Huztl FarmerTec 070 Build Thread with upgrade info and completed saw

[Bedford T]

Thanks for the response Bedford, I'm going to get spare clutch nuts on order. Can you tell me what problems you had with the FarmerTec carb that caused you to replace it with the OEM Tillotson carb? Does the Tillotson take care of those problems?

The kit carb gave me no trouble. I said so in the video. I did it soley as an upgrade. I have two. I wanted to upgrade one to the 090. I get so many build questions. Likely 7-8 emails a month where guys are building and they run into something and I need quick access to the saw to snap a photo, it's inside where I can get to it. I would have used the upgraded carb for the 090. I will some day.

The saws spends it's days on it's side. It's the engine oiler. That was my thinking.

When it comes time to tune it remember to disconnect the governor. It's easy to forget. Your needles won't show much change and it will get out of whack. One of the better kits, tuff as nails.

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[Butter saw]

So if I have a large mount bar and change the bar tip and the clutch drum from 404 to 3/8, I could run a 3/8 chain on an 070? Is there a clutch drum made for that or is it a custom fab shop jobbie?
I have been reading about people converting the 070 to 3/8 with no luck. The oiler holes and such is off. Is it because they try to use the wrong bar?

 

[Bedford T]

So if I have a large mount bar and change the bar tip and the clutch drum from 404 to 3/8, I could run a 3/8 chain on an 070? Is there a clutch drum made for that or is it a custom fab shop jobbie?
I have been reading about people converting the 070 to 3/8 with no luck. The oiler holes and such is off. Is it because they try to use the wrong bar?

Stihl currently makes zero bars of any pitch that fit the 070/090 no matter what their literature says. Cannon and others do in .404 hard nose or sprocket.

The saw is not meant to use 3/8. They offer/ed a regular clutch drum and a rim sprocket kit in .404

It's larger chain for a larger saw. You need to just invest in the .404 to get the full benefit from the saw.

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[Ted Jenkins]

Bed has this correct there is no downside to running 404. There are down sides to running 3/8''. I shopped around until I found some rollomatics for my 070's they are 404's. However there are many sources for large mount bars. Grab one. I only use roller tip on all my saws. As I have said before many places in many thread making a 3/8'' is possible because I have done it. And I am sure that there are other ways to accomplish this. You get a 22 MM rim clutch take the 404 rim off and put a 22 MM 3/8 rim on it. You get a large mount bar pull the 404 tip off and put a 3/8 tip back on. The 3/8 chain needs to be a 063. As they say walk in the park. When I first did the conversion I did it with parts laying around then tried to order new. Wasted time. For saws that can pull 404 they are hard to beat. Thanks

 

[Butter saw]

Thanks for the info. I have an old cannon 404 063. Actually just ran out and cut a 37" slab piece of red oak that's sitting in my log graveyard in driveway.
I was really just looking for a way to speed things up. A little jealous of my buddy's 3/8 blue meanie. Cuts faster and smoother. Thanks again. Really enjoy the banter
Kev

 

[Bedford T]

Thanks for the info. I have an old cannon 404 063. Actually just ran out and cut a 37" slab piece of red oak that's sitting in my log graveyard in driveway.
I was really just looking for a way to speed things up. A little jealous of my buddy's 3/8 blue meanie. Cuts faster and smoother. Thanks again. Really enjoy the banter
Kev

The machine you have has much more grunt than the 660. I find people buy these thinking they are faster. If that's what you really are after...

I don't recommend this, your saw possibly will not last as long.

Remove the choke linkage. I would up my oil to at least 32:1. You likely have to adjust the carb, should readjust your carb. My suggestion is to tune no higher than 11000. That is based on old documents newly shared here.

I told you that to show you, you have a very capable saw and need not want. Only advantage your buddy has his saw is lighter and but your chain will be wetter than his.

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[rags44mag]

Hello folks, just a little info. for you in case it would be helpful.

I had a cracked oil tank sight glass & while I could find a replacement, I was not inclined to pay $20+ for another piece of plastic. Did a little measuring & head scratching & came up with a solution.

I found that the threads in the oil tank were 29.5mm X 1.5mm thread.
Kept digging & found something that I could try to use, metric oil sight glass (30mm X 1.5MM) on the Bay for a VEARY reasonable price.

