Huztl MS660

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Does anyone know short of going to the Stihl dealer, where one can buy online the H / L decals for the carb screw adjustment side of the air cleaner cover?
 
I have been reading all these post from you guys who ordered your kits back in September. Some got them in under 2 weeks, some waited almost a month, a few cancelled and started over. I ordered mine 12/17/16 and just today the 22nd, the status says it has been shipped. Hoping to see it some time next week. Thanks in advanced for all the time and effort you guys have spent on the do's and don'ts in building these saws. I know mine will go together slow, I got all winter!
 
It will not go slow. I suggest you try so you can savior every minute.

Honestly if I would have had this road map it would have gone faster for me.

When it's over you will be bummed and start looking for something to put your hands on. You will have you saw and that in itself is awesome. But you built the thing and your skills will naw at you, it did me anyway.

Enjoy it
 
decomp plug is 4421 025 2200 fills the decomp valve hole
seal plate 0000 855 8106 rubber strip
carb flange that covers the the intake 5910 850 4200 you attach your air hose to
exhaust block off adapter is 1122 145 1200 shaped like the muffler gasket and use the same screws that hold the muffler on

less than $50
+
what ever you can get by with for the gun and you are loaded for bear

I've removed the old seal and new one is on using a bit of drink can to stop it puckering out, worked a treat.

Tried running the saw again and it still dies with **** to no idle.

Compression top end is good 150-160psi

Looks like I need to test everything else using the gear you've listed here.

I think the place in the UK is L&S Engineers, they have all the parts sans the rubber sealing plates which I can make out of some rubber mat.
The Vacuum test gun you have is £22 on eBay here. Total is £40 for all the test parts. Not bad and I'll be able to test other saws out. I think my MS020t is doing something funky so it'll come in handy there.

Has anyone got any pictures of a saw with all the head sealed up and a vacuum and pressure test going on? out of interest......
 
I don't have the vid any more. I can find something to do a pressure test on. But it would be Monday
 
I found some bits on youtube.

Has anyone simply shoved a bit of rubber between the carb and intake manifold and used the impulse barb to connect the pump to pressureise the engine from the crank? Just mitigates the fancy £11 stihl carb blanking plate thing?
 
I found some bits on youtube.

Has anyone simply shoved a bit of rubber between the carb and intake manifold and used the impulse barb to connect the pump to pressureise the engine from the crank? Just mitigates the fancy £11 stihl carb blanking plate thing?
That will work with the muffler. The difference is getting it right takes work/luck. If your chasing a leak you need confidence.

Using the impulse you exclude other parts of the circuit.

Don't over look your fuel delivery system
 
I found some bits on youtube.

Has anyone simply shoved a bit of rubber between the carb and intake manifold and used the impulse barb to connect the pump to pressureise the engine from the crank? Just mitigates the fancy £11 stihl carb blanking plate thing?

You could. I always do the pressure test first. Usually there's a leak and just soap down to find it. My exhaust block off is the culprit most of the time and just tighten and or recenter.
 
Most of the guns have a fitting to attach the hose. Stihl has a nipple I am going to get that is reversible for hose size that $3. I will get one soon.

When you test the carb you might have to use a piece of fuel line and a nipple. Both pressure and vac come into play there.

I told a guy the other day how important that gun was and he made fun of me. We can see it's helpful
 
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