I tapped and rapped and gave a few hard whacks and didn't budge it. In an act of desperation I put a plastic hammer on top of the threaded part and put a deep socket over the bearing race on the other side, got both sides to perfectly .030 but as soon as I let the press off it went back how it was before. When I first got the halves together they where both .035, but when I torqued the bolts down the one side came in to .025 while the other side stayed at .035. I'm done fooling with it tonight, may take it to the station with me tomorrow to mess with it in my downtime. I'll give the nut and washer trick a try. My shift partner used to be my mechanic so maybe he can offer some insight as well.
Huztl MS660
- Thread starter Kyler Monares
- Start date
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Johnnybar
ArboristSite Guru
You don't have to track down a hex nut...just spin the clutch on and tweek it with it's center nut. Seems like most builds I remember seeing specs on had .070" total case clearance for .035" per side.
Every one is an individual so that can vary a few thou. Best to either measure before hand or simply use feeler gages to first measure both sides as assembled then do a little math to decide what centered is for that particular saw.
I think crap shoot is the right analogy as all mine work from last year and the year before. But this might simply be another place where there has been multiple suppliers and where OEM might be a good option as the cost is relatively low. Simple solution if its a real problem and you need the saw quickly.
Another possible reason is the crank is up against a bearing...the bearing might be seated a little different and that's what you are going to have. .010" isn't the end of the world. If that crank turns freely and the seals are right ...that's what is more important
^^^^^^ This!
Alrght, I finally got it to .032 on one side and .035 on the other. I thought it spun freely before, but much more so now. So I'm happy with the results, we will see as I go along. I attribute some of the size differences to the fact I didn't use the huztl gasket and the hyway was much thinner. Thanks for all the answers, I never got around to doing the nut and washer method, I cheated and put a brass hammer on the shaft with the nut on it and a deep well socket on the inner race of the other side, one pump on the press and got the results listed. I suppose it may have went closer, just didn't want to push it. Now onto putting other stuff together, going to wait to wait until I get chance to hone the cylinder a little to clean up any burrs that might be there before that gets installed. Will probably take a little bit for me to get one done as I tend to get a bit OCD on stuff.
I fired mine up yesterday and had a high idle like some here posted. Before I mounted the carb I made sure the butterfly would close all the way which it did. One thing I noticed was a slight gap all the way around the butterfly. Like the brass butterfly is machined slightly to small. I'm talking a hair. I'll have to look at it more and may swap out the butterfly or carb. My other 2 kits idled fine. It Has no air leaks.
Johnnybar
ArboristSite Guru
Did you try loosening the butterfly screw partially then see if butterfly will center in the bore completely when rotating the shaft before retightening it?
I did. That's when I noticed there's a slight gap all the way around. Ill take it off tomorrow afternoon and check it more. And get pics
Chris3558
ArboristSite Lurker
Check the idle screws also. On my two saws, both the idle screws were slightly bent. You may be able to chuck up the screw adjusting end in a drill and lightly tap it with a piece of brass? I put them in a collet on the lathe and tap them in until they run true. I did fire up my 2nd saw this afternoon. The chain brake works with the kit lever link. There is a difference between the lever link I got with the first kit and the one I received with the 2nd. Hopefully they keep sending out the good links!
EB Saw
ArboristSite Operative
I just built up my 440 kit from huztl and my carb had erratic idle and i couldn't get it to idle. The idle tab was not bent right causing the idle screw to do nothing. I eneded up just buying another chinese carb off ebay, and it runns perfet now, the issue might not have been in the carb but the idle adjusting was not working so for 13$ for a new carb, it was worth every penny, she runns perfectly now.
Johnnybar
ArboristSite Guru
They have two generations of the brake linkage available at Huztl now #1121 160 5000 and #1128 160 5000. I'm guessing the 1128 version is the working copy. Can anyone verify that it is and that it is currently shipped with the 660 complete kits ? They can be added to the order for a buck and change in case the dud linkage is sent in the kits.
I dug through the spare carbs as i swapped in walbros, have two completely different styles of AM carbs..one where I can put in the walbro jet. The other fixed jets. Took one of the ones where I could put in the walbro pn112-466-74-1 jet. And also put in a throttle plate from an old walbro wj35a which has the same "notch" and bling saw idles at 2600...nicely. takes around five minutes before it loads up a bit so you can't hit the throttle and go. Also instead of the low speed two turns out and the high almost 3...the low speed is now one turn and the high 1 and maybe an a little. Maybe another 1/8. Much improved. The walbro throttle plate fits better to the bore. So one of three things could have helped, the throttle plate, the jetting, or me setting the metering level in the carb....lol
The other interesting thing bling saw allowed me to see is that huztl 56mm with the short piston has classic signs of too much intake duration but since it's Damn near 100cc with a big flywheel it doesn't matter as much.
And as you get down around 3000 it begins to start misting back through the carb when the throttle is opened. Still idles at 2800...forced it to 2600 but by that time it's pretty obvious when you crack the throttle. Got it to be stable at 2600...but it's happier at 2800 or more. Any less and it loads up when the throttle is open..
bottom line is they are more temperamental. But still run well.
And as you get down around 3000 it begins to start misting back through the carb when the throttle is opened. Still idles at 2800...forced it to 2600 but by that time it's pretty obvious when you crack the throttle. Got it to be stable at 2600...but it's happier at 2800 or more. Any less and it loads up when the throttle is open..
bottom line is they are more temperamental. But still run well.
cvx1170
ArboristSite Member
Do somebody knows if huztl forecast to potentially extend the complete machine parts to other model like 260 ect? Is there any plan, schedule?
Can you tell the difference between the fixed jet and removable jet carbs other than removing the cover?
The one with the removable jet had a bunch of numbers stamped in places sort of like oem.. and to confuse things more there was two versions. ..one with a different choke ..the return springs on one are both on one side on the ones with fixed jets & one of the ones with removable jets. But all the ones with fixed jets have no markings and both return springs for the choke are on one side.
jackjcc
Addicted to ArboristSite
There's rumors of 200t and 290 being added. Nothing official as far as I know.
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