Indoor wood furnace

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muddstopper

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I have been considering changing out my old wood stove for a wood furnace. Stove is located in basement pretty close to the heatpump system. Duct work and return are almost right above the stove. Anyways, The hotbast sold by Tractor Supply is about the only thing available around here. They usually put them on sale near the end of heating season so I might pick one up. Looking for Hotblast owners for likes and dislikes. How well do they heat, how long are the burn times, and anything else i need to know before I take the plunge.
 
I have been considering changing out my old wood stove for a wood furnace. Stove is located in basement pretty close to the heatpump system. Duct work and return are almost right above the stove. Anyways, The hotbast sold by Tractor Supply is about the only thing available around here. They usually put them on sale near the end of heating season so I might pick one up. Looking for Hotblast owners for likes and dislikes. How well do they heat, how long are the burn times, and anything else i need to know before I take the plunge.


I've got a USSC 1600 which is the big brother to the Hotblast..all I can say is they throw a ton of heat, they're not very controllable and they have "OK" at best burn times. With that said its never failed to heat my house for the last ten years.
 
Englader 28-3500 owner here. Wouldn't trade it for the world. Heats out 2000sqft drafty farm house as wafrm as we care to make it in the coldest of weather and all day burns are easy to achieve.

That said there is no way I would want to own a hot blast. I have a friend with one in his shop. Its hard to cotrol at best and eats wood like there is no tomorrow compared to my englander.

In short, keep the stove or buy a better quality furnace than the hot blast.

Just my .02. Ymmv
 
The Woodblast is probably responsible for turning more people off wood burning than any other. Tons of <1 year old HB for sale on CL around here almost year around. Bar none, by far the most single model "hits" when you search "wood burner" on CL locally. About the only thing positive that I can say I have heard about the HB is that will throw some heat...for a couple hours...then it is time to load 5 CF of wood again.
Where's @blades at? He'll tell you about life with a woodblast...
 
I have a hotblast, installed it 3 years ago. It heats my house great and burn times are plenty long enough to make it through the work shift or overnight. It is better than an englander 28-3500 in my opionion. My uncle has an englander and his burn times and heat output is less than mine. The englander also moves less air and the ash removal is a mess.
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My current stove will heat the house enough to make you open the doors on a cold day. It also eats wood. My goal is to use less wood and have a system that is actually ducted to each room. While I can heat my house with the current stove, heat distribution isnt the best. Seems the opinions of the the above listed stoves is either love it or hate it. While the Hotblast is available locally, I talked to a actual owner of one after i started this thread. He kept it for a year and got rid of it, so I am skeptical about the Hotblast already. Give me some more options.
 
I have one. Also got on sale at TSC. Its the 1557m.

For the money, im not sure it can be beat. Uses as much or less wood than most of the water stove owners i know. It really just depends on how hot you want your house. I find mine to be pretty controllable after much trial an error (id say your friend sold out before he found its sweet spot).

Its basically my only form of heat besides a couple infrared space heaters.

I hardly ever have issue with burn times, the firebox is huge, only on the coldest nights when i have the damper open more than normal do i have to restart a fire. Almost always there are coals after 8+ hours.

The ash is easy to clean out.

Mine is outside in my carport, so it would do better in a basement.
 
What is the square footage you are looking to heat, and how tight/insulated is your home? We heated this house with a hotblast for almost 25 years. The thing went thru at least 4 sets of grates, and a rebuild. It would run us out of the house, but eat alot of wood. I remember the last month we used it was in march, and we burned over a cord that month. I could've gotten longer burns, but the furnace caused 2 chimney fires, and it would plug a chimney fast. It required a firebox full of rounds to go overnight, and I would load as late as possible. When it got cold, if I didn't wake at 4-5 o'clock, the furnace would be stone cold. I finally sold it for 200 dollars and upgraded to a modern unit. The best choice I made.
 
Ahhh yes... the annual Hot Blast thread.

Your gonna' get two thought lines... but not much in between the two extremes.
1) I absolutely hate/hated that wood-gobbling, creosote-making, short-burning POS‼
2) I absolutely love/loved that workhorse heat-making machine.

I've never owned a Hot Blast, but I know of a few around the area... I don't hear the same complaints about them as I read on this board. Excessive creosote don't seem to be an issue, likely because the further north you live the more often you'll be running it hot(er) 'n' heavy(er). Wood-gobbling and short burn times is a perception thing... I mean... if ya' need more heat, ya' need to burn more wood at a faster rate (shrug). Most of the complaints I hear are about the thermostatic/bi-metal control and noisy, ineffective circulation blower(s).

That thermostatic control probably has more to do with creosote formation than anything; more wood in the firebox means more heat, so a low or medium setting with a full fuel load is gonna' smolder more than a smaller fuel load. In other words... they make creosote because they're being over-loaded relative to heat demand. In any old-school(?), non-secondary combustion box there's a "sweet spot" where they run best... and that spot sort'a floats as conditions and demand change. Over-loading the box is worse than under-loading but you'll never get the "haters" to understand that... the "lovers" have figured it out. Running a box like that is more about loading technique, and near nothing about settings (once established)... how much, how often, and what type of fuel depending on conditions and demand. I've used boxes of that sort for decades (without the thermostatic control); once the flue damper and combustion air inlet is set I rarely touch them, maybe slight adjustments a couple times a year... "control" of the box is done with loading technique.

