Huztl MS660

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Does it feel solid using it and cutting? Can you tell there is a difference between the huztle and OEM?


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Does it feel solid using it and cutting? Can you tell there is a difference between the huztle and OEM?


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I can tell the oem is a lot smoother and you can't feel anything but he chain in the wood. Where this kit saw has some vibration but not a whole lot. If I ran it 8hrs a day I would get it and If I didn't like it I could sell it and still make a few dollars.
For a home owner who uses it on the weekend I think it would fill their needs. The power feels like a muffler modded MS 460 with the carb tuned.
It would run a 36". Just like my 460 has. But It's currently on my 064.

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Maybe that and you can feel that $20 crank a little. Not sure how it would like porting and over 14,000 rpm. Makes you think might be pushing it.


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Maybe it was just mine but I don't know how long it would have run with the slag hanging Into cylinder around the transfers.


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Depending on the year of mfg that might be a serious improvement over stock...

At $240 shipped I'd imagine that the average non-professional user can live with some negatives as long as they're not safety concerns, especially if they'll last 5+ years of average use. As far as I know there aren't example of longevity beyond a year or so...I'm sure that there are, but I haven't come across the info.
I believe that @weimedog has a bit more than a year's worth of moderate use on them and I think that's pretty darned impressive.
 
I think caber rings are always a must. I put a cheap aftermarket kit on a husqy 240 with caber and one without. One ran and the other barely ran.


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Everyone breaks them in their own way. But in this one I tuned it kinda fat and did a few heat cycles and went bogging it in the wood. In race engines you want to seat the rings quick as possible. Once the sharp edges are gone from honing break in slows down. Seen the difference. So I apply it on my saws
Temp got about 265 on clutch side cylinder fins. On 4 cuts
85° and 90% humidity


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Mine with the 54mm both picked up power and lost vibration as it broke in. Around tank number 10 it was at its best. I did one with and without any cleaning up on the ports. Both are still running. The built with "as delivered" parts saw is in the hands of a guy who sells firewood. Still runs strong. The "cleaned up" build isn't much stronger than the as delivered version but it has a more crisp feel to it.. throttle response idle etc. All improved.

My 56mm version gets run frequently and this will be the second firewood season for it. As for power... its got more than both stock saws it was compared too. Also noticeably more than the 54mm saws.

Not being a Stihl guy...I started mine at 12500. Now the 54mm and the 56mm sit at 13300-13500 depending on temp & humidity. (56mm i keep closer to 13300) The 56MM Version does vibrate more and still needs a carb tweak as the weather changes..just a little more finicky than the 54's

In my mind they all are in the ball park power wise with the saws in that displacement class. In those cookie cut comparisons a bar/chain difference will often sway the results so my total bar / LGX combo sharpened my way easily could have impacted my impromptu comparisons. Bottom line is for the $400 dollar price point there is nothing you can buy new even close. Pretty amazing that it gets compared favorably to a stock version when you think about it.

If I was to do this again I think I would take a tweaked 54mm version over the 56 simply because they are easier to live with once the novelty is done, the measuring sticks put away, and day in day out I'm looking at a pile of work with no one but mother nature watching.
 
Just a reminder this is about building the kit. How it works on your engineered 56mm does not exactly translate. You are given one gasket. I wanted it on record how it should be placed. It's about the kit.

Let me be clear, can we not say clearly in the thread this "x" is correctly installed by "doing". Then talk about the comparable 56 with its short skirt and how regardless it's still a monster. Come on.

Please lead the blind

Ignore.
 
You won't find a better saw for the price. But that was people's questions all along is how it compares. Then you know where it stands. Most people would be happy if it last 5 years it Could last longer no one knows yet. Also they would know how to fix it with a $35 P&C since they put it together initially.


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Ok. Have a problem. I noticed a bar oil leak from the start yesterday but figured it was the cap as I read somewhere the caps might need oem. Well it's not the cap it's leaking from the hole next to the cap. Look inside and there's a crack. That's the left side case. For now I'm going to clean and sand. Then wipe some dirko over it. Then contact huztl next week. IMG_1934.JPG


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DO NOT modify a part you intend to return.
How does the vendor know your modification/repair (sanding, dirko) was necessitated by a manufacturing defect and not by something you did?

Making any modification or repair without specific instructions to do so from the seller absolutely nullifies your buyer protections from Ebay and Paypal.
Be patient, contact Farmertec and ask what they want you to do.
Dave
 
Really why would they want me to ship it back and waste my time and their money. Just ship another out. If they don't, then I feel the sealant will fix it. If it doesn't I'll tear it down and tig weld it instead of waiting 2 weeks at earliest. It hasn't cracked any running it today. I'm not selling it. It's going to be a saw I loan out to a couple friends.


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