Huztl MS660

[Bedford T]

On mine. I put my bar studs backwards sadly.

For the record.
The saw I built had dinged up gasket surface on the cases. The crank had a bad cast job with bubbles on one lobe . And the cylinder fins were bent. But it runs. Lol



Honestly I don't think that these aftermarket recoils can withstand the compression. That's why I ordered a replacement decompression valve. The little cap on mine fell off after the saw got warm. I am trying the metal cap forester one for 12 dollars shipped.

You might be able to center tap a screw hole into the middle of the decompression button and screw the cap onto the shaft with a tiny screw.

It's too late now but when it comes to the decomp valve go oem. They are 20$ they others are 8-12$.

Example aftermarket stuff is passed around. Stens has some good stuff but it's very expensive and often comes from different supplies just like Forrester etc. Farmertec supplies an awful lot to these other brands so it's hard to know for sure it's orgin. We know that Stihl gets a lot of stuff from these same people.

But the difference here is they test that valve. I think it's just random on the singles. On the saw it's fired up. Sometimes you can find oem used.

I hate having to reset those am valves every pull. Be great to find an AM that will perform.

 

[Bedford T]

after work tonight... it moves between choke and run pretty well... it just won't go over the rise to the off position...

I forgot to say why...

It could change the tension.

 

[Bedford T]

thanks... I give it a try... I was thinking of rounding the edge the contact spring has to go over in order to get to the off position... taking a little bit off there the make it easier for the spring to move up the rise there...

I looked at mine even closer and felt like the spring could be tighter on the contact in the off position so I took the leaf spring off and used two small sized needle nose to bend it ever so slightly at the edge of the hinge on the off control side and it worked perfectly. I included photos in case any part is helpful as you go forward. i would advise you take photos of the triggers position if its your first time, before hand, if you need to go that route. I had it done in 30 minutes. Your statement made me look more critically and doing it now gives a much better result.

to get to the spring I took everything off first and to get the spring off and back on the stud I applied pressure on both sides of the stud and pushed down and it popped off and slid a big flat head under it to popped it back on the stud.

 

[cleb]

Mine was that way...I put a very light coat of grease on things where they contact/slide...much better now

bingo... little grease and it works like a charm... thanks for the suggestion

edited to add photos for anyone else

 

[steve easy]

Hultz bug has bit me bad, 660 clone has been running good about 12 tanks through it now. Went to get another from the hultz site, but ended up getting 070 kit instead.

 

[Bedford T]

070 Kit is here
http://www.huztl.net/Complete-Repai...er-Muffler-Carburetor-Handle-Bar-p584588.html

 

[redjeepxj]

I received a new fuel tank after the previous one leaked at the seam. Still unable to get the saw to start. If I put fuel directly into the carb it will run. So far it appears fuel is getting to the carb as when I remove the fuel line from the carb it sprays fuel out. Disassembled the carb and it is dry, no debris appear to be clogging anything and the gaskets appear to be good. Not sure where to go from here. Any help is appreciated.

 

[Bedford T]

Did you do a pressure test. Your saw is new and the #1 issue is a leak. That can and will cause what you face. Head bolts, exhaust ....

Another thing I guess your impluse line is on the carb?

 

[cleb]

bingo... little grease and it works like a charm... thanks for the suggestion

edited to add photos for anyone else

and my fuel tank leaks at the seams... anyone else run into this?

 

[Bedford T]

and my fuel tank leaks at the seams... anyone else run into this?

#2986

 

[Bedford T]

I got some parts for my build today. I noticed the chain adjuster fits perfectly. the tolerances were tight and it closed and opened well. The 0 ring is a little stouter than the one i put together last year.

And the wrap handle looks pretty darn good. I bought a hand brake wrap handle and may not need it. appears that the normal huztl hand brake they regularly sell to everyone is the wrap model. that was surprising. I have just a few more pieces coming from Stihl and it will be done.

I have been hunting for the ultimate ms380 carb and i found it. i will post on it when i get the flaw fixed

 

[Bedford T]

These are both ms660 clutches. which one appears to be the best and why do you think so? The top one seems to have thinner outter surfaces and larger springs and the lower one seems to have thicker outer surface and smaller springs
thanks

 

[BuckthornBonnie]

The first pic is what I've used with a lot of success for 1122s. I use oem springs, though. The second pic looks like the older version of 1122 clutch. Is China copying an older part? Odd...
Here's a telling difference that would affect alignment of everything pto side: take a pic of the other side of both clutches. If they're similar then they'll both use the clutch washer and fit like a normal later 064/066/660 clutch.

