I found one! Almost..Part 2- ohhh26

[dav2no1]

If you have not read my first post, here's a quick recap. If you have read my post skip the next paragraph.

Been looking for a saw. Buddy gave me a Stihl 024 day after Thanksgiving. I have a Milwaukee M18 pole saw, but that's it. Used a few of my buddy's saws over the years but only briefly. Didn't know anything about saws. So I read a bunch of stuff here, watched videos, etc. Ordered tools .. mini pump, block off plates, etc. Went to my local Stihl dealer and got parts...impulse line, carb rebuild kit, fuel line & filter, new caps, spark plug. I have not completed impulse and carb rebuild. It tested good with the old line on. I also learned how and modified the exhaust. Then I made sure I knew how to tune the carb properly. Everything is back together and really works great.

So my buddy that gave me the 024 (he's does tree work) said he had a Husky 41 for me. And my other buddy(he also does tree work) told me yesterday he had a Stihl 026 Pro I could have. They both live pretty close by, so I picked them up today.






The Stihl 026 Pro has no spark. I checked plug and gap, tried different plug. Watched video that said if you pulled the + off the module it would isolate it..still mo spark.

BUT it also failed the limp starter rope test. Sounds like it has compression but falls down when held by the rope.

Started tearing it down..piston looks good.


Pressure looked good, but appeared to be moving a hair..Then vacuum test failed miserably. I was pretty tired at this point, so will mix some soapy water and try again tomorrow. Thinking crank seals are toast.

My buddy said he got it from a customer. She said it worked fine, but sat and then wouldn't start. So definitely seals are junk?

 

[Mad Professor]

If you have not read my first post, here's a quick recap. If you have read my post skip the next paragraph.

Been looking for a saw. Buddy gave me a Stihl 024 day after Thanksgiving. I have a Milwaukee M18 pole saw, but that's it. Used a few of my buddy's saws over the years but only briefly. Didn't know anything about saws. So I read a bunch of stuff here, watched videos, etc. Ordered tools .. mini pump, block off plates, etc. Went to my local Stihl dealer and got parts...impulse line, carb rebuild kit, fuel line & filter, new caps, spark plug. I have not completed impulse and carb rebuild. It tested good with the old line on. I also learned how and modified the exhaust. Then I made sure I knew how to tune the carb properly. Everything is back together and really works great.

So my buddy that gave me the 024 (he's does tree work) said he had a Husky 41 for me. And my other buddy(he also does tree work) told me yesterday he had a Stihl 026 Pro I could have. They both live pretty close by, so I picked them up today.

View attachment 1229531

View attachment 1229532


The Stihl 026 Pro has no spark. I checked plug and gap, tried different plug. Watched video that said if you pulled the + off the module it would isolate it..still mo spark.
View attachment 1229534
BUT it also failed the limp starter rope test. Sounds like it has compression but falls down when held by the rope.

Started tearing it down..piston looks good.
View attachment 1229533

Pressure looked good, but appeared to be moving a hair..Then vacuum test failed miserably. I was pretty tired at this point, so will mix some soapy water and try again tomorrow. Thinking crank seals are toast.
View attachment 1229535
My buddy said he got it from a customer. She said it worked fine, but sat and then wouldn't start. So definitely seals are junk?

The 026 is worth fixing, right way. Finish vac test and do a comp test before you tear it down. Make sure decomp is not your "vac leak". Check if cyl is OEM, I see a plug on the top cover for the decomp. Should see KS or Mahle on the casting someplace.

The ign/coil will swap out with many other Stihl saws. Don't buy Chi-Com/AM junk one.

 

[dav2no1]

I noticed the intake boot has a hose clamp style, clamp..looks like it is not really tight. I just stuck a small screwdriver on it and it moved easy..may be loose? I'll look more into it tomorrow.

 

[Mad Professor]

I noticed the intake boot has a hose clamp style, clamp..looks like it is not really tight. I just stuck a small screwdriver on it and it moved easy..may be loose? I'll look more into it tomorrow.

View attachment 1229537

Shop manual also shows proper orientation of the clamp.

