I'm looking for a new log splitter

[sundance]

All good points. I may put off a new splitter until the budget allows for a better machine.
I do know my 22 ton can't split live oak. Could be the pump is getting weak after 15 years and several thousand cords of wood.
My tree digger gets weak over time and it's always the pump.
I may try a new pump if there cheap enough and see if I see any improvement in the old splitter. I'm gonna need a new machine soon though.

Could you split the live oak in the past? If so likely cylinder or pump......if not, why would it change?

 

[sb47]

You could try replacing the cylinder. There are available from the Surplus center.com relatively cheap. Or you can try eBay. It could be after all that time the cylinders worn out and it's leaking internally causing it to lose force or pressure. I would guess that cylinder can be bought for between $199 and $300

I have a hydrolic shop that we use to rebuild cylinders off the tree spade at work. Not sure what they will charge to repack the seals on such a small cylinder.
I'll have to measure it and call and see. I never tried live oak until the splitter already had a lot of hours on it. The motor is on it's last leg as well, that's another 200 bucks.
My old splitter needs wheel bearings and seals, new motor, and possibly a new pump and or cylinder. So I'm looking at at least 600+ to get it up to speed. Oh, and the hoses are looking old and dry rotted as well. Tires are old and dry rotted too.

 

[ChoppyChoppy]

Only thing I am gonna say about a lift is that if you raise a 35"x18"(approx 650lbs) round of white Oak up to split your going to have 2 pieces 325lbs to deal with very quickly when it busts in half. You need to have a plan beyond a lift getting up on the beam.
Be careful with your new machine.

I don't think a block of oaks weighs that much! If so, a cord would weigh around 16,000lbs!

 

[Knobby57]

I’ve seen the relief valve spring get week after some age and use . You may want to check your working pressure . May just need a ajustment before you dump some cash on a new pump

 

[Ryan'smilling]

I’ve seen the relief valve spring get week after some age and use . You may want to check your working pressure . May just need a ajustment before you dump some cash on a new pump

I was gonna suggest Teeing in a pressure gauge also. Should at least let you know where to start looking. Doesn't cost much.

 

[sb47]

I was gonna suggest Teeing in a pressure gauge also. Should at least let you know where to start looking. Doesn't cost much.

Where can I get a pressure gauge? Harbor Freight maybe?

 

[Ryan'smilling]

Where can I get a pressure gauge? Harbor Freight maybe?

Jesus, no!! 2500 psi, remember?? Northern tool, Bailey's, surplus center, Amazon, your local shop that rebuilds cylinders, a tractor dealership, etc. You'll need a T with the appropriate threads also.

 

[sundance]

Make sure to use high pressure fittings as well.

 

[Knobby57]

Jesus, no!! 2500 psi, remember?? Northern tool, Bailey's, surplus center, Amazon, your local shop that rebuilds cylinders, a tractor dealership, etc. You'll need a T with the appropriate threads also.

Haha that’s was the first thing to go through my mind also . Over 1000 psi of any fluid can get ugly really really fast . You do not want to get hit with a steam of oil at that pressure . It will not end well . I use a otc oil pressure gauge set . One gauge in the kit goes to I think 250 psi and the other is I think 5000 psi . It has all sorts of fittings in the kit as well for hooking to equipment . You will need to come up with a t fitting of some sort . Black pipe flitting is a huge no no . High pressure fitting only . I think I paid about 150 $ for the entire kit and it’s handy if you are dealing with needing to know pressure . You can tee in a stand alone gauge that has a 1/4 pipe thread . I just looked a otc tonnage gage is about 80-140 $ depending on pressure , there are cheaper ones down to 2
15-20$ on amizon but I don’t think I would trust them all that much . If you want put the gauge I a protected place you can see and monitor it’s presure over time and leave it . I’ve been wanting to have a gauge mounted on mine .. You only will need a gauge that 0-5k psi . Don’t go past 3000 on your pressure . If your hoses look at all in poor shape change them now and maybe your fluid and filter also . I’m a cheaper so I tend to let my return hoses get pretty ugly before I change them . Return lines don’t operate at high pressure .

 

[sb47]

Haha that’s was the first thing to go through my mind also . Over 1000 psi of any fluid can get ugly really really fast . You do not want to get hit with a steam of oil at that pressure . It will not end well . I use a otc oil pressure gauge set . One gauge in the kit goes to I think 250 psi and the other is I think 5000 psi . It has all sorts of fittings in the kit as well for hooking to equipment . You will need to come up with a t fitting of some sort . Black pipe flitting is a huge no no . High pressure fitting only . I think I paid about 150 $ for the entire kit and it’s handy if you are dealing with needing to know pressure . You can tee in a stand alone gauge that has a 1/4 pipe thread . I just looked a otc tonnage gage is about 80-140 $ depending on pressure , there are cheaper ones down to 2
15-20$ on amizon but I don’t think I would trust them all that much . If you want put the gauge I a protected place you can see and monitor it’s presure over time and leave it . I’ve been wanting to have a gauge mounted on mine .. You only will need a gauge that 0-5k psi . Don’t go past 3000 on your pressure . If your hoses look at all in poor shape change them now and maybe your fluid and filter also . I’m a cheaper so I tend to let my return hoses get pretty ugly before I change them . Return lines don’t operate at high pressure .

Thanks, I have been repairing and replacing hydrolic lines, pumps and cylinders on my Big John tree spad for 30 years. I'm well aware of of the pressures I'm dealing with. I just had a thought. My tree spade has a gauge on it. I might just borrow that one to check my pressure, instead of buying one. I don't really need to monitor it full time. I just need an idea of where it is at this point.
I would love a high production machine and I think I have the volume to support it. However like always, there's always something that comes up that takes my spending money I had saved up. I may have to limp along on my currant splitter until the budget will allow me to get what I need and want. My budget is around 4 grand at this point, enough to get the 40 ton unit that I was looking at, but it's not enough to get a high production unit that I really want and need.