The circulation blowers supplied with those type of furnaces are a joke... if you're gonna' use it as a furnace it should have a large (full-size), multi-speed blower so it can be matched to your entire system. Short-cutting the install is another mistake. The "system" needs return air connected for efficient heat transfer and air flow... and back-draft dampers are a must to keep air (100% of it) moving correctly if it's installed as an add-on. And, a wood furnace ain't like a gas or oil furnace, it never "shuts off" completely or recovers as quickly, you need dampers installed in the individual ducts running to different rooms so you can "balance" the flow... especially to bedrooms and smaller rooms like the bathroom. It takes a bit of trial 'n' error, but once they're set you'll never need to touch them again.

My current wood furnace (DAKA) has a induction draft blower, which (in my opinion) is a much better approach than the thermostatic control on the Hot Blast. Rather than being controlled by furnace temperature, the induction blower is controlled by a (programmable) wall thermostat in the area being heated... controlled by demand rather than output. It rarely runs during the day unless it's extremely cold... it runs in the morning for a little bit, and sometimes again in the evening shortly after sunset (due mostly to the programmed settings of the t-stat). One problem I see with the Hot Blast is with the accessory add-on induction blower (if you choose to get it). From what I see by looking at them, it appears to blow air over the fire rather than under it. That's a poor and inefficient design in my opinion. After using it for a couple years now, I really love the induction blower set-up I have that forces air under the fire. So, because the Hot Blast induction blower is set-up the way it is, the Hot Blast would be a non-starter for me.

And speaking of non-starters... any furnace that requires letting the fire burn out to empty ashes, or even requires shoveling ashes, or requires special maintenance techniques such as cleaning heat exchanger tubes and such... would be a non-starter for me. I've always said... makin' firewood should be the hard part, burnin' it should be the easy part. But that's just me...
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Hot blast - Does it make heat in short yes, will it drive you to drink yes, I never overfilled the unit, it has a habit of running away due to the automatic overfire draft unit in the door. I finally just eliminated it. I never trusted that unit. it is a pain to load. best I could ever get out of it was about 4 hours of usable heat, blowers lasted about one season - bearings shot. only way to monitor fire is open door. don't care how much you tighten the latch assembly bolts, always come loose. and on and on- First off it is a coal unit as its primary purpose, wood is secondary and it is not optimized for same. There are / were others out there which suffer from the same problem. The 1557 is supposed to be a better unit - but quite frankly I never want to deal with USSC ever again. If you want to go the indoor wood furnace route thats fine but make dang sure the unit is designed for wood ( the Kuma is the top of the heap- I won't degrade it by calling it a Cadillac) also be aware that your current ducting is not going to match code for a solid fuel appliance. before the big hack there was a ton of information around. Big problem I see with indoor wood furnaces ( hot air units) is cost of units- most are not much more than a stove with a outside cabinet around it as a heat exchanger. As far as the bottom of the line hot blast is concerned it is about a 1/2 step above the old double 55 gallon drum set up. Read up on the Drolet Tundra- a little bit better unit - their Caddy unit is much better- but more importantly is the after sale service from that company vs USSC ( dang near non exsistant)
If you really want one come on over you can have it just got to get it out of the basement. Frankly I can build a better unit for about what it cost or less. For me it was a fast end to a means at the time. If I was flush I would get the Kuma- but only if I could also refit my place with a basement walk out. Hauling wood down the stairs - yuck, and/or storing a few days worth down there well you sometimes get some surprises.
 
My basement has double doors. My wood is stacked in the dry down in the field. I load up the gator and just back it inside right up to the stove. Sometimes I just leave the wood on the gator until it is empty and if they are calling for a long cold spell, I might stack a load beside the stove and then reload the gator just so I dont have to go outside when its cold and wet.

I realize that there is a big difference in price between the hotblast and the Kumma. Initial price isnt the concern, its the long term payback that would interest me the most. I get by just fine with my smoke dragon, but its hard to keep a little fire in it when the weather isnt really cold. It ends up being 80+degrees in the house. If its really cold, it takes a hundred trips a day to fill the stove.
Evenly heating the house is the big problem with my current stove. It sits in the middle of the basement and heat has to radiate thru the floor. I do have a open vent directly over the stove, but the center of the house will be hot and the bedrooms cold. Only advantage of my current stove is that once you get the basement warm, you can let the fire go out and all the masonary of the basement floor and walls will continue to radiate heat for a couple of days. I have a small work shop in the basement, so keeping the house warm, keeps the shop sweating hot. I am looking for something that can be better regulated when it comes to making heat, and something that can provide warm air to all parts of the house. I get tired of burning up sitting on the couch and freezing when I go to bed. I am also fixing to finish my carport into more living space, No way my current wood stove will be able to push heat out there. I figure if I go with a wood furnace, I can extend the duct work to the carport. Once the carport remodel is complete, I will be heating around 2000sqft total.
 
Might look at the Caddy or similar less than Kuma dosent have the refinements either. Do a search on the Kuma and or Caddy, Tundra should bring up more info. From fuzzy memory $ range- Kuma $5k, Caddy $3k, Tundra $2k- bottom line hot blast $1k
 
I wouldn't go too large. It sounds like your home heats pretty easy. If a woodstove takes you to 80, a hotblast will take you to 90. The Tundra may very well fit your need. Remember, the furnace will keep the basement warm on the radiant heat alone.
 
Now whitey don't go off 1/2 cocked , I was only making reference that for many years now forced air heating ducts as commonly installed do not conform to national code for solid fuel appliances ie clearances. You and the op and anyone else are free to do as you please.
 
If it were me I would buy a epa certified Caddy , as far as heat output burn time wood use and square footage rating it'll do anything a kumma can do at half the price and its a quality proven unit throughout. If you opt for the big max caddy it'll heat a bigger area yet (3000 sq ft )and burn even longer . 12 + hour clean burns are mere child's play with a max caddy even a caveman can do it. Stove builders international has tested the max caddy at 19 hours rated burn time on a single load and I believe it
 
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