ignition coil module testing echo cs-400

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northener

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Hi ! there i new with this forum and i want ask a question on ignition coil testing with meter . i have spec from echo the primary coil at 200 to 400 ohms secondary at 1.5 to 2.2 k ohms my resultats primary 780 ohms primary and secondary at 1.53 k ohms my question is my coil bad ??? thanks for any answers .
 
Unplug the kill wire, with no plug in the cylinder, plug in a new plug and hold it's side against the block, and pull the rope, and look for spark. Do it in a dark room. If you have no spark, then the coil is bad.

That's the way I check coils


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Even with a good quality multi-meter, you'll pull out your hair trying to figure out if your coil is bad using the manual.
Just do the "sparky-no sparky" test .....

Does the OP have a saw or just a loose coil in a box?


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Does the OP have a saw or just a loose coil in a box?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Does the OP have a saw or just a loose coil in a box?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
i got an echo cs-400 that i can't get to start again , rebuilted carb with new kit , remove caps on l an h i got spark any ideas ??
 
The oppama ignitions key their timing off the capacitor embedded into the module. This is why there is a primary resistance test. If your primary resistance test is off, the module is bad. Whats up is the module may spark, but it wont spark at the right time. Check your air gap and retest before you replace it.
 
The oppama ignitions key their timing off the capacitor embedded into the module. This is why there is a primary resistance test. If your primary resistance test is off, the module is bad. Whats up is the module may spark, but it wont spark at the right time. Check your air gap and retest before you replace it.
So you are saying that his coil is bad?
Shouldn't he at least look for other reasons that his chainsaw won't start?

Like a scored piston? Sheared flywheel key? Maybe he has a cheapo multi meter that is not accurate.

I am all for exploring the saw, and saving someone a lot of time and money. {Mainly, the poor e-bay seller.....}
 
Or you suggest that it may just be the "air gap"???
What would that have to do with the coil being bad?

Not trying to pick a fight, but a new coil is likely expensive for this one.
 
So you are saying that his coil is bad?
Shouldn't he at least look for other reasons that his chainsaw won't start?

Like a scored piston? Sheared flywheel key? Maybe he has a cheapo multi meter that is not accurate.

I am all for exploring the saw, and saving someone a lot of time and money. {Mainly, the poor e-bay seller.....}
near all others reasons have been checked no score piston no sheared flywheel key the leak test in not done no tools to do it may be the seals on crank??? i am not a small engine mechanic just chainsaw user for almost 40 years. never had a chainsaw that i coudn't make running , i hit the wall with this us made ECHO cs-400
 
I'm not sure how the warranty works, but I believe Echo has a lifetime warranty for ignition modules. It may be parts only, so you might be on the hook for labor charges to diagnose & replace at an authorized repair center.

If you end up wanting to install another coil yourself, used coils look like they sell for $40 or less on ebay.

As some others have suggested, you could check the flywheel key to make sure it hasn't sheared and is causing the timing to be off. I have experienced that condition with some small engines where it has strong spark, but is out of time due to the position of the flywheel not being correct because of a sheared key.
 
near all others reasons have been checked no score piston no sheared flywheel key the leak test in not done no tools to do it may be the seals on crank??? i am not a small engine mechanic just chainsaw user for almost 40 years. never had a chainsaw that i coudn't make running , i hit the wall with this us made ECHO cs-400
So, does it spark when just tested with a plug?
 

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