Inside the Echo 500P

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mweba

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This saw is an obvious Shindaiwa design all the way down to the trans caps. Four rubber body mounts, one nylon wrapped rubber handle av and rubber nipple limiters at the rear bottom.


500p by mweba1, on Flickr

Walbro wt 106 rubber intake isolated.


500p intake by mweba1, on Flickr

Inboard clutch with adjustable oiler


500p inboard by mweba1, on Flickr

Nice flock air filter that splits for cleaning. Also needs to be mentioned, the seems needs grease, other wise it leaks fines.


500p filter by mweba1, on Flickr
 
Under the clutch.


500p case by mweba1, on Flickr

Muffler is completely hollow. No cat and just one very short tube with tine outlets.


500p muffler by mweba1, on Flickr

Although it has been oiling fine, I found the the drive worm assembly is trashed...


Trashed oiler by mweba1, on Flickr

Going to have to order another before stock vids are taken.
 
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I'm curious; what are your impressions?

Are you going to mod anything on it?

Thanks in advance.

motobike

Generally I'm a fan of Echo equipment for the price point and build quality. This saw is no exception, parts are reasonable and the dealer network is substantial. The cut speed is not on par with the big three but its close enough for the 95% of the population that have not been corrupted by this site :msp_rolleyes:

Will get a video of it bone stock, with a mm and ported. Echo saws as a rule are stuffed up.
 
I've got another one of those on the bench right now Mitch. Interesting timing numbers in those. I'll be watching to see where you go with this one. :)
 
I've got another one of those on the bench right now Mitch. Interesting timing numbers in those. I'll be watching to see where you go with this one. :)

No kidding there. Off the top of my head....119 with 8 degrees blow down Intake was around 80 if I remember right. Squish is .049 Waiting for the camera to charge to get after this project today.

I'm going to do what anyone at home can manage with out machining. Unfortunately, to get the blow down where I'd like to see it, the base needs to be cut. We'll see how it responds :hmm3grin2orange:
 
No kidding there. Off the top of my head....119 with 8 degrees blow down Intake was around 80 if I remember right. Squish is .049 Waiting for the camera to charge to get after this project today.

I'm going to do what anyone at home can manage with out machining. Unfortunately, to get the blow down where I'd like to see it, the base needs to be cut. We'll see how it responds :hmm3grin2orange:

I've done a few of them. If you raise the exhaust compression suffers.......if you raise the transfers you ain't got any blowdown. We cut the squish and drop the jug quite a bit.....that gives it enough compression to work it over proper then. The carb is sorta small once the wick is turned way up though. :msp_ohmy:
 
I've done a few of them. If you raise the exhaust compression suffers.......if you raise the transfers you ain't got any blowdown. We cut the squish and drop the jug quite a bit.....that gives it enough compression to work it over proper then. The carb is sorta small once the wick is turned way up though. :msp_ohmy:

My plan is to see what can be had by the average guy at home. Later this winter I may revisit this saw with some machine work.....who knows.
 
Stock times :11 :10 :09 ::10

MM times :10 :09 :08 :08

Editing all the vids together.

Under the stock deflector is a tube that pulls out with out cutting. Remove the tube and open up the face of the deflector.


Untitled by mweba1, on Flickr

I like the sound of a dual port so I added one.


Untitled by mweba1, on Flickr

Also the gasket does not match the exhaust port, it will need to be trimmed.


Untitled by mweba1, on Flickr

Looks like a decent gain in cut times but the big difference is in throttle response. The saw revs much sharper.
 
Has it had a bit of a brake test? looks like a dark zone around an area of the band.
If so, any relation to the oiler gear trouble?

I've always preferred an inboard clutch for protecting the crank seals from things
like stray honeysuckle vines etc.
But when a chain brake gets hot, it seems to make a mess of the plastic
and an outboard clutch cover seems more practical (financially and labor wise) to replace nowadays.
 
Has it had a bit of a brake test? looks like a dark zone around an area of the band.
If so, any relation to the oiler gear trouble?

I've always preferred an inboard clutch for protecting the crank seals from things
like stray honeysuckle vines etc.
But when a chain brake gets hot, it seems to make a mess of the plastic
and an outboard clutch cover seems more practical (financially and labor wise) to replace nowadays.

Yes the brake got hot previous to me. The oiler gear from my investigation seems like a defective part. Called four dealers yesterday looking for this assembly and not one of them had ever ordered the part. It is the same gear in the 502S and 446S.

Makes no difference to me, inboard or outboard....they both cut wood.
 
I like the chain tension set up. Easy to get to and not built into the clutch cover.


Untitled by mweba1, on Flickr


Untitled by mweba1, on Flickr

Trans cap work. Most of the grinding involves a smooth cap to cylinder wall transition. Believe me, you will understand when you see it.


Untitled by mweba1, on Flickr

Once again, the port size is ok but the transition isn't the best.


Untitled by mweba1, on Flickr

Exhaust roughed in.


Untitled by mweba1, on Flickr

Cylinder skirt interferes with the lowers so i opened them up 372 style.


Untitled by mweba1, on Flickr
 
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In this sized wood, 3-4 seconds are good gains in my book. Add a 20" guide in 20" wood and the gap would only open. The power band is wider and more forgiving.



 

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