Huztl MS660

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If it's on par with NWP and meteor as far as casting and chamfering but has better port #'s then that's a deal of a price.
 
@weimedog maybe you have some input. I put a oem chain adjuster in and gave the saw to my neighbor then a few days later he comes by with the adjuster stripped out. I figured he stressed on it tightening up the long bar. So I grabbed another and installed but this time I looked closely at it and the oem is a .004 smaller in diameter. A 064 066 and 660 use same adjuster but I wonder if the 088 is that much larger. I will order a 088 adjuster today to see. Anyone have any thoughts

Huztl adjuster
6dd3b1aa6cf3622093712846ec46fd7f.jpg

Ms660 adjuster
c858f9ea36c3aed4a59542e40b6d93d3.jpg
 
@weimedog maybe you have some input. I put a oem chain adjuster in and gave the saw to my neighbor then a few days later he comes by with the adjuster stripped out. I figured he stressed on it tightening up the long bar. So I grabbed another and installed but this time I looked closely at it and the oem is a .004 smaller in diameter. A 064 066 and 660 use same adjuster but I wonder if the 088 is that much larger. I will order a 088 adjuster today to see. Anyone have any thoughts

Huztl adjuster
6dd3b1aa6cf3622093712846ec46fd7f.jpg

Ms660 adjuster
c858f9ea36c3aed4a59542e40b6d93d3.jpg
The only thought I have is that sometimes Chinese quality control isn't all that great. On a lot of stuff I've ordered I've had to modify it to fit. Most of it will work, however.
 
That's true but the oem won't work. With the oem being smaller it barley touches the other gear and any force causes it to bind and want to strip. Both my kits act the same
 
That's the only part that oem didn't fit That I've seen. I'll try to post a vid tomorrow and show both installed
 
Other than having a .062 jet. I drilled it to .072 the carb holds its tune so far. The other I put a walbro wj-76 on it with a .074
 
I've had one bad carb, swapped it with another AM which worked pretty well, then again with a Walbro that also worked well. Not certain the Walbro was a huge improvement over the AM's when they worked. I have had no trouble with the OEM adjuster assembly complete out of a scrap 460 for almost 1.5 years. I replaced EVERY thing, all parts related; not just the gear. Have not seen a bad coil yet. Symptoms of what I considered a "bad" carb was it would not idle well. Constantly chasing a stable tune....swapped it out problem went away.
 
@davhul I have some used oem 044/046 adjuster assemblies but it will be another week to week and a half before I can pull one. I have many junk crankcases. I am assuming they are the same.


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I to used the whole adjuster other than the metal and plastic cover. I compare them closely tomorrow and see what I come up with. I'll pull the one out of my 064 and check it. It's smooth as silk in it.
 
Another observation/question. I see some had issues with shearing flywheel key ways...I haven't, going on dealing with 10 so far between mine and a couple of buds where I did the bottom end work for them. What's going on with that? I use an old cheapo "butterfly" air impact (One of those small ones with the rocker control on top.....not a power house!) to zip the flywheel nut on. I just grab the flywheel by hand (gloves please for those with un calloused hands..) let it rattle until it slows down. I have no idea what the torque is....but the flywheels haven't moved. Built the first early 2015, and a couple of mine have been "loaned" out for testing in real logging service. AND I do concede it is really easier to just buy a new pto side seal, pop the preinstalled one out and after pressing the case halves together put the seal in. Did one like that yesterday. No strain or pain. Just used a press & some tools I built that do what sockets used to do for me in that process.
 
Ive put on flywheel nuts that way for years and used a butterfly. I now use my 3/8 M18 fuel for the convenience. In all the years I did snap one crank off at the nut on a br320. I did feel it snapped to easy like there could have been a flaw. But was my mistake. I had a spare so all was good except time. I still have it
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On that engine the key sheared due to a leaking carb needle. When started the liquid fuel in the sump went up the transfers and hydro locked the piston then shearing the key.
 
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