Husqvarna C/S

[trimmmed]

You will be undergunned with a 350 for bowl blanking. Ideally you want a bar length equal to the swing on your lathe, From the wood sizes you mentioned I would rec a 372XP or a 365.

 

[woodturner]

Originally posted by Mike Maas
Hey, I know where you might get a good deal on a Husky:

http://www.arboristsite.com/attach/10025.jpg

Hey, Mike, I think I've used that saw!

 

[woodturner]

Since reading this thread, I'm now considering these 3 saws, all Husky's. #350, #353, and #346XP. Which ever one I decide on, I suppose I could get 2 bars for it. One 18" & one 20". What would be wrong with that?

 

[woodturner]

Typhoon, or anyone else....

You said that the #346XP has a magnesium crankcase, and the #350 is plastic. I looked at the Husky website, but didn't see it mentioned. Is the #353 magnesium, or plastic?

Are all the larger Huskys above 353 magnesium crankcases?

 

[jokers]

Hi Woodturner,

Why bother with two bars so close in length?

Russ

 

[woodturner]

Originally posted by jokers
Hi Woodturner,

Why bother with two bars so close in length?

Russ

Good question. I guess I'm trying to justify my 350 choice. But, If I get the 353 or the 346XP, I'll definately get the 20". As I mentioned, the 350 is more in my price range. If it had the magnesium crankcase, I definately would go with it. Don't know if I should let it's plastic crankcase influence me that much or not?

I was looking at the NorthWest website and saw they offered the #350 with 18", or 20" bar. So, I gave them a call. I asked them if the 350 did indeed have enough power to pull the 20" bar. The answer given was Sure, if it wouldn't work, we would not be selling it with the 20" bar!

 

[woodturner]

Originally posted by bdenny
I have either used or owned all of the saws I recommended to you. If you really want the 20" and your limit is $300.00 I would get the 55r and switch to .325 chain. Otherwise, go with an 18" 350. They are both good saws. The 55 may last longer because of the metal crankcase but on the flip side the 350 is lighter, has a side chain tensioner, and does have a little less vibration. (It is noticeably smoother in the hands.) If you can swing $30 extra bucks or so, get the 353. Then you will have the best of both worlds.

Brent

I'm not sure I got your drift. What do you mean, get the 353for best of both worlds?

 

[woodturner]

Originally posted by hokiebob1
I have the 353 w/18" bar and it does well so far. Very smooth. I haven't buried the bar into real hardwoods yet, but buried in red maple, it does pretty well. I got mine online, free shipping for under $320.

Mind telling me where you purchased your 353? Thanks.

 

[jokers]

Hi again Wood Turner,

I don`t think that you will be disappointed if you buy a 350. Despite the fact that the 350 has construction more typical of homeowner saws, ie; a horizontally split crankcase, it is a good solid saw. It also has a unique feature for this type of construction in that it has a seperate cylinder rather than the cylinder and upper crankcase half being one piece. This could be important if you ever seize or otherwise wear out the saw.

What you might want to consider if you opt for the 350 with a 20" bar is the type of chain you run. The 95vp that will come standard on the saw is a low profile narrow kerf, small radius semi chisel .325 chain which will maximize the power of that saw. There are also NK chisel chains that will perform well on this combo. Don`t let anyone talk you into a chain with a bigger tooth.

Russ

 

[woodturner]

Originally posted by jokers
Hi again Wood Turner,

I don`t think that you will be disappointed if you buy a 350. Despite the fact that the 350 has construction more typical of homeowner saws, ie; a horizontally split crankcase, it is a good solid saw. It also has a unique feature for this type of construction in that it has a seperate cylinder rather than the cylinder and upper crankcase half being one piece. This could be important if you ever seize or otherwise wear out the saw.

What you might want to consider if you opt for the 350 with a 20" bar is the type of chain you run. The 95vp that will come standard on the saw is a low profile narrow kerf, small radius semi chisel .325 chain which will maximize the power of that saw. There are also NK chisel chains that will perform well on this combo. Don`t let anyone talk you into a chain with a bigger tooth.

Russ

Yeah, Hi Jokers,

Thanks for the response. This is exactly the type of feedback that I have been looking for, since I am completely ignorant on c/saws. This kind of answer will give me something to think about in making my decision. Once again, thanks!

 

[tony marks]

this fello sets his mind what he wants .. sk advice but is not easy deterred from his original goal.. i know a fella that way to a fault..good luck.