I ordered one each of the aluminum & brass sight glasses, the brass one was actually listed as being 29.8mm OD threaded. The brass was about three times heavier but it actually fits the recessed casting in the tank better. The aluminum ones need to have the outer rim ground down maybe a 32nd of an inch to fit nicely, then they work great as well.

Just thought I would throw this out there just in case it would help someone out.

 

[Phramer Phil]

After melting down my 066 for a 2nd time while milling, I had a vision in which I was instructed by saw gods to build a dedicated milling powerhead, the largest I could assemble with the finest of Chineseum.

The clutch included in the kit is best described as "meh" and 090 clutches are back on the 'bay for the lowest price I have ever seen ($200 w/free shipping here in the states). I will keep the kit pieces as spares.

The next (albeit small) hurdle is finding a suitable clutch drum to convert from spur (ick) to floating sprocket. Every Oregon 12004 listing I have seen was asking north of $200, which is absurd (to me). I plan on purchasing from an Australian seller who can get it here for $62. I think I can save on shipping by ordering more than one, any takers?

Last but not least was the 66mm piston kit. I think I purchased a Hyway brand, will verify later.

 

[Absolution]

After melting down my 066 for a 2nd time while milling, I had a vision in which I was instructed by saw gods to build a dedicated milling powerhead, the largest I could assemble with the finest of Chineseum.

The clutch included in the kit is best described as "meh" and 090 clutches are back on the 'bay for the lowest price I have ever seen ($200 w/free shipping here in the states). I will keep the kit pieces as spares.

The next (albeit small) hurdle is finding a suitable clutch drum to convert from spur (ick) to floating sprocket. Every Oregon 12004 listing I have seen was asking north of $200, which is absurd (to me). I plan on purchasing from an Australian seller who can get it here for $62. I think I can save on shipping by ordering more than one, any takers?

Last but not least was the 66mm piston kit. I think I purchased a Hyway brand, will verify later.

I bought my 090 clutch with all parts except drum for $200 from a guy in Australia. Guy was pretty cool and knowledgeable.

 

[Bedford T]

After melting down my 066 for a 2nd time while milling, I had a vision in which I was instructed by saw gods to build a dedicated milling powerhead, the largest I could assemble with the finest of Chineseum.

The clutch included in the kit is best described as "meh" and 090 clutches are back on the 'bay for the lowest price I have ever seen ($200 w/free shipping here in the states). I will keep the kit pieces as spares.

The next (albeit small) hurdle is finding a suitable clutch drum to convert from spur (ick) to floating sprocket. Every Oregon 12004 listing I have seen was asking north of $200, which is absurd (to me). I plan on purchasing from an Australian seller who can get it here for $62. I think I can save on shipping by ordering more than one, any takers?

Last but not least was the 66mm piston kit. I think I purchased a Hyway brand, will verify later.

I have not seen a hyway, make sure the impulse is in right spot and don't forget a real clutch nut. The nut is at fault for many of clutch issues.

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[Phramer Phil]

I have not seen a hyway, make sure the impulse is in right spot and don't forget a real clutch nut. The nut is at fault for many of clutch issues.

Inspected the 66mm P&C yesterday, no brand name but it looks remarkably similar to yours. I also noticed my kit is missing the infamous felt washer, I'll probably order some from Mcmaster along with a clutch nut and some upgraded hardware.

Thoughts:
I'm half-tempted to do a base gasket delete, I don't recall seeing if anyone has done this yet.
Cylinder will be getting cleaned up, the plating is fine and it has good crosshatching but the transfer ports are pretty fuzzy.

 

[Bedford T]

Inspected the 66mm P&C yesterday, no brand name but it looks remarkably similar to yours. I also noticed my kit is missing the infamous felt washer, I'll probably order some from Mcmaster along with a clutch nut and some upgraded hardware.

Thoughts:
I'm half-tempted to do a base gasket delete, I don't recall seeing if anyone has done this yet.
Cylinder will be getting cleaned up, the plating is fine and it has good crosshatching but the transfer ports are pretty fuzzy.