 

[blades]

15 ton will split anything just about with the proper wedge, wide wedges eat a lot of power up, pop stuff apart fairy quickly. Thin wedges slice through just about everything. I use a thin wedge with a spreader in behind. But it just me and I ain't in no big hurry ( that just gets ya hurt). multi split wedges of various designs all require quite a bit more omph. They sure seem to make a lot of kindling though. I have used a 4 way wing type- more trouble than it was worth to me. Only thing I can say is, if going to use a multi split wedge the unit better be designed for that in the first place. There is a lot more stress being put on and transmitted to the beam , push plate, & wedge assembly.

 

[Andyshine77]

15 ton will split anything just about with the proper wedge, wide wedges eat a lot of power up, pop stuff apart fairy quickly. Thin wedges slice through just about everything. I use a thin wedge with a spreader in behind. But it just me and I ain't in no big hurry ( that just gets ya hurt). multi split wedges of various designs all require quite a bit more omph. They sure seem to make a lot of kindling though. I have used a 4 way wing type- more trouble than it was worth to me. Only thing I can say is, if going to use a multi split wedge the unit better be designed for that in the first place. There is a lot more stress being put on and transmitted to the beam , push plate, & wedge assembly.

I like to keep the wedge on my 22T splitter really sharp, that way it will cut right through anything.

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[sb47]

I like to keep the wedge on my 22T splitter really sharp, that way it will cut right through anything.

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Mine was so sharp, I cut myself several times just bumping into it. I had to knock the edge off a little just for safety reasons.

 

[Andyshine77]

Mine was so sharp, I cut myself several times just bumping into it. I had to knock the edge off a little just for safety reasons.

Is live Oak really that hard to split? I'm thinking something might be up with your splitter, checking the pressure is definitely a good place to start. I've split a lot of wood with my 22T Huskee and have only stopped it one time on a nasty crotch. If the wood is really large I just noodle it up instead of wrestling with it.

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[sb47]

Is live Oak really that hard to split? I'm thinking something might be up with your splitter, checking the pressure is definitely a good place to start. I've split a lot of wood with my 22T Huskee and have only stopped it one time on a nasty crotch. If the wood is really large I just noodle it up instead of wrestling with it.

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Live oak is kinda stringy with a grain that is kinda weaved together. Even strait grained live oak is weaved together and doesn't come apart very easy. Live oak that grows in the open, never has any strait grain wood. It's full of knots and branches that are close together and twist and lots of crooks. It doesn't pop apart like red oak. You have to do a full stroke on every split and the pry it apart. It's one of the best oaks for firewood and cooking. The old splitter has no problem getting through knotty post oak and red oak, She struggles with pecan a bit too. Bear in mind I split green wood, not dry. Log wood doesn't keep well in my area. It punks out fast if you don't get it busted up fairly quick.

 

[Lee@themancave]

Best deal right now is probably the woods 27 ton, with an 8hp Koehler motor... $999.99. Horizontal and vertical operation.

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[Cody]

I have been thinking of putting on a lift crane to lift the rounds. I just found this vid that shows what I thought about trying. Seems someone else had the same idea.

Wow! I really like that one, can see a few changes I'd make but otherwise spot on. My favorite thing about hydro splitters are all the scraps and small pieces.

This one looks hard on the back. See the way he is standing? Looks like he is leaning forward. That would make my back cry uncle in no time.

Agreed, bending over and back up doesn't bother me, but being bent over for any period of time strains my back pretty good.

I don't think a block of oaks weighs that much! If so, a cord would weigh around 16,000lbs!

I don't think so either, 250-300 maybe. Dad always wanted to split rounds whole, just didn't make sense to me to try and split a 3' diameter round with an 8" wedge, nor did it make sense to have that much weight up off the ground in that scenario.

 

[Andyshine77]

Live oak is kinda stringy with a grain that is kinda weaved together. Even strait grained live oak is weaved together and doesn't come apart very easy. Live oak that grows in the open, never has any strait grain wood. It's full of knots and branches that are close together and twist and lots of crooks. It doesn't pop apart like red oak. You have to do a full stroke on every split and the pry it apart. It's one of the best oaks for firewood and cooking. The old splitter has no problem getting through knotty post oak and red oak, She struggles with pecan a bit too. Bear in mind I split green wood, not dry. Log wood doesn't keep well in my area. It punks out fast if you don't get it busted up fairly quick.

Sounds similar to Rock Elm, I hate splitting the stuff, if you get the wrong piece you'll wind up with a big loose ball of wood lol.

I mostly split green as well, at least in the passed, most everything now is dead Ash and some Hickory.

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[Andyshine77]

Wow! I really like that one, can see a few changes I'd make but otherwise spot on. My favorite thing about hydro splitters are all the scraps and small pieces.



Agreed, bending over and back up doesn't bother me, but being bent over for any period of time strains my back pretty good.



I don't think so either, 250-300 maybe. Dad always wanted to split rounds whole, just didn't make sense to me to try and split a 3' diameter round with an 8" wedge, nor did it make sense to have that much weight up off the ground in that scenario.

I agree, I split everything with the splitter setup vertically. I line the rounds up next to me, sit on one of the logs and split away.

Few weeks ago before I had minor surgery. This Elm filled the truck up with four loads this size.

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[Sandhill Crane]

Mine was so sharp, I cut myself several times just bumping into it. I had to knock the edge off a little just for safety reasons.

I blunt the top corner with a file. Have back handed it several times, or had wood shift/pivot and I've bump the top corner of the wedge. Now it just leaves a dent or scrape vs a messy cut.