 

[bdenny]

353

I said the 353 has the best of both worlds because it is 52 ccs vs 49 for the 350 and it also has a magnesium crankcase. It is more in the same power dept with the 55 than the 350. It also has some nicer features than the 55 like side chain tensioner, quick realease top cover, and they spring style av mounts which are a little smoother than the old rubber ones like on the 55. After reading your intended use for the saw, I agree with russ as any of the mentioned saws will probably last you a long time with proper care. If you are going to get 2 bars, go with a 16 and a 20. Use the 16 for limbing and cutting small stuff and the 20 for those big trees and stump cuts. Also, like Russ said, stay with the 95 vp microlite chain if you get the 350. When I had mine, I tried four different chain types on it and the 95 was the fastest in nearly every situation. It also stays sharper much better if you find yourself ever cutting dirty wood.

Brent

 

[hokiebob1]

My 353 came from alamia.com, but southwest fastener has good prices - both had free shipping. I think it was $320 or so delivered.

 

[woodturner]

Anybody?

My 3 choices, 350, 353, 346XP, all have pretty much the same specs. With the 353 costing about $50 more. Not sure if it's worth the additional cost.

Is the 346XP a new model saw, as I haven't been able to locate a site that sells them, or find a price anywhere?

 

[woodturner]

Originally posted by jokers
Hi again Wood Turner,

I don`t think that you will be disappointed if you buy a 350. Despite the fact that the 350 has construction more typical of homeowner saws, ie; a horizontally split crankcase, it is a good solid saw. It also has a unique feature for this type of construction in that it has a seperate cylinder rather than the cylinder and upper crankcase half being one piece. This could be important if you ever seize or otherwise wear out the saw.

What you might want to consider if you opt for the 350 with a 20" bar is the type of chain you run. The 95vp that will come standard on the saw is a low profile narrow kerf, small radius semi chisel .325 chain which will maximize the power of that saw. There are also NK chisel chains that will perform well on this combo. Don`t let anyone talk you into a chain with a bigger tooth.

Russ

BTW, what does the 95 VP mean, regarding the chain, above?

 

[hokiebob1]

check out this link for 346xp info
http://www.southwestfastener.com/productsHusqChainsaw.htm
looks like its ~$350 for 18" bar, and 353 18" is $320.

As for the 95vp, I believe its an oregon chain type-apparently a low kick-back, low vibration, narrow kerf type.

 

[Ryan Willock]

95vp is .325 pitch low-vib/low kickback simi chisel chain. It is narrow kerf .325 and MUST be run on MICRO LIGHT bars other wise the bar is wider than the kerf. Its the ONLY simi chisel that cuts neck and neck with standard full chisel.

 

[Typhoon]

You will find that the 95VP chain is top notch! It is extremely fast, yet very smooth as well, and stays sharp for a long time cutting in dirty wood. Also regarding running it in a different bar: It is suggested that you should not run a narrow kerf chain in a regular kerf bar. However, im in the firewood business and run my saws many hours per day, so I wanted a bar that lasted longer than the factory laminated bar. Well, all of the high-end bar manufacturers do not make a narrow kerf type bar. Specifically GB. After talking to Jeff Sikkema and taking his advice, I have been running the 95VP narrow chain on a standard kerf GB Pro-Top bar for almost a year now and there is no difference at all. Believe me, you will find that it works great. I thought that the chain might be slightly sloppy or loose... its not at all. Just some info for those interested.
-Brad

 

[Typhoon]

Also I want to add, you would have better luck trying to wear out an anvil with a rubber hammer than trying to wear out one of these GB Pro-Top bars. After 9 months of cutting 3-4 hrs/day, I still show no signs of wear. My factory laminated bar was showing significant wear after 3 months. Great product.
-Brad

 

[woodturner]

95VP

Originally posted by Ryan Willock
95vp is .325 pitch low-vib/low kickback simi chisel chain. It is narrow kerf .325 and MUST be run on MICRO LIGHT bars other wise the bar is wider than the kerf. Its the ONLY simi chisel that cuts neck and neck with standard full chisel.

Is all .325 pitch chain, this 95VP chain, that ya'll have mentioned? The reason I ask, is at the Husqvarna website, and all the online websites that sell Husky saws, they don't mention anything about the 95VP chain. I went to these sites wanting to read up on the 95 VP chain. So, if I order a .325 pitch chain, will it be the 95VP chain?

Thanks,