Jwalker1911
Addicted to ArboristSite
You're right! He's mistaken. 61cc.
STIHL 038 AV SUPER chainsaw, 27" bar, 164 psi compression ,awesome power ! | eBay He's pretty proud of it too lol
You're right! He's mistaken. 61cc.
Not sure what its worth but its close to me if anyone's interested McCULLOCH D30 Chainsaw
Rep'd.......Yep, that's similar to mine except the anvil you have is the one that proved to be difficult to use. The quality of these sets are all over the place. My buds set was much worse than yours, he had your anvil and the spinner fitting was so soft it was actually softer than the rivets he was trying to spin! The anvil was shaped wrong as to be unusable without grinding it to a new shape. His breaker was much too low to the base so that if he bought the better, but thicker anvil that it wouldn't fit. The breaker spinner setup he has now makes mine look bad, and I was happy with mine until I saw his new setup...
Its all what you get used to I suppose.:msp_unsure:
BTW, Its a good idea to grind the rivet heads down flush to the tiestraps before you press them out. It saves you from having to struggle to punch them out, and your punch will last a lot longer.
He's a pic of the better anvil:
The one baileys sells is similar (but it costs $22): LINK
Not sure what its worth but its close to me if anyone's interested McCULLOCH D30 Chainsaw
Some of those had no oil pump. You mixed the gas really rich and it scavenged oil out of the crankcase somehow. Sounds fun to fix.
Grinder, punch and small ball peen hammer is all you need. Faster too.
these are the same as the oregon and i have no complaints the spiner dose a great rivet without grinding
Yep, that's similar to mine except the anvil you have is the one that proved to be difficult to use. . .
BTW, Its a good idea to grind the rivet heads down flush to the tiestraps before you press them out. It saves you from having to struggle to punch them out, and your punch will last a lot longer.
Grinder, punch and small ball peen hammer is all you need. Faster too.
Yep. Since I don't see the add-on manual oil pump on that saw, it must be a "Lubri Mac" saw. The user was supposed to run their fuel mix at TEN TO ONE, as there's a one-way valve setup in the bottom of the crankcase that's supposed to allow accumulated crankcase spoo to oil the bar/chain. Keeps the mosquitos at bay, but doesn't lube the bar very well. MAY just contribute a tiny bit to carboned up exhaust ports and ring grooves too...
Not the safest thing in the world either, as 90% of your bar oil is GASOLINE!!!!! Combine that with no spark screen in the exhaust.
Jim Savage is a classic brand. They sold a lot of re-branded "mini" equipment like those little saws, weed wackers, blowers, etc.
I could be wrong.....and I usually am......but since when is the 038 super a 72cc saw?
PLEASE LOOK AT THE PICTURES AND DESCRIPTION CLOSELY. IF YOU YOU DON'T SEE IT OR READ IT AS PART OF THIS LOT IT, SIMPLY, DOES NOT COME WITH IT.* SOMETIMES THE FIRST IMAGE OR TWO ARE THE MANUFACTURER' S STOCK PHOTOS , USED FOR CLARITY.
I wonder who gave the extra touch by painting one bar cover nut and not the other. Missing one allen screw on the bottom? The first ones were pan head slotted, then they went with the slotted torx combo about the time the assembly lines checks went from dollars to pesos. And its first job blocking up a tree would take most of the cutters to the big bar in the sky.
Its not worth finding Supertramps "dreamer" for. A nice example, but hardly rare or interesting.
I have know way to know.
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