem to be a lot between them.
I did see your post 10 ... I guess I'm never going to do that level of work to a saw so if it's not the easiest to work on that becomes the dealers issue ..... I would however be concerned if a number of people were reporting the same failure that you've experienced and if it happened on a regular basis as I want a saw to cut wood rather than spending it's time in and out of a workshop.
How long had you had it for and how much had it been used before it failed .... I'm guessing it was out of warranty at that stage??
Thank you to all for their comments ... I think people mentioning I should try the feel of them both 1st is actually a very valid point and a dealer not that far away stocks them both so will try and get over to them to see what I think as there doesn't seem to be a lot between them.
Witterings asked, "How long had you had it for and how much had it been used before it failed .... I'm guessing it was out of warranty at that stage?"
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I believe it was about two years old and used heavily by a tree-service company operator. Bad part was that it had a 20" bar mounted, and I firmly believe that was too much for it. Although as I inspected the cylinder and piston, the damage to me was either by (1) running lean or (2) straight gassing. There was nothing left of the rings on the exhaust side. Aren't the Stihl M-tronics supposed to almost eliminate running lean? There is no carb air-fuel mixture adjustment.
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I believe it was about two years old and used heavily by a tree-service company operator. Bad part was that it had a 20" bar mounted, and I firmly believe that was too much for it. Although as I inspected the cylinder and piston, the damage to me was either by (1) running lean or (2) straight gassing. There was nothing left of the rings on the exhaust side. Aren't the Stihl M-tronics supposed to almost eliminate running lean? There is no carb air-fuel mixture adjustment.
Derrick Sawyer
ArboristSite Guru
Dang 2 years in pro service isn't to bad, there is no cure for lean running by straight gas or mtronic, the electonics can only compensate so much for mechanicals.
That's what I figured. This worn out piston is a typical exhaust side straight gas, so I doubt that long-term struggle by the engine to pull the 20" bar caused the wear. The cylinder was still usable after some light honing. I figure this saw may have 200 to 300 hours on it.
Derrick Sawyer
ArboristSite Guru
Hell yeah , cheap fix, when u fix saws for fun, complicated or new models are better than easy fast fixes, more time in the garage drinkin and listening to classic rock
Witterings
ArboristSite Member
Cheers for that and some really usefull info to go with it ... I would have thought to drag a 20" chain all day everyday would be a lot for one of these and there are better saws out there for that purpose in the 60cc+ range.
I can't quite decide what bar sizes I'd be best off with .... the majority of the wood I'm cutting could probably get away with a 15" bar but tempted to get either 18 or 20" as well for occasional use ... that said 16" bar may be the happy medium meaning it'd be rare I needed to switch for a bigger bar and would maybe only add a 20" for anything the 16" can't handle ... ho hum ... decisions, decisions hey.
I could never have fixed this saw that way (music and booze), and it was not really for fun. I had to really study what I was doing and concentrate. Perhaps that's why it ran when I was done. Only then did I celebrate the success.
Timber MacFallen
ArboristSite Operative
The 20" narrow kerf I tested on the mark2 went through wood quicker than the 18" standard kerf on the Stihl. I wouldn't worry about length with a 4hp saw.
Usable bar size is not equivalent between the two brands due to the engine case design and mount points. If you prefer shorter bars 16" on Stihl and 18" on Husky (which is like a 17" Stihl).
I like a 20" bar because I'm 6"1 and it's easier to limb with and I have the flexibility to take on something larger if I don't have a bigger saw handy. The most popular size on 50cc at all the dealers I've visited though is 18" by far.
I have an mkii 550 and had the mki prior to that. I wouldn't buy another mki but would buy another mkii without question. The size/weight difference is probably noticeable to some, but it's a non-issue in my book. I ran 18" bars on both. I would not want a 16", but I think a 20" would have it's benefits.
sbhooper
Addicted to ArboristSite
The 16-inch bar runs great on my 260. I think that is the size that really makes that class of saw shine. It is easy to get too long of a bar on them.
Witterings
ArboristSite Member
Must admit this is probably what I'm most tempted with, it's less stress on the saw and will make for faster cutting when mainly used for bucking ... up until now I've got by with a 14" bar so 16" would be a step up and probably cater for most of my needs and if I need anything bigger would probably get the 20" for the occasional time I'd need it at some stage in the future.
Ol' Brian
ArboristSite Guru
550xp mkii in action... looks like it handles a 20 with authority. He's running either 3/8 lopro or .325 chain.
Timber MacFallen
ArboristSite Operative
Cotontop runs a Husqvarna H25 chain which is a .325", .058 gauge.
https://www.husqvarna.com/us/accessories/chainsaw-chains/h25-semi-chisel-325-058-gauge/591099078/
Ol' Brian
ArboristSite Guru
Thanks! I couldn't remember.
Witterings
ArboristSite Member
Went with the Stihl 261 with a 16" bar in the end and only used it in earnest for the 1st time since buying it this weekend ... early thoughts are what a great piece of kit and a huge step up from the "home saw" I was using before.
Cheers for everyone's help / input ... much appreciated
!
Cheers for everyone's help / input ... much appreciated
!
Ryan'smilling
Addicted to ArboristSite
Went with the Stihl 261 with a 16" bar in the end and only used it in earnest for the 1st time since buying it this weekend ... early thoughts are what a great piece of kit and a huge step up from the "home saw" I was using before.
Cheers for everyone's help / input ... much appreciated
It'll really impress you after you put a dozen or so tanks through it.
Witterings
ArboristSite Member
I have an original 550XP and love it. I ran a few tanks thru it and then sent it out for porting. It's been reliable and the first saw I grab these day. I do a ton of, start saw, make one cut and turn it off, or start saw, make a few cuts and off as well as a fair amount of bucking. I have replaced the recoil several times as it takes a ton of abuse with the extra compression from the porting job and all the start/stops I do. I've run a narrow kerf 20" but just prefer the standard 3/8 with 20". I like how snappy it is and how well it is balanced with a 20" bar.