That clutch nut and washer I encourage you to order those from the dealer. The felt washer is made to work correct thickness and the like, I used a husky on one project but it was to thin, I changed it out. On the nut I don't think you will find the right one. Parts number and a picture is on my website if that might be helpful.

I would use the gasket, it needs no help in that area. After you use it some you will begin to have to start it mindfully or it will damage your hand and shoulder. People think something is wrong, when those rings seat, damn it's got compression. You must start it by pulling slowly until it catches, then yank or you will regret it. I think folks crank their 660 and then when they grab the 070 they yank with muscle memory and it tries to damage their body they think something is wrong, it's just a beast.

Their cylinders don't get a lot of detailed attention so it can vary in finish, but the 070 is generally much better than the other sizes.

If you have not put your cylinder on you might give the decomp some thought, replacing it with oem is good insurance and it's better to have it off to replace it. When you get done it will be a dependable work horse

chainsaw kits and packing lists
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[Phramer Phil]

That clutch nut and washer I encourage you to order those from the dealer. The felt washer is made to work correct thickness and the like, I used a husky on one project but it was to thin, I changed it out. On the nut I don't think you will find the right one. Parts number and a picture is on my website if that might be helpful.

Their cylinders don't get a lot of detailed attention so it can vary in finish, but the 070 is generally much better than the other sizes.

If you have not put your cylinder on you might give the decomp some thought, replacing it with oem is good insurance and it's better to have it off to replace it. When you get done it will be a dependable work horse

Thank you, I appreciate you taking the time to research these kits! I suppose that I can always remove the base gasket in case my pool-noodle sized arms need more of a challenge.

Dumb question: What is the purpose of the felt washer? I will order an OEM felt washer and clutch nut at your behest but I do plan on comparing them to the items I sourced from other hardware suppliers.

M10x1.0 LH Zinc plated steel nut (Class 8). I mic'd the one provided in the kit and the CAD drawing matches it. 17mm across the flats and 8mm tall.
Felt Washer, .500" ID x 1.250" OD x .230-.270" (6mm)

Updates:
- Ordered a floating sprocket clutch drum from Australia, just under $60 US shipped.
- When I line up the 090 cylinder and carb spacer by the impulse port, the intake port and bolt holes don't quite line up horizontally. I am using this as an excuse to do some port matching while I wait for the clutch drum to arrive.
- I found a place in the UK that stocks all of the 090 AV handles and hardware (I think it was around $300 for everything), sadly they do not currently ship to the US.

 

[Bedford T]

Thank you, I appreciate you taking the time to research these kits! I suppose that I can always remove the base gasket in case my pool-noodle sized arms need more of a challenge.

Dumb question: What is the purpose of the felt washer? I will order an OEM felt washer and clutch nut at your behest but I do plan on comparing them to the items I sourced from other hardware suppliers.

M10x1.0 LH Zinc plated steel nut (Class 8). I mic'd the one provided in the kit and the CAD drawing matches it. 17mm across the flats and 8mm tall.
Felt Washer, .500" ID x 1.250" OD x .230-.270" (6mm)

Updates:
- Ordered a floating sprocket clutch drum from Australia, just under $60 US shipped.
- When I line up the 090 cylinder and carb spacer by the impulse port, the intake port and bolt holes don't quite line up horizontally. I am using this as an excuse to do some port matching while I wait for the clutch drum to arrive.
- I found a place in the UK that stocks all of the 090 AV handles and hardware (I think it was around $300 for everything), sadly they do not currently ship to the US.

I was just giving you my best advice based on feedback from people all over the world in many languages that contact me through utube. I am sure you will enjoy your journey.

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[Phramer Phil]

After some fitting, filing and porting I got the rest of the saw together and fired 'er up. I definitely need to read up on how to tune this thing, having a heck of time starting it w/o the throttle being 1/2 open.

That said, I managed to 'tater the flywheel tapered seat into oblivion, the crank and flywheel taper definitely need some lapping and fine tuning. Took a chunk out of the crank keyway and the coil too. Replacement flywheel is on the way, any advice on tuning would be greatly appreciated.

 

[Bedford T]

Flywheel nut

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[Ted Jenkins]

That clutch nut and washer I encourage you to order those from the dealer. The felt washer is made to work correct thickness and the like, I used a husky on one project but it was to thin, I changed it out. On the nut I don't think you will find the right one. Parts number and a picture is on my website if that might be helpful.

