Huztl FarmerTec 070 Build Thread with upgrade info and completed saw

Wesspur
Rugged made
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Wow this saw runs great. Milling videos coming next week. What a saw for $300 shipped. They have a sale going on thought the rest of the month to. Think my son is going to get an 070 and a 440.
 
(I just noticed some of the videos attached at the ate missing. They are all there. Some of the urls changed but are listed in the playlist.)

I spoke with goldy and asked about his experience in replacing the decomp. One thing to you new guys getting ready to build your kits, there has been very little to replace on the saw. I had trouble with my decomp and so ordered one and I showed it above. After talking with Goldy his experience leads me to strongly suggest that you replace the decomp before you place the cylinder.

This is the only saw in the kit line that has this type decomp. I am going on what he said and what I see now that I can look at it closely. Its a match to the huztl so they duplicated it. you dont spin it in as one piece. I will remove the eclip and the piston will fall out. You take a nice big bladed screwdriver and run the body in the cylinder and from inside the cylinder you use something to drop it back into the body (he used a pen magnetic) and then secure it with the circlip. Your saws health depends on the eclip.

So i have to remove the cylinder, means the carb and the muffler. so you can see where the best time for you to do it is before you assembly the thing. The metal of the oem looks very high quality and the eclip is as well. so thats a one and done deal. the saw overall is very high quality so something small like this is not a budget breaker and it sure is excellent insurance. these photos are more detailed. if i run into something i will say something.

I kinda forgot about this, on this first saw they sent out it had the original hex head cylinder bolts that have this huge head on them. That's what you see in the one photo. The kit had t27. Huztl sent out a hexhead tool in the tool pouch, but I ordered a 6" power driver 5mm hex head so I can use a 1/4" socket on it and get a good bite when i replace it.
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chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy
 
Does anyone know the difference between the two 36" Bar and Chains kits offered by Huztl?
 
What was the cost for the OEM Stihl decomp valve? I discovered early in my experience that the decomp valve was a problem. Mine came loose which caused me to be concerned. I would have tried to get a OEM, but could not find any body who either stocked it or would order it so ordered some from Germany. The ones I received were awesome. The circle clips fit well and are of high quality. I still discarded them to install a washer that was brazed. I am still delighted with the saw and want more. I have not committed to a MS660, 372XP or another 070. I have a rebuilt 075 which is similar to the 070 but would like another option. Thanks
 
Ted Jenkins said:
What was the cost for the OEM Stihl decomp valve? I discovered early in my experience that the decomp valve was a problem. Mine came loose which caused me to be concerned. I would have tried to get a OEM, but could not find any body who either stocked it or would order it so ordered some from Germany. The ones I received were awesome. The circle clips fit well and are of high quality. I still discarded them to install a washer that was brazed. I am still delighted with the saw and want more. I have not committed to a MS660, 372XP or another 070. I have a rebuilt 075 which is similar to the 070 but would like another option. Thanks
Click to expand...
The 660 is well worth building and with some part change out ever bit as good as oem.

I still have not done my 070 decomp change out. It was around $33 USA and they did have to get it from Germany. Took about 6 weeks

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy
 
"The 660 is well worth building and with some part change out ever bit as good as oem."

The 660 I like very much. It is powerful enough to actually cut some thing, but easily small enough for limbing. With the 660 I would want a 404 bar and as small a sprocket that I could imagine. However the 372XP would be used primarily for limbing, but yet it could cut some thing in a pinch. Right now I have other projects that are a priority. I have been working on a small ranch removing dead Oak and since the weather is good right now the owner wants the trees around the barn gone ASAP. They are concerned that the trees could injure a horse or damage the barn. So more saws will have to wait a few weeks. Thanks
 
Just out of curiosity, what, fuel mix are you using for your saws. I've been running Husqvarna 50:1 because all my other 2 stroke runs it.
 
I do not do much limbing with my 070 so size and weight does not matter. Generally if I have a log that is 18'' or larger and at least 20' then it is good fit with the 070. Most of my material is in the 26 to 36'' category so it has proved well. I think most saws would live at 50:1 but why. Stihl Husky and most others that market USA have a goal to pacify EPA. The reliability and longevity have nothing to do with anything. The companies also know that if a saw wears out they can sell a new one. I know from many years of experience where a motor will live. With heavy use on race motors they do best with a ratio between 30 to 40:1. Often a motor with close to a 100 hours will cease to function meaning the piston skirts start cracking and the rings loose much compression. Why go lean on oil when it is not necessary. Thanks
 
Ted Jenkins said:
I do not do much limbing with my 070 so size and weight does not matter. Generally if I have a log that is 18'' or larger and at least 20' then it is good fit with the 070. Most of my material is in the 26 to 36'' category so it has proved well. I think most saws would live at 50:1 but why. Stihl Husky and most others that market USA have a goal to pacify EPA. The reliability and longevity have nothing to do with anything. The companies also know that if a saw wears out they can sell a new one. I know from many years of experience where a motor will live. With heavy use on race motors they do best with a ratio between 30 to 40:1. Often a motor with close to a 100 hours will cease to function meaning the piston skirts start cracking and the rings loose much compression. Why go lean on oil when it is not necessary. Thanks
Click to expand...
I certainly agree. Why not give your saw plenty of oil.

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy
 

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