Huztl FarmerTec MS380, MS381, 038 Build Kit Start to Finish
- Thread starter Bedford T
- Start date
Help Support Arborist Forum:
I've always been able to take those screws out with a set of needle nose vice grips..
Yeah, I thought that was what it was. The top ones are just screws. I guess a guy could take any bolt that size and cut the head off it and round it out a little.I got the screw that goes into the cylinder that holds the rubber bushing to the shroud on one side. I forgot to take a photo of it but the part # is
0000 963 0808. It was 1.5@$ @ dealer
Has it left China or is the hangup in the US?
I got mine today. I got it assembled. The cowl will not fit or maybe it will and I was just tired. I set it aside and will go back to it tomorrow. My jug leaked and when I pulled it the jug had dirko on it but not the case surface was clean as a whistle. I hit it with the little wheel that removes dirko so well and re did it. My dirko tube sprung a leak and my hands got red. After the drama was over I got good pressure and vacuum tests. My handle had already been tested and was good. The vent was slow to leak so I put a OEM on it.
It was dark and I could not pull it hard enough to crank it. I am fairly certain I set the carb screws some time ago to one out. It has more compression than my 660 or feels like it.
I took it in my Stihl dealer today to get a rubber cork to fit in the manifold to help me with pressure testing and he said it looked top notch. The handle was not on yet.
I am a little concerned about the throttle rod, maybe there is no reason to be, it feels like two settings. I checked the choke it's kicking the lever on the air filter so I should be getting choke.
I will try it again tomorrow. I need to eat and relax now. I had it completely broken down and so when parts arrived had it reassembled in about 4 hours including resetting the jug again.
I got some larger spikes for it.
It was dark and I could not pull it hard enough to crank it. I am fairly certain I set the carb screws some time ago to one out. It has more compression than my 660 or feels like it.
I took it in my Stihl dealer today to get a rubber cork to fit in the manifold to help me with pressure testing and he said it looked top notch. The handle was not on yet.
I am a little concerned about the throttle rod, maybe there is no reason to be, it feels like two settings. I checked the choke it's kicking the lever on the air filter so I should be getting choke.
I will try it again tomorrow. I need to eat and relax now. I had it completely broken down and so when parts arrived had it reassembled in about 4 hours including resetting the jug again.
I got some larger spikes for it.
It shipped on the 4th. The tracking stops on March 8th in China.
I ordered a backup too from them. One of them will show up. If you need a working saw in less than a month this is not the path to take.
China shipments may be backed up because so many people are ordering from them. I've talked to a few guys around here and they never heard that you could order a complete saw from China that you assemble yourself. When you sell stuff cheap they beat a path to your door..
Mine got held up in the snow storm. It arrived well packed. I look forward to messing with it tomorrow again.
With these the pulse comes from a hole in the wall. You gotta line the manifold up with the notch on the outside so it does not cover the hole on the inside. When I did my tests I could not figure out how to test the pulse with that setup. Just seems like an easy problem if everything does not line up. I feel mine did line up. Just the way they were designed then. My caps did not leak. After the pressure test I knew the fuel tank was tight. But the oil cap holding was nice too.
The shrouds holes did not seem to line up and it was evident around the decompression valve. I will have to drill it before it has enough room to pop. It popped every pull, of course shroud was off.
With these the pulse comes from a hole in the wall. You gotta line the manifold up with the notch on the outside so it does not cover the hole on the inside. When I did my tests I could not figure out how to test the pulse with that setup. Just seems like an easy problem if everything does not line up. I feel mine did line up. Just the way they were designed then. My caps did not leak. After the pressure test I knew the fuel tank was tight. But the oil cap holding was nice too.
The shrouds holes did not seem to line up and it was evident around the decompression valve. I will have to drill it before it has enough room to pop. It popped every pull, of course shroud was off.
I found some information on the bing carb they included in this kit.
The Bing carb on the 038 unlike the Walbros and Zamas on other Stihl saws it a real jewel.
The fuel and air passages are not molded into the body , but are grooves which are easily accessible by removing the cover plate inside the metering chamber.
This plate is held down by 2 screws.
The major carb kit # 1119 007 1066
and a Valve jet # 1119 121 5402 should enable you to do a complete rebuild job. These numbers could be old. check them.
The Bing carb on the 038 unlike the Walbros and Zamas on other Stihl saws it a real jewel.
The fuel and air passages are not molded into the body , but are grooves which are easily accessible by removing the cover plate inside the metering chamber.
This plate is held down by 2 screws.
The major carb kit # 1119 007 1066
and a Valve jet # 1119 121 5402 should enable you to do a complete rebuild job. These numbers could be old. check them.
I bought a Chinese Bing clone for mine, never took it apart, just adjusted it after I put it on the saw and no problems. Way better than the old Tillotson that was on it. Of course the Tilly needed rebuilt..
I understand the square screw now. It sits behind the handle bar and its the best way to insert or remove the screw is with a 8mm box end. Mine would not start. carb seems to be fine, I tested the spark and nada. I will order two coils. I also ordered a 20 in bar. the saw tips with a 24" and that makes me nervous on a new saw. The shroud balking was I did not have the two top av screws all the way in and it interfered with the hole position, so simply screwing them in all the way solved that issue and then the decomp needed just a little bit taken off the shroud hole to free it. So its perfect and awaiting a new coil. I will do a comparison between it and the 440. The 440 is no harder to start than the 029 but this 038 is a different animal more like the 660, so if you are choosing a saw and you are older keep that in mind.
You might want to order one of these, the elasto start handle. The 3.5mm rope is right for this size range. It pulls hard enough to go up to 4.2mm size if the rotor will accomdate it and I don't have that info
http://www.huztl.net/Stihl-MS440-04...ith-3-5mm-Rope-OEM-1113-195-8200-p288296.html
You might want to order one of these, the elasto start handle. The 3.5mm rope is right for this size range. It pulls hard enough to go up to 4.2mm size if the rotor will accomdate it and I don't have that info
http://www.huztl.net/Stihl-MS440-04...ith-3-5mm-Rope-OEM-1113-195-8200-p288296.html
Attachments
On the pair of spikes I got from Huztl this is the outside spike ( http://www.huztl.net/h-product-detail.html?goods_id=228971) I forgot to mention that the clutch cover will require some tweaking to the cover to allow the bottom portion of the spike to fit the cover. Material removal amount is small. I will take a photo of it later.
Inner spike
http://www.huztl.net/h-product-detail.html?goods_id=228973
If your comp release is poping without the engine firing it is malfunctioning, aftermarket decomp is a known problem both with the previous problem as well as the button detaching. Best to go with OEM decomp.
I had a little trouble when I first got my 038 but it was OEM..my trouble was with the choke/air filter sticking. I bought a sackful of those decomps from China and haven't had any bad ones yet. I have one in my 036AV and one on my 026AV. My 038 doesn't have a de-comp. When/if they go bad I'll buy the OEM..
026 and 036 don't need a decomp to begin with, plug em and run em.
Probably right. The saws had one to start with so I just put a new one in when I rebuilt them. My 038 plastic has a big hole where the de-comp could have been but the cylinder wasn't drilled for one..026 and 036 don't need a decomp to begin with, plug em and run em.
I had a left over decomp that is oem quailty. I took the one that came with this one and used it on my 660. It fell apart when I was milling those few boards I did. I used the backup in this one. I tell ya removing the shroud on this puppy is a pita. You will want a top of the line valve to keep from removing it.
