Huztl / Farmertec ms 440

Rugged made
Wesspur
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Bedford T said:
Pistons ceramic coating washed off? Are you sure it was a coating. Did you pressure test the saw including the fuel system? Black marks should wipe off.
Click to expand...
In hind sight it's probably an anti scuff coating. It was on the 52mm farmertec piston and not on the 50mm. And it didn't wipe off the saw housing until I used petrol. No damage done and as I said, the 52 mm piston looks very nice even now, better somehow than the 50mm one.

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davhul said:
I've had some pistons with it on there. Not sure if it's ceramic but it's a anti scuff coating. It will wear off.
That black under the muffler is likaly oil from assembly or a rich tune. Also their supplied gasket is lacking.
Click to expand...
Anti scuff makes sense, and it was that coating under the muffler, it looked like black paint and only came off with petrol

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Bedford T said:
Pistons ceramic coating washed off? Are you sure it was a coating. Did you pressure test the saw including the fuel system? Black marks should wipe off.
Click to expand...
I pressure tested, and the fuel tank holds pressure and vacuum with the vent in place. I thought the vent should vent vacuum and any pressure over a couple of psi? The marks washed off,I was just concerned that the petrol had eaten my piston. But if it's an anti scuff coating then it's not a problem I guess

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My 440 had to have the vent replaced too and a oem was used to replace it. That and the carb pulse are two things you can't see or touch and both can ruin your day. Sounds like you have your bases covered. Mine runs good. there is a guy that has a bunch of down trees and he needs a hand i am going to take a bunch of saws and my camera soon and go have some fun sometime soon.
 
It's a fun kit set saw, and I have enough old trees around my property that I can test it thoroughly before I take it out and embarrass myself in front of other people, so like I said before if a few things break and get reegineered or replaced with oem then no harm no foul. And on a side note I ordered and received a spare couple of farmertec chain adjusters and they have been changed....much higher tolerance and quality. So that's good as well...

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Has anyone tried not using the metal cylinder gasket? My Huztl 660 runs like a beast without it. I simply used 1184 as directed on both surfaces and it works fine. Squish is a bit tight though but hasn't been an issue and I'm plowing it through some 20"+ red oaks.


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What's you squish look like without the gasket on your 440? The last oem 440 I did I had my squish around .015.
On my 660's I'm happy around .020.
My last couple kit 660's had .023 without the gasket with huztl topend.
 
I had to use no gasket, or make one, because the supplied one was the metal gasket for a 660 and the didn't fit the 440. I ordered another gasket and it's a type gasket more like I expected, but I haven't fitted it, yet. Squish without gasket, for me, is between .020 and .024

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TimTaylor said:
It's a fun kit set saw, and I have enough old trees around my property that I can test it thoroughly before I take it out and embarrass myself in front of other people, so like I said before if a few things break and get reegineered or replaced with oem then no harm no foul. And on a side note I ordered and received a spare couple of farmertec chain adjusters and they have been changed....much higher tolerance and quality. So that's good as well...

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Click to expand...
Nice to hear that they are making improvements on those chain adjusters, now they just have to work on the decomp valves. The main problem with those old chain adjusters was that the end of the adjuster (the one parallel to the bar nearest the clutch) was too small for the housing. Wobbled all around and the soft metal in the gears didn't help anything. From the advice of other members on here, I pressed on a little brass tube bushing and I have had zero problems so far. Gears turn quite nice and should last quite a while, sure beats the price of a new oem set.
 
Do you have a list of things you have done to make it reliable? Or do you just fix as required until it gets there?

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TimTaylor said:
Do you have a list of things you have done to make it reliable? Or do you just fix as required until it gets there?

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Click to expand...

Other than the piston and cylinder, I use Walbro HD-16's on 440's and 460's. The tanks and crankcases hold up fine. Oilers are fine and the 3/4 wrap bars are loads stronger than the 1/2 wraps.
 
Ozhoo said:
Other than the piston and cylinder, I use Walbro HD-16's on 440's and 460's. The tanks and crankcases hold up fine. Oilers are fine and the 3/4 wrap bars are loads stronger than the 1/2 wraps.
Click to expand...
Good information thank you.

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Rebuilt the carb and replaced the fuel vent. Two tanks through it now. It's good . Very powerful. But the adjustments are very fiddly.it keeps going out of adjustment and idling poorly. I think a warlbro might be in order. Or another farmertec one.we put a farmertec carb on my neighbors 064 and it's never gone better......anyway it cuts.
9e1517d474c71881a3fe831a12aad108.jpg
a7d88fc9071250db478e204c64b5d243.jpg


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A pressure test would be a good first step in troubleshooting the finickyness.
 
I pressure tested everything once I had the initial problems, that's how I found the fuel tank relief was not functional. Before I rebuilt the carb raw fuel flowed into the engine with the saw sitting right way up on the bench. Could there be something else causing problems? I have seen a partially blocked pulse line cause bad idle but I checked that too.

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I am hardly an expert. But in troubleshooting you don't have to be, just follow the steps. One pressure test is not complete. You test, correct, test again, until no more problems show up. But most don't check pulse so that's positive. Once your positive it's not pressure vacuum then I would recheck the carb assembly.
 
A few of the kit carbs did not have a jet drilled. Obiviously not your problem.
 

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