Huztl FarmerTec MS380, MS381, 038 Build Kit Start to Finish

[Bedford T]

It's built. The quality of the parts were very high quality. Probably the best Huztl kit I've done. The clutch and drum were oem quality and the drum was Stihl branded. The flywheel was also very high quality. The plastic on the rear handle towards the top in the carburetor area was a little flimsy but servicable.

The top cover looked almost brown in indoor lighting. It looked fine outside.

I will start it tomorrow after the motoseal cures overnight.

No missing parts. Only two parts left over. The base gasket and an extra insert for the chain brake handle.

All of it are copies. You said it was OEM quailty. Mark's should not matter although I would prefer they not bother stamping them. It no secret they are copies. I understand the cast marks carrying though.

 

[davhul]

Yeah. I've heard of AM stamping Stihl on parts but never seen it. The problem is the guy that could pay 35$ for a 3$ drum. Stihl puts that S with a square on there also. Interesting

 

[tbohn]

The quality on the clutch and drum are a step above the other Huztl clutches and drums I have used and I would have a difficult time telling them from oem.

 

[davhul]

It does look good. We'll see what Bedford gets. They swap up so many manufactures who knows.

 

[Bedford T]

I will post it when I get my paws on it. Ifs it's like today they will toss it out of their truck as they drive by.

 

[tbohn]

There seems to be excessive play in the piston connector pin. At the top and bottom of the stroke, the piston stops momentarily and there is loud clicking as the rod moves up and down in the roller bearing.

 

[Bedford T]

So the wrist pin you had to open the area to accept is suspect or the bearings. Do I understand correctly?

 

[Bedford T]

I will look at anything you want the minute mine arrives if you wait, which you likely will not.

You certain the rings have no place in the sound. We have that tonsil to stoke them.

 

[tbohn]

I'm pretty certain the bearing diameter is too big and there is slop between the wrist pin and the bearing. I can rotate the flywheel back and forth a couple of degrees without moving the piston.
I guess I'm pulling the cylinder off.

 

[Bedford T]

I would too. It would eat at me.

 

[Bedford T]

Any way it could be slop at the flywheel like the woodruff slipped out when you were not looking. You are judging movement from the flywheel is why I mention it.

 

[tbohn]

I'm pretty certain the bearing diameter is too big and there is slop between the wrist pin and the bearing. I can rotate the flywheel back and forth a couple of degrees without moving the piston.
I guess I'm pulling the cylinder off.

It turns out there is almost 1/8 inch space between the bearing and the hole in the connecting rod. The bearing fits the wrist pin snugly.

 

[a. palmer jr.]

It turns out there is almost 1/8 inch space between the bearing and the hole in the connecting rod. The bearing fits the wrist pin snugly.

Is there some kind of insert missing? Or is it possible the clutch bearing is a different size than the wrist pin bearing?

 

[tbohn]

Is there some kind of insert missing? Or is it possible the clutch bearing is a different size than the wrist pin bearing?

Nothing shown on the IPL.

 

[Bedford T]

Dang,

 

[Mad Professor]

Good thing you did not try to start it..........

Wasn't it a little sloppy when you were slipping the piston into the cylinder?

Looks like you got the wrong upper end bearing.

What is O.D. of wrist pin, I.D. of rod, width of rod?

O.E.M. rod bearing is 12 X 16 X 13 mm

No way to mix it up with the clutch bearing as that is a caged dual needle bearing 12 X 16 X 24 mm

How much did you have to grind to get the bearing to clear the bosses in the piston?

Is it possible they shipped a 044/046 wrist pin bearing ? 12 X 15 X 15 mm That bearing would fit the pin, be small in the rod, and fat in width.

 

[tbohn]

Good thing you did not try to start it..........

Wasn't it a little sloppy when you were slipping the piston into the cylinder?

Looks like you got the wrong upper end bearing.

What is O.D. of wrist pin, I.D. of rod, width of rod?

O.E.M. rod bearing is 12 X 16 X 13 mm

No way to mix it up with the clutch bearing as that is a caged dual needle bearing 12 X 16 X 24 mm

How much did you have to grind to get the bearing to clear the bosses in the piston?

Is it possible they shipped a 044/046 wrist pin bearing ? 12 X 15 X 15 mm That bearing would fit the pin, be small in the rod, and fat in width.

I'm not sure where my brain was when I was installing it. When I took it apart it was obvious.

The pin is 12mm. The bearing O.D. measures 14.88mm. The length is 14.18mm. The opening in the rod is 16mm. I think you right about getting 440/460 bearing.

The bearing fit into the piston but the pin was very tight. There were some small casting seams on the piston that protruded into the space where bearing fits. I filed them so the bearing would slide all the way so the pin went in easily.

Huztl has been good about making things right it just takes weeks to get replacements. I have a bad cylinder and bad coil on a 440 kit and this issue with the 380 kit. I am also going to ask for a different top cover. I can't get over the burnt orange color.

 

[tbohn]

....and the rod is 13 mm wide.

 

[Mad Professor]

....and the rod is 13 mm wide.

Looks like you have a spare upper bearing for the 440

Edit : stihl dealer may stock or be able to get correct bearing. Also a bunch on flea bay

 

[Bedford T]

What happened to the edit buttons?