If I run out of chain oil..........

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Thanks for all the help guys.

I was starting to get confused, but now I see that the consensus seems to be to use motor oil. Of course, just to get me through the day. I also usually have a bucket of hydro fluid for the tractor sitting around, so I guess that will work in a pinch too.

cd
 
I've run my saws with the oiler set up for max delivery and I have NEVER drained an oil tank before a gas tank. What does the bottom of an oil reservoir look like, I've never seen one :)

Tom
 
After many years of being a woodtick, I find if I use hydrualic oil over traditional bar lube, I get 3.47% less wear to all terminal parts, and why wouldn't I? However, if I piss in the tank instead, I get a golden shower, but the best of all, is when I completely run out of any sort of lubrifucation, I run for my gas can fill it up.
I really groove on the flames that come off the tip, and why shouldn't I?
Humphrey Dumbroski
 
chain sings

Yes, I have run out of oil before the gas tank emptied and the chain will sing but with four posts on the forum I'd tell him to look see. Don't know if he can hear it with ear protection or feel it through the gloves. Better safe than sorry. I don't recommend wasting a chain to find out but then the school of hard knocks takes no prisoners. The expense would sharpen the learning curve, as in "Boy I don't want to make that mi$take twice".
 
When in Walmart yesterday buying my favourite bar lube, hydrualic transmission oil, I heard over the intercom from customer service that their panties were half off, so I made a beline real fast from the auto section to the womens section.
John
 
I like to add two drops of astroglide everytime I fill up. It makes the shaft on my chainsaw really just fall through the wood even when the chain is dull. Try it, its the Schizzel on my Nizzel bizzel's Hizzel................Later Wade
 
Chain Lube

I was going to keep this to myself for fear of my peers stomping me over it. I use vegetable oil. Canola, peanut, vegetable, corn, it doesn't matter. Never olive, though. In the 394 I make sure the flow is set to full.

I've been doing this now for two years and use 10-W-40 when I run out and need a substitute to get me through the day. Wintertime is an issue, but really only when the temp goes below 20. In a cold, cold saw it never turns 'solid' rather congeals, but run the saw for a minute and it's back to liquid state.

I do this for health reasons as I used to feel like I was breathing in a lot of atomized petrochemical particles. Also, spills were an issue, and my clothes would reek of oil at the end of each day. I don't care how much tack they put in bar oil,- some of it will still spin off.

I figured I would trade the cost of the bars and lube components for a healthier feeling about my work. So far, my bars are lasting just as long and I haven't had to replace any oilers.

Costwise, veggie oil is 5 bucks a gallon, as is bar oil. Availability, however, is much greater as it's at any grocery or party store.

ps DON'T do as the Tree Machine does. I'm just offering up what it is that I do. -TM-
 
After all the rapsodic ballyhoo about so called proper bar oil, I think we can all come to the same conclusion that it isnt the quality of the oil that is used, but the quantity that is delivered to the bar and chain. Low grade oil in a low grade application.
Does any rational thinking person actually still believe that bar oil would retain any tackiness even though the oil tank is right below a hot muffler, not to mention that the bar and chain temp rises to at least 130 degrees in the cut, further bringing the oil into a lower viscosity? Bar lube is tacky, only in the container and between your ears, nowhere else.
This doesnt mean that bar oil is any less efficient than any other oil, it just means that some people are easily duped. Let price be your guide when using the oil of your choice.
John
 
As many of you health-conscious sawyers are aware. Apple sauce is an approved substitute for oil in most recipes.;)
 
Hello guys, the farm and fleet store near you probably has bar and chain oil for less than $15 for a 5 gallon bucket full. The next cheapest, transhydrol, costs $23.

At that price, why would anyone run out?

I don't use anything but cheap bar oil. And why should I?
 
I use bar and chain oil, try to get it on sale and buy a few gallons at a time, I don't use my saws every day so it generally lasts me awhile. Have used 10-30, 10-40, 20-50 when out of bar oil but haven't tried used motor oil yet, always thought used oil would defeat the purpose
 
Used oil is nasty. It has suspended particulates in it which can be abrasive. It has combustion by-products in it which are carcinogens. It stinks. It stains your clothes. It wears out oilers. It accelerates bar wear. Don't use waste oil!
 
Not being much of a gearhead but having a basic understanding of what engine lubricants do, that was my feeling, that the oil was full of a bunch of stuff that was no good. Besides if it was still lubricating properly wouldn't it still be in the engine?
 
No buckwheat, I just keep a big glob of neverdull on a lily pad that I cut first thing in the morning, it sort of resembles an artists pallet with only one color on it. After dipping the spinning chain in it periodically throughout the day, it then resembles a Rorshak which I sell at an avant garde art gallery in Toronto. I`ve been told that the same crazed gentleman of a diminuitive stature and sporting a Stihl hat buys them all up. He is purportedly an eccentric timber baron who lives on the outskirts of town who happens to have a strong interest in chainsaw memorabilia.

Russ
 
Going back to the one post about veggie oils, aspirating any oil
is bad for the lungs, as huffing Pam can be lethal.
 
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