i set out to find an answer on the net and could not. but i will share some information that will help us.
For milling a saw engine with a long piston
stroke that works in the 6,000 RPM range, with
a chain speed of around 3,000 feet per minute.
(A long piston stroke is simply one that is
equal to or longer than the diameter of the piston.) is preferred.
The 090g is the best. we can convert to a 090
Because ripping requires continuous power, I
run my
engine at a richer setting on the high speed
jet than recommended by the manufacturer.
In crosscutting, this would cause heavy
carbon deposits on the spark plug and exhaust
ports; in ripping,
the extra fuel that
passes through the engine gives additional lubrication
and prolongs engine life.
After the first few hours of operating a new
engine, I torque down the head bolts to compensate
for the shrinkage of the cylinder
gaskets. Heads and cylinders are usually a
one-piece unit. If you have a two-piece unit,
torque both the head and the cylinder. Also
torque the carburetor-mounting gasket and
muffler gasket along with any loose nuts,
bolts or screws. After one or two torques,
most saws usually need no further torquing,
but inspect yours periodically.
milling puts heavy stress on a
saw engine, so for extra lubrication I 'use a
lower ratio of gas to oil than is recommended
by the saw manufacturer.
Occasionally, when a saw is mounted for milling,
the fuel filter inside the gas tank will become
dislodged in an upright position. This
causes the engine to falter when you pull the
throttle trigger and makes the engine sound
as if it's not getting enough fuel. To check for
this, wipe any sawdust or debris away from
the fuel tank cap and remove it. Then drain the
tank and inspect it to see if the filter is positioned
properly. If the filter is dislodged, hold
the saw upright and let the filter drop to the
bottom of the tank before refueling.
I am going to look at adding a second filter
in the tank like the br600 but i need to see if that would help.
An engine sawdust guard does several jobs.
It holds the guide plate that controls chain entry
into the bar and it is also the clamping
bracket for the bar. In normal crosscutting,
the guard allows sawdust to be directed away
from the saw through a bottom opening.
However, when the saw is inverted in the milling
position, the opening doesn't allow the sawdust
to escape properly, which causes a sawdust
buildup between the centrifugal clutch
and the guard. This often leads to internal
clutch problems and heavy clutch-shoe wear.
An easy modification eliminates this problem.
Simply cut away the sawdust-shielding
portion of the unit and use the guide plate
and clamping bracket as you normally would.
This exposes additional moving parts, but
because the saw is inverted during milling,
the advantages make it worthwhile to me.
With this modification, you also won't have to
remove the bar from the engine to mount or
remove the chain. So a second side plate that we cut away
would save the saw for other uses sinve the clutch is exposed.
the most efficient mills are 48 in. and under. The thrust skid of the Mark III
Alaskan Mill has a built-in design problem. It
often loses contact with the log, which
causes the riser post to touch the side of the
log, and quite often, to get hung up. The heavy
vibration and stress exerted on the riser
posts, guide rails and mill handle can also result
in parts breaking or bending, or in misalignment
of the mill.