However:


See the retainer on the second pic? These style clutches don't use a clutch washer as a spacer. It's integrated into the design.

 

[BuckthornBonnie]

It's doubtful that the other style has this spacer as I think Stihl changed them before 660 production. I know 034, 064, and 029 used the washer-less clutch during most of their runs:

036 clutch- no integrated washer

034 clutches- integrated washer

 

[BuckthornBonnie]

To answer your question (kind of) is that they'd both be fine. The newer design (your first pic) has interlocking shoes that are an upgrade. The larger/more coil springs seem better to me. Heck, look at your 1128 springs that 036/044/046 uses--- lots of coils. (036 pic above).

 

[Probablywillforget]

I bought three more kits during the father's day sale. A couple friends and I spent a few Sunday evenings putting them together. A few things I noticed on these that were different from my first build...

One kit had terrible rubber parts. The impulse line split at the seam, the fuel line elbow and line were already on the handle and the fuel line split upon putting it on the carb.

Another kit had a split in the spark plug boot.

We had to mix and match clutch drums to get all three to have drums that would fit on the crank and bearing and spin without resistance. I put an Oregon drum on my first build.

Still missing the 5mm nuts to put the felling dogs on.

These carbs had the small notch in the butterfly that my first build did not have. They all start and run but I haven't messed with the carbs enough to really try and dial them in. Right now I have one that starts and idles. It will need tuned more after I can get it in some wood. The other two will run but I haven't put a bar and chain on them yet.

 

[Bedford T]

The fuel line comes on all handles and included the elbow. Been that way since day one. You just forgot. That happens to me too. The drum thing is maddening. I got some pics here of a handle I bought to finish an extra engine and those parts came installed as recently as July. What does mix match clutch drums mean? Any of your tanks leak?

 

[BuckthornBonnie]

I think he means that if one drum doesn't spin freely, he changes it out with one that does. Then possibly uses that drum on another saw. I do the same thing with AM drums... unless they're really bad.

 

[Probablywillforget]

I think he means that if one drum doesn't spin freely, he changes it out with one that does. Then possibly uses that drum on another saw. I do the same thing with AM drums... unless they're really bad.

Correct, we all had our own saws in a box. One saw had clutch that was normal, one seemed kind of sloppy, and one was to tight to even get on. We switched the drums on the tight one and loose one and all three work correctly now.

 

[Bearhawk]

Well, yesterday was the day. I was part of the group buy on these kits on another forum as well as a couple of buddies. One friend came over yesterday to join me in a little "build party" of our MS660s.

The group buy kits look like the FT kits except the little baggies inside the big box all say "Cross" on them. Both saws now run like champs. The only problems we both had were the kill switch finger seemed just a tad short so when you went to full choke the finger would slip past the cam and fall beyond the cam lobe. The fix was to flatten out the curve of the switch finger and that fixed both. Neither one slipped until we put grease on them. I use lube on things that rub or slide when I put things together so maybe this was my fault. Both also experienced the piston skirt rubbing against the crank weights with the cylinders on. A minute of sanding with 220 grit on the bottom of the skirts took care of it on both. They were just barely rubbing. My cylinder needed a bit of flashing removed around one transfer port but that took more time to get the die grinder out of the toolbox than it did to clean it up. The only other problem on mine was was the fuel line end where it comes out of the fuel tank was misshaped. This meant it was loose at the top of the tank. No problem though because our kit gave us some rubber spares for different things, fuel line was one of those spares. The other saw encountered no other problems.

We both measured squish without a base gasket and mine came in at .018" and my buddy's was .013". We both used the base gasket and IIRC mine came in at .032" with the gasket and sealer.

Both saws started after around 5-6 pulls and both sounded pretty mean. We didn't get a chance to saw any wood as it was getting late.

Overall, I was very surprised at how nice the parts were. Everything fit together well with the exceptions listed above. I was even surprised that both chain brakes worked like a Stihl. I know this has been a problem for many of the earlier kits but both of ours worked as expected. Lastly, I can tell you an MS660 with a 36" bar is HEAVY. The 20" bar is heavy enough but that 36" one is nose heavy and very. I'll be selling one of my two kit saws with the 36" bar. That was the plan all along.