I found one! Almost..

[dav2no1]

I would carefully remove the built-up carbon from the exhaust port. don't get it in the cylinder.

Yes I installed my new block off plate and cleaned all around there. Dad was into electronics..I found out years ago the old TV adjustment tools work great for tight places. There are a bunch laying around. Has flat blades on both sides, with one smaller blade.

And dad had a whole drawer of old school medical Q Tips...the bag is so old it is stapled at the top of each bag. His friend used to be a surgeon, so I also have a bunch of cool forceps in different lengths..someone mentioned using some to install the impulse line..perfect because I have a variety.

 

[cookies]

I went through one of these earlier this year that a dingleberry tried to repair but instead they roached the piston. the things I did to get it zippy again.
new fuel hose, impulse hose, fuel filter, carb kit, spark plug, starter pawls, piston and rings
more zip--- thinner base gasket and added a couple 3/8 holes in the muffler outlet then put a 16" bar on it. This made it act like a different saw.

 

[dav2no1]

I went through one of these earlier this year that a dingleberry tried to repair but instead they roached the piston. the things I did to get it zippy again.
new fuel hose, impulse hose, fuel filter, carb kit, spark plug, starter pawls, piston and rings
more zip--- thinner base gasket and added a couple 3/8 holes in the muffler outlet then put a 16" bar on it. This made it act like a different saw.

This is my first saw..so NOT trying to be a dingleberry! I do have a new fuel hose & filter, new impulse line, carb kit, bar oil cap, gas cap, spark plug, exhaust gasket and chain.

In the future I may go back to a 18" bar. Current plan is to replace the gaskets and hoses. Will attempt pressure & leak test tomorrow..hoping crank seals are good. Saw has sat a long time. Saw does have good compression and piston looks good.

Looking at proper way to easily remove carb linkage. That'll be tomorrow lesson. Looks like I can unbolt it and then remove? After that I'll see how hard it is to replace the impulse and fuel lines. Then do pressure/vacuum tests.

 

[dav2no1]

Thanks guys! I did check the bearing. It's rock solid with no movement..so shaft and bearing are good.

I was more curious if there was an upgraded bearing I should be using? But this one seems fine for now. I have some good white lithium grease I was thinking of using here

 

[pioneerguy600]

Thanks guys! I did check the bearing. It's rock solid with no movement..so shaft and bearing are good.

I was more curious if there was an upgraded bearing I should be using? But this one seems fine for now. I have some good white lithium grease I was thinking of using here

Do not use white lithium grease it clots and hardens over time and I have seen many instances where bearings have seized and damaged other parts. A clear light grease or even engine oil works great for all my saws.

 

[dav2no1]

Ok did a vacumn and pressure test..both good! I performed the test with the old impulse line. Since it passed I assume the impulse line is good for now. Eventually I will replace it and rebuild the carb.


The Deadman switch and throttle line are a little finicky. It took me a few minutes to understand how it went back together. I did not put the bar back on yet. I put some fuel in it and went through the proper starting procedures. It took a minute, but fired up and ran.

I will need to figure out how to adjust the saw properly. The idle was a little low, but it revved up and sounded great. Obviously I did a muffler mod and I replaced the spark plug with the proper plug (wsr6f) that is a little hotter plug than the ws7f that was in it. (At least that's what I read.)



So after a very brief warmup I turned it off and played frisbee with the dogs...they were mad I was ignoring them all day playing with the saw. When I returned there was a small puddle of oil on the floor. I did not fill up the oil(didnt have bar on), so it was whatever was in the saw. Not sure if it's s a normal amount or if I have another problem?

So question is..I had a single dog and screw out at the bottom. Do these screws out cause extra oil? Tomorrow I'm going to flip the bar and install the new chain and fill it with bar oil. I think it's probably a normal amount of bar oil once the chain and bar are back on.

 

[dav2no1]

And another friend just called me..he is doing tree work now. Said he has an old 026 I can have! So sounds like I may have a few more I can tinker with!

 

[flatsfisher]

if you had it running, it would pump bar oil out of the oil tank and line. doesn't look like a lot.

 

[dav2no1]

So I talked to my buddy that gave me the 024. He has a Husqvarna 41 that he is going to give me next. Same kinda deal..ran good but has sat for awhile. So I have 2 saws on the back burner after this one.

