Huztl MS660

[Johnnybar]

Under what conditions is the clutch backing itself off? I haven't seen any issues related to it at all on my 100% huztl 660 and I just snugged it down with a small wrench and a piston stop in place.

 

[X 66 Stang347 X]

Only on my last saw for me. First time it happened it was on first startup and second time was during tuning and cutting.
It hasn't came loose since
I usually put a few clutches on a week on oem saws and never had one come off.
Except a husky that I free reved without a bar. The clutch hit the floor and took off out the door and up the hill. Lol. and that was a new saw

 

[Johnnybar]

Only on my last saw for me. First time it happened it was on first startup and second time was during tuning and cutting.
It hasn't came loose since
I usually put a few clutches on a week on oem saws and never had one come off.
Except a husky that I free reved without a bar. The clutch hit the floor and took off out the door and up the hill. Lol. and that was a new saw

That's hilarious. Bet you almost jumped as high as the time the buddies in metal shop class filled part of a 40'x12" pipe with acetylene and lit it off. It almost knocked the doors and windows out of the shop building.

 

[X 66 Stang347 X]

I knew someone that did that at pep boys and cracked the store front glass [emoji33]

 

[Big_Wood]

Under what conditions is the clutch backing itself off? I haven't seen any issues related to it at all on my 100% huztl 660 and I just snugged it down with a small wrench and a piston stop in place.

you should be doing it with a half inch impact with the stop in place. the backing off is likely a saw assembled with a hand tight clutch and then turned over a few times by hand pulling the rope. the slow movement through compression cycles will cause the clutch to back off against the clutch drum making it very difficult to remove the clip on a stihl with the solid retaining washer. the huskies and stamped washer stihls are not bad when it happens though. i just zap clutches snug with a 1/4" impact. it won't get ones that have been on for years off but most clutches recently assembled come off with it. i've never had a course thread clutch that i recall where the 1/4" impact couldn't get it off. the old impact is getting tired now though.

 

[Johnnybar]

you should be doing it with a half inch impact with the stop in place. the backing off is likely a saw assembled with a hand tight clutch and then turned over a few times by hand pulling the rope. the slow movement through compression cycles will cause the clutch to back off against the clutch drum making it very difficult to remove the clip on a stihl with the solid retaining washer. the huskies and stamped washer stihls are not bad when it happens though. i just zap clutches snug with a 1/4" impact. it won't get ones that have been on for years off but most clutches recently assembled come off with it. i've never had a course thread clutch that i recall where the 1/4" impact couldn't get it off. the old impact is getting tired now though.

Some of the 1/4" impact drivers do over 100 ftlbs...even the harbor freight cheapies spec almost 90 ftlbs so they must be pretty snug if installed with an impact. IIRC they call for about 40-50 ftlbs in the specs depending which manual you look at.

 

[Big_Wood]

Some of the 1/4" impact drivers do over 100 ftlbs...even the harbor freight cheapies spec almost 90 ftlbs so they must be pretty snug if installed with an impact. IIRC they call for about 40-50 ftlbs in the specs depending which manual you look at.

the 1/4" are good for it but they won't get many old stuck on clutches off. i doubt you'd get more then 30 ft/lbs on a clutch out of one but it doesn't matter how tight the clutch is. just snug it up so it doesn't come lose and it will tighten when you cut wood. i don't follow torque specs except in some automotive and marine applications. always just tightened fasteners on saws by feel and never have issues with screws coming loose.

 

[Johnnybar]

the 1/4" are good for it but they won't get many old stuck on clutches off. i doubt you'd get more then 30 ft/lbs on a clutch out of one but it doesn't matter how tight the clutch is. just snug it up so it doesn't come lose and it will tighten when you cut wood. i don't follow torque specs except in some automotive and marine applications. always just tightened fasteners on saws by feel and never have issues with screws coming loose.

Same here...never pulled out a torque wrench or screwdriver on a saw. I guess milling with it's continuous pull on the clutch is also less likely to spin a clutch off than rev-idle-rev-idle use.

 

[Dale Bundy]

Update on My Hutzl ms660, got two tanks run though her, I felt that it sounded off, so I ripped her apart to find that the piston at top dead is hitting the cylinder enough to leave a mark on the top of the piston not hard enough to feel if turned over by hand. Has any one hard of this problem? I used base gasket supplied with kit.

 

[tbohn]

Mine had marks like that from shipping. The only issue had of the piston hitting the top of the cylinder with the base gasket installed was on a Huztl 52mm on a ms440.

Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk

 

[Dale Bundy]

Had no marks from shipping had some foam shoved in the cylinder, I wish that was my case, but the good news is locally there was a new oem 066 cylinder for $75, I garbed it now it has more compression & more power, now you have to use to decompression valve to start it with the small pull grip provided. so problem was fixed in a positive way.

 

[twinstaged]

Check the squish and see if is really is a clearance issue. Not loose on the wrist pin or anywhere else down the line?

 

[Dale Bundy]

I did check out the rest but not the Squish everything looked & felt good. I just gave up on that hutzl cylinder when I was on craigslist and found a stihl OEM 066 cylinder with piston for $75, I will look at it with the next build I do if i do.

 

[tbohn]

I purchased a couple of 28 inch bars from Huztl. They were about $45 each with chain delivered. They are laminated and seem about the same quality of a Forester bar.

 

[tbohn]

Photos...

 

[twinstaged]

Well I finally sat down and put mine together. I had to machine .009" off the base so it wouldn't rock around. Polished up the squish band and it sat right at .020 squish no base gasket. Cylinder plating and just the feel of it doesn't seem worth porting so I'll order another cylinder late. It does pull a 32 inch bar through maple. Carb has issues idling down consistently, but I'll keep messing with it.

 

[Johnnybar]

Update on My Hutzl ms660, got two tanks run though her, I felt that it sounded off, so I ripped her apart to find that the piston at top dead is hitting the cylinder enough to leave a mark on the top of the piston not hard enough to feel if turned over by hand. Has any one hard of this problem? I used base gasket supplied with kit.

View attachment 579453

A squish test will definitively tell you the story on that but I think it is unlikely that it is hitting. Mine was lightly marked from shipping also.

 

[Johnnybar]

Well I finally sat down and put mine together. I had to machine .009" off the base so it wouldn't rock around. Polished up the squish band and it sat right at .020 squish no base gasket. Cylinder plating and just the feel of it doesn't seem worth porting so I'll order another cylinder late. It does pull a 32 inch bar through maple. Carb has issues idling down consistently, but I'll keep messing with it.

You may have to bent the tab on the throttle lever, tweek the linkage or bevel the edges of the butterfly if that is preventing full closure of the throttle.

 

[twinstaged]

Yep been there this morning. Ground the stop back and reshape the butterfly, while it's better it's still giving me **** lol. I'm already 2 plus full turns out on the high side too. I need to pull the rest of it apart and either drill the jet or just buck up and put a real walbro on her.

 

[twinstaged]

Does anyone's master control switch actually hold high idle?