Husqy 353 bar & chain thoughts

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IchWarriorMkII

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I'm currently looking at two b&c options strictly to 'play with' for my 353

First is a 16" b&c, a very practical and proven set up for this saw. What I'm curious is, how it will cut and run with the 2" shorter setup than whats on the saw now. I'm planning on running Arbor Pro NK bars and 20NK Woodsman Pro chain. Why? Mostly because its the lowest cost setup I can get, as this is strictly a trail basis. If I find it cuts significantly better, I will buy some extra loops and get a better NK bar. My other option is a 20" Arbor Pro NK bar, again mostly because of the price am I drawn to this bar.

Will the 353 drive a 20" NK b&c full comp? I'm sure with 'normal kerf' chains I would opt for a skip chain, however the narrow kerf setup makes me wonder if the smaller kerf would allow for the slightly longer b&c setup without skip chain. Since I cannot find, and assume nobody makes a skip NK chain my other option is to go with an Oregon/Husky bar and get normal kerf skip chain.

Unless someone has tried a 20" NK setup on a similar sized saw, I may give it a shot. However, if it has proven to be a poor match up for someone in the past, I will probably opt straight for the skip chain and try the NK setup some time in the future.
And naturally, Im not cutting any hardwoods...
 
I have that exact setup on my jonsred 2152 which is the same saw as yours with a slightly different handle. I bought the arborpro 16inch bar and two 20nk chains. They work awsome and sharpen up real quick, they don't hold an edge as long as a oregon chain but they cost alot less too. As far as putting a 20 inch bar on you saw I wouldn't bother unless you have alot of thick stuff to cut and no other saw to do it with, keep in mind it is only a 53cc chainsaw and isn't really designed for big thick stuff, although it will cut it in a pinch.
 
I have that exact setup on my jonsred 2152 which is the same saw as yours with a slightly different handle. I bought the arborpro 16inch bar and two 20nk chains. They work awsome and sharpen up real quick, they don't hold an edge as long as a oregon chain but they cost alot less too. As far as putting a 20 inch bar on you saw I wouldn't bother unless you have alot of thick stuff to cut and no other saw to do it with, keep in mind it is only a 53cc chainsaw and isn't really designed for big thick stuff, although it will cut it in a pinch.


Agree, except they are 51.7cc, not 53...:greenchainsaw:

I wouldn't want more than a 16" bar on any 50cc saw, except maybe the PS5000/PS5100S.
 
Jim, I do realize the 353 is not the first choice for a 20" bar but thats why Im just playing with it, not hoping to use it extensively.
 
353 bar & chain

I do occassionally run a 20" microlite and a 95vp chain which is basically the Oregon equivalent of what you'e looking at. Works surprisingly well for small limbing etc. I've never buried the bar in hardwood and wouldn't try. It depends on what you're doing with it.

On a related note, Husqvarna has a 3 position oiler on the 353. Do folks follow the manual ie low for 14-16 med for 16-18 high for 18-20 or do they run their oilers wide open all the time. Many threads on MS361's and others suggest people run those wide open.

Joe
 
I do occassionally run a 20" microlite and a 95vp chain which is basically the Oregon equivalent of what you'e looking at. Works surprisingly well for small limbing etc. I've never buried the bar in hardwood and wouldn't try. It depends on what you're doing with it.

On a related note, Husqvarna has a 3 position oiler on the 353. Do folks follow the manual ie low for 14-16 med for 16-18 high for 18-20 or do they run their oilers wide open all the time. Many threads on MS361's and others suggest people run those wide open.

Joe

I keep my oiler at max with 13", you can never have too much lube you nkow :rockn: :rockn:
 
If the bar is going to be buried, it would be in a soft cottonwood.

I maxed it out, its a little sloppy with the oil now, so I might go back to the 2nd notch.
 
353 oiler

That's what I found as well. This saw seems to oil very well. I leave it open with the 18" bar that is usually on it, but I just bought a 16" Microlite Pro and was thinking it could get overly oily. I guess I'll just play with it. Better a little too much than too little.

Joe
 
My recommendation is: Use the shortest bar you can!

On my 50cc saws (353 and 026) I use 13 inch bars. Shorter bar means:

- Maximum power through minimum losses in chain and bar.
- Cheaper chains
- Cheaper bars
- Lower weight!!!
- Quicker sharpening
- Easier storage of saw.

If you use it primarily for limbing, go for a short bar.
If you have to cut down big trees, use felling techniques where you get the job done with short bar. I have always wondered why everyone on AS use so long bars. Here in sweden, you rarely use over 15inch although some trees can be very large in diameter. Longer bar is safer when you fell big trees since you can use the traditional technique, so then you can use a longer bar if you're unsure.

Btw. congrats on a 353. It's a very nice saw.

/Peter
 
I keep my oiler at max with 13", you can never have too much lube you nkow :rockn: :rockn:

I use the middle position with the 15" bar, but that is with Husky Veg-Oil - with the previous "dino" oil I used, I had it maxed out, except when the weather was really warm.
 
My recommendation is: Use the shortest bar you can!

On my 50cc saws (353 and 026) I use 13 inch bars. Shorter bar means:

- Maximum power through minimum losses in chain and bar.
- Cheaper chains
- Cheaper bars
- Lower weight!!!
- Quicker sharpening
- Easier storage of saw. ...

I find the 13" bars rather annoying, as the saw is rear heavy, and there is no reach. Cutting from both sides when felling and bucking occur too often also, even for my Northern birches.

Quicker sharpening is an illution, as you will have to do it more often (more cutting for each cutter).

The only thing I have used those bars for the last few years, is carving bird cages........
 
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I use 13" and 15" NK bar's on my 2152, and 15" and 18" NK bar's on my 2159.
If you have to use a 20" bar, use it on a bigger saw :p
 
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I use 13" and 15" NK bar's on my 2152, and 15" and 18" NK bar's on my 2159.
If you have to use a 20" bar, get a bigger saw :p

To be honest, I don't think the .325 NK bars&chains is a good idea on the 2159, I believe "normal" bars with Stihl RS/RSC, and also Oregon 21LP, would perform better.....

I am basing this assessment on testing that an AS friend of mine did with a Dolmar PS5100S, which have about the same power - not on personal experience.
 
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To be honest, I don't think the .325 NK bars&chains is a good idea on the 2159, I believe "normal" bars with Stihl RS/RSC, and also Oregon 21LP, would perform better.....

I am basing this assessment on testing that an AS friend of mine did with a Dolmar PS5100S, which have about the same power - not on personal experience.

Why should a “.325 normal bar .058” be better then a “.325 NK bar .050” on the 2159 :confused:
My 2159 whit 15” or 18” NK .325 is cutting really well :rock:
 
I think the NK chain is designed for smaller saws with less HP. Surprised you are not breaking off cutters with NK on a 59cc saw.
 
I think the NK chain is designed for smaller saws with less HP. Surprised you are not breaking off cutters with NK on a 59cc saw.

Well, I understand that it maybe can be a problem, but I don't have run into that yet :eek:
And I'm thinking that the .325 normal, and the .325 NK is almost the same chain :confused:
If I start breaking off cutters, I change the setup in bar and chain :cry:
But it's cutting like a dream now.
 
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I have the Arborpro bar and 20nk on my 350, 18" bar. The saw pulls this quite well, even in oak, cut up to about 17" oak with it. I've been happy with this set-up, the chain stays sharp and is easy to sharpen, although I have had mixed results with the file 0 plate. The bar is a little flexy, but light.
 

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