 

[pioneerguy600]

Ok did a vacumn and pressure test..both good! I performed the test with the old impulse line. Since it passed I assume the impulse line is good for now. Eventually I will replace it and rebuild the carb.
View attachment 1229131
View attachment 1229132
The Deadman switch and throttle line are a little finicky. It took me a few minutes to understand how it went back together. I did not put the bar back on yet. I put some fuel in it and went through the proper starting procedures. It took a minute, but fired up and ran.

I will need to figure out how to adjust the saw properly. The idle was a little low, but it revved up and sounded great. Obviously I did a muffler mod and I replaced the spark plug with the proper plug (wsr6f) that is a little hotter plug than the ws7f that was in it. (At least that's what I read.)
View attachment 1229129


So after a very brief warmup I turned it off and played frisbee with the dogs...they were mad I was ignoring them all day playing with the saw. When I returned there was a small puddle of oil on the floor. I did not fill up the oil(didnt have bar on), so it was whatever was in the saw. Not sure if it's s a normal amount or if I have another problem?

So question is..I had a single dog and screw out at the bottom. Do these screws out cause extra oil? Tomorrow I'm going to flip the bar and install the new chain and fill it with bar oil. I think it's probably a normal amount of bar oil once the chain and bar are back on.

View attachment 1229130

If the oil is dripping down between the bar studs that is normal after having the engine running, this model of saw pumps oil whenever the engine is turning over. If the oil is drooling out from behind the clutch then there is likely a leak from the rubber line connecting the oil pump to the bar pad, or even the oil pump itself, occasionally the connection pump to oil line from the tank.

 

[Michael E]

So I talked to my buddy that gave me the 024. He has a Husqvarna 41 that he is going to give me next. Same kinda deal..ran good but has sat for awhile. So I have 2 saws on the back burner after this one.

Told you the virus was strong in you, yound padawan Once you start messing with chainsaws, they just keep coming.

 

[dav2no1]

Spent a few hours watching videos on how to tune the carb correctly. Happy to report..got the bar(flipped), new chain on and warmed up. At idle the chain was still barely moving, so I turned it back till it stopped..revved it up and did this a few times till I was satisfied.

Thing sounds great and it has a snappy throttle response like it should(at least from what I've learned). Eventually I will go back in and replace the impulse line and carb rebuild. But for now I'm super happy. Need to try and cut a few things next.

Thank you to everyone for the suggestions, tips and comments..it really helped a lot. FYI with the bar on, it appears the oiler is working correctly. I'll let it sit and see what happens overnight.

 

[dboyd351]

Now that you have the bar and chain back on, when you start the saw hold the bar tip pointing towards a piece of wood or paper and rev the saw up a few times.
You should see a line of oil on the wood/paper as you blip the throttle, indicating it is oiling properly

Don't worry about the puddle - almost all saws leak some bar oil.

 

[dav2no1]

Saw sat overnight. No giant puddle and tank is almost full..so I think the oiler is good. When I get a chance, I'll try the test you mentioned.

Also..just because..I ordered a Proline digital tachometer. Should be here soon. Want to check my high rpms and make sure they are goodm

 

[009Legend]

Saw sat overnight. No giant puddle and tank is almost full..so I think the oiler is good.

I might be telling you things you already know, but in case not, if you leave the tank with oil in it and the saw sitting, it'll eventually create a big puddle of oil due to atmospheric pressure changes causing the saw to, "pump" the oil out of the tank.

 

[dboyd351]

Like 009 said - best to empty the tank of bar oil
or at least put a "diaper" under it,
I prefer to empty both tanks and run the saw dry if it looks likely it will not be used soon. Saves puddles of bar oil and rebuilding carbs, at the expense of more pulls to get it started if you don't have a primer bulb.

 

[PV Hiker]

I might be telling you things you already know, but in case not, if you leave the tank with oil in it and the saw sitting, it'll eventually create a big puddle of oil due to atmospheric pressure changes causing the saw to, "pump" the oil out of the tank.

This is true. But I fixed a couple of saws by cleaning the oil tank vent. This allowed the pressure to vent by the vent and not by pushing it through the oil pump. Just something to check .

 

[dav2no1]

I plan on draining both tanks before I store it. I still have to try cutting something and double check my bolts and spark plug..make sure I got everything tight enough. And I'm waiting for my digital tachometer so I can see how close I am.

I'll start a new thread for the other 2 saws.

 

[dav2no1]

Ohh a sneak peak..just picked them up today.

 

[buzz sawyer]

Ohh a sneak peak..just picked them up today.
View attachment 1229527

This should be moved to the "you suck" thread.