Huztl FarmerTec 070 Build Thread with upgrade info and completed saw

Rugged made
Wesspur
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Bedford T said:
No lathe here. My best course will be to proceed. I wonder if my pin is loose now I have seen yours I will look at mine, I can without removing it no

If you do not have a lathe you can always use a drill or a dremel tool to widen the grooves. Make a washer or get a washer out of high grade steel and make a cut into it then crimp it onto the groove. When it has been set on the shaft spot weld it or braze it from coming off. This method has worked for me for more than a year. I have ordered some more decomp units, but have not messed with them yet. If I find a real fool proof unit I will post the results. Thanks
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Hum good you got your refund. Not sure why he put it back up. It was down yesterday. Now today its back up no changes?
 
golddredgergold said:
Hum good you got your refund. Not sure why he put it back up. It was down yesterday. Now today its back up no changes?
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That is not the correct part number. Look close at the small tabs in photos. This shows the current part history. If he is confident it's an 090 it might be the first marked 1966 and of course a different part number.
eafe9ebe28e7a1d6f24e402b3f3ace2e.jpg
d499e7daf9baff63ab8077d8e72a4eab.jpg
f7a1be64d017c402b94380370e306fdc.jpg


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I found a guy in the UK who stated it will work and the picture looks good. Not positive on the shipping or time. The shipping was suggested at $15 with part at $20 and claimed OEM or maybe like OEM. My home made fix is holding up fine though. I like the husky types better though in you just snap the button in and start. Thanks
 
Ted Jenkins said:
I found a guy in the UK who stated it will work and the picture looks good. Not positive on the shipping or time. The shipping was suggested at $15 with part at $20 and claimed OEM or maybe like OEM. My home made fix is holding up fine though. I like the husky types better though in you just snap the button in and start. Thanks
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Ted what will work? Don't understand your post.

chainsaw kits and packing lists
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Bed the seller of the decomp valves stated that the units he sells will be compatible with the older large bore Stihl saws or exactly the OEM or like the OEM. I have not received one yet so not sure if this is a fact. Does this help? If some one finds a good source for a decomp valve hopefully they will let us know. A good crimped washer will work fine for quite some time on the unit supplied with the Farmertech. Thanks
 
Ted Jenkins said:
Bed the seller of the decomp valves stated that the units he sells will be compatible with the older large bore Stihl saws or exactly the OEM or like the OEM. I have not received one yet so not sure if this is a fact. Does this help? If some one finds a good source for a decomp valve hopefully they will let us know. A good crimped washer will work fine for quite some time on the unit supplied with the Farmertech. Thanks
Click to expand...
The part is to important so I went with the one I ordered from the stihl dealer. That huge engine being brought to a stop because it failed worries me. It's worth it to me.

Now I hear you say you found a source that told you they sell decomps that will work. I understand that now.

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
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Bed you are right to be concerned that the decomp valve could cause problems. Yes it could stop the saw and destroy the motor. There are two circle clips that need to come loose to allow the plunger to go into the engine which may be likely. If the plunger comes loose the engine will immediately loose compression, but maybe by then it will be too late. When I fist started my saw I immediately had problems with the valve itself and circle clips as one of them came loose. So I came up with a solution until I could figure out a better modification. My modification has worked for more than the past year with some heavy use of the saw from time to time. I have considered trying to fabricate a whole different kind of unit like the husky one, but it could be more machining than I want to invest in. The hole and threads make it not an easy conversion. Starting the saw with out any decomp valve seems not a smart concept in that it appears dangerous to do so. It appears that the valve must remain operational period. I will consider buying another to have because it gets a great deal of work done. This design looks like it could be improved upon, but these saws performed well for many years so my thinking is to work with what they are. A company sells a workable unit for not too much money in the UK [email protected] saegenspezi.com . These units maybe as good as or better than OEM. These are not OEM, but aftermarket. Regardless of the quality of the decomp valve it boils down to the quality of the circle clips that hold the unit in place. The only other solution is to plug the hole by welding it shut and drilling a new taped threaded hole. With a new threaded hole one would be free to install any decomp valve wanted. Thanks
 
Ted Jenkins said:
Bed you are right to be concerned that the decomp valve could cause problems. Yes it could stop the saw and destroy the motor. There are two circle clips that need to come loose to allow the plunger to go into the engine which may be likely. If the plunger comes loose the engine will immediately loose compression, but maybe by then it will be too late. When I fist started my saw I immediately had problems with the valve itself and circle clips as one of them came loose. So I came up with a solution until I could figure out a better modification. My modification has worked for more than the past year with some heavy use of the saw from time to time. I have considered trying to fabricate a whole different kind of unit like the husky one, but it could be more machining than I want to invest in. The hole and threads make it not an easy conversion. Starting the saw with out any decomp valve seems not a smart concept in that it appears dangerous to do so. It appears that the valve must remain operational period. I will consider buying another to have because it gets a great deal of work done. This design looks like it could be improved upon, but these saws performed well for many years so my thinking is to work with what they are. A company sells a workable unit for not too much money in the UK [email protected] saegenspezi.com . These units maybe as good as or better than OEM. These are not OEM, but aftermarket. Regardless of the quality of the decomp valve it boils down to the quality of the circle clips that hold the unit in place. The only other solution is to plug the hole by welding it shut and drilling a new taped threaded hole. With a new threaded hole one would be free to install any decomp valve wanted. Thanks
Click to expand...
You could easily break a bone with no decomp. I think it's great there is possibly an alternative. Buy ship wait see. My method of buy wait enjoy is best for me. They worked for years so the oem is ok. Thanks for sharing your source. Some dealers are but heads to deal with and people would rather not.

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy
 
Drop starting a 100 CC plus saw concerns me and I have done it many times. When they decide to pop and even when you have a great hold on them they can jump and then start. I can be a tough guy, but a buzzing 404 chain can bring any one down especially me. So will have as usual a back up saw or two with a working decomp. My foot struggles to get inside the handle, but I do it anyway. A safety decomp vlave I think will gives years of reliable service. Thanks
 
Ted Jenkins said:
Drop starting a 100 CC plus saw concerns me and I have done it many times. When they decide to pop and even when you have a great hold on them they can jump and then start. I can be a tough guy, but a buzzing 404 chain can bring any one down especially me. So will have as usual a back up saw or two with a working decomp. My foot struggles to get inside the handle, but I do it anyway. A safety decomp vlave I think will gives years of reliable service. Thanks
Click to expand...
I wear size 14 boots. I have a short 1x4 plank that I stick in handle and stand on end. Works well no need to put to in boot

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy
 

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