 

[Chevboy0167]

Hmmmmm.... that 026 cylinder looks very clean. Like it looks hardly used for that age of a saw plus very little if no carbon buildup in the exhaust port. Them cooling fins should have some browning color on the edges if it is the original cyl.

Me thinks it has been replaced... possibly aftermarket. Gotta look below the transfer ports at the mounting flange for stenciling like Mad Professor said.

 

[dav2no1]

First thing I noticed was the pull cord cover looked aftermarket. I agree, looks very fresh. Inside is very clean.

I had a thought earlier that the 024 had lots of oil and muck inside that kept those seals wet and in decent condition. Versus this saw that looks dry inside.

I'll inspect it a little closer tomorrow. I'm a rookie, but thought it looked different inside? Like you guys said..possibly replaced. But remember my buddy said it was a homeowner saw and she didn't use it much.

 

[Michael E]

Hmmmmm.... that 026 cylinder looks very clean.

I thought the same thing. It looks like the saw has been cleaned up, the cylinder replaced and not used much/at all since then. You should look for assembly errors.

 

[Gord404]

Just did up 2 026's- one had a blown piston but the other was good- cylinder cleaned up - meteor in- both needed new seals- when doing the clutch side drain the oil and there is no need to get the rubber hose off your pump- you can get them off the crank and tie them off to one side if it is the same setup- you will know if you have to do then what needs to be taken off- PS- the 260 had a .07 larger bore

 

[dav2no1]

Just did up 2 026's- one had a blown piston but the other was good- cylinder cleaned up - meteor in- both needed new seals- when doing the clutch side drain the oil and there is no need to get the rubber hose off your pump- you can get them off the crank and tie them off to one side if it is the same setup- you will know if you have to do then what needs to be taken off- PS- the 260 had a .07 larger bore

Remember I've never even worked on a saw till a few weeks ago. So if I have to open this one up, I'll try to remember what your saying. I am a hot rodder and fo have tons of assembly experience including at the Big B Airplane company.

 

[Gord404]

Remember I've never even worked on a saw till a few weeks ago. So if I have to open this one up, I'll try to remember what your saying. I am a hot rodder and fo have tons of assembly experience including at the Big B Airplane company.

well we can help walk you through it a bit at a time- sometimes a good idea to take pictures for your own reference when re-assemling

 

[dav2no1]

Ok..so tightened the intake boot..found my exhaust block off was leaking a little..fixed that. Pressure test looks good..but vacuumn immediately leaks down. I sprayed all over and can't see anything?

I thought this was a decompression valve, but looks like it's just a bolt? Adding to the "possible replacement" cylinder...there's no markings on the bolt..like grade standards..

 

[Chevboy0167]

That is what they look like but have a crush washer for a seal like the spark plug has.




https://www.ebay.com/itm/2537020903...UKVy55yB0plNUNugap/aj/pnlA==|tkp:BFBM_p_A14Jl

 

[Chevboy0167]

I will add, it is "recommended by some" to replace the crush washer on the plug after each removal to prevent compression leakage. Them crush washers are "kind of" a one time use deal.

But if you install a plug in the first place, why the need to remove it? As far as re-using the spark plug after a removal, I say go ahead. But if you pressure test the cylinder through the intake or an impulse line at the cylinder base, I have seen and heard of the spark plug crush washers leaking.

Typically it is a very small amount of leakage unless the washer is completely missing.

 

[dav2no1]

Thank you! I'm used to looking at bolts with markings on them.

And I pressure tested as shown..with carb removed and impulse line plugged.

I did spray a bunch around that bolt and saw nothing...no bubbles.

Pressure was good..vacumn..no good, immediately leaked out.

 

[Gord404]

most likely seals- cheap amazon thread in flywheel puller works- bought one from FTec years ago and still works fine- clutch side is a little mor comlicated

 

[Michael E]

If it only leaks vacuum, spraying with soapy water won't help to find the leak. I agree that it sounds like crankshaft seals, a washer would probably leak pressure as well as vacuum. Try to put a drop of oil on a crank seal, pull vacuum and and see it the oil is sucked into the seal. Repeat for other side.