I would use the gasket, it needs no help in that area. After you use it some you will begin to have to start it mindfully or it will damage your hand and shoulder. People think something is wrong, when those rings seat, damn it's got compression. You must start it by pulling slowly until it catches, then yank or you will regret it. I think folks crank their 660 and then when they grab the 070 they yank with muscle memory and it tries to damage their body they think something is wrong, it's just a beast.

Their cylinders don't get a lot of detailed attention so it can vary in finish, but the 070 is generally much better than the other sizes.

If you have not put your cylinder on you might give the decomp some thought, replacing it with oem is good insurance and it's better to have it off to replace it. When you get done it will be a dependable work horse

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy

Bed you are dead on on this. Yes the nut has to be really correct. Why would any one want to delete the gasket. You will want to put the gasket back in ASAP.
With the larger cylinder it even more fun to keep your shoulder intact. I have a routine to start that has proven reliable. Pullwith ignition off or use decomp is almost eccential. I messed with my decomps quite a bit until they feel just right. With larger cut jobs these have proved to a beast that just plain gets the work done. To use 3/8 chain you will need to get a large mount bar change tip to 3/8 and use a drum with 3/8. Throw a 063 3/8 chain on it and then you will want the 404 back on it ASAP. I do not recommend using 3/8 chain. It can be done however. Thanks

 

[Ted Jenkins]

After some fitting, filing and porting I got the rest of the saw together and fired 'er up. I definitely need to read up on how to tune this thing, having a heck of time starting it w/o the throttle being 1/2 open.

That said, I managed to 'tater the flywheel tapered seat into oblivion, the crank and flywheel taper definitely need some lapping and fine tuning. Took a chunk out of the crank keyway and the coil too. Replacement flywheel is on the way, any advice on tuning would be greatly appreciated. View attachment 741699 View attachment 741700

I have managed to repair at least one crank that was damaged. I welded up the damage stuck it on the lathe with the con rod installed. I heat treated the end of the crank on a conservitive basis reinstalled and started her up. That was about 6 years ago and she still runs with no problems. However with the amount of work do not think that I will do it again. Thanks

 

[Phramer Phil]

Bed you are dead on on this. Yes the nut has to be really correct. Why would any one want to delete the gasket. You will want to put the gasket back in ASAP.
With the larger cylinder it even more fun to keep your shoulder intact. I have a routine to start that has proven reliable. Pullwith ignition off or use decomp is almost eccential. I messed with my decomps quite a bit until they feel just right. With larger cut jobs these have proved to a beast that just plain gets the work done. To use 3/8 chain you will need to get a large mount bar change tip to 3/8 and use a drum with 3/8. Throw a 063 3/8 chain on it and then you will want the 404 back on it ASAP. I do not recommend using 3/8 chain. It can be done however. Thanks

Thankfully I opted to keep the gasket. Good gravy this thing has some pop.
I have 404 7T and 8T floating sprockets on hand, just waiting on the drum from Australia. I do not plan on running 3/8 on this saw as it will be dedicated to milling.

To me it seemed as more an issue with the tapered portion of the hub being incorrect and the nut/crankshaft end not being able to achieve preload, which in turn let the flywheel hub spread/expand, bottom out then go kablooey. The nut didn't come loose (surprisingly).

 

[Bedford T]

Thankfully I opted to keep the gasket. Good gravy this thing has some pop.
I have 404 7T and 8T floating sprockets on hand, just waiting on the drum from Australia. I do not plan on running 3/8 on this saw as it will be dedicated to milling.

To me it seemed as more an issue with the tapered portion of the hub being incorrect and the nut/crankshaft end not being able to achieve preload, which in turn let the flywheel hub spread/expand, bottom out then go kablooey. The nut didn't come loose (surprisingly).

The nut was not tight enough and the nut that comes in the kit will not tighten tight enough the OEM nut will. We're trying to tell you what the problem was and what the best uses and so forth are and if that's not any help I'm not sure I have anything more to offer to you on my end. Sounds like you're excited and and that's great, fortunately if it breaks you can just fix it. No harm it'll just keep you busy.

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