klickitatsacket
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I heard that WD-40 was developed for NASA as a water displacer for electrical contacts.
Installing a Piston.
- Thread starter doc874
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Freakingstang
Doctor Freakinstein
klickitatsacket said:
I don't know the history of WD-40, but being that it is highly flamable, I would think that to be very bad on high current contacts......
They have changed the formulation so that it is no longer flammable.Freakingstang said:
A Sthil dealer (DeWars) on the west side of town told me last year that he used to use it to start engines with.
He since has gone to the aerosol version of Sea Foam called Deep Creep. I have a little of the flammable WD-40 around. Another era gone.
RiverRat2
Serio Tree Freak
Assembly Lube
umpkin2: Ive always used whatever 2stroke mix I intend on runnin.... liberal wipe on tha cylinder piston & rings and a few drops on tha brgs.....
never had a problem, I could see how marvel mystery oil would work too,
ive never been to Deans shop but i would bet his mister bottle gets a work out,,,,,,,
No way on the lithium grease or any greaseopcorn:
As usual lakeside did his home work and Dean was pretty close too here is the history off of the WD web page:
In 1953, a fledgling company called Rocket Chemical Company and its staff of three set out to create a line of rust-prevention solvents and degreasers for use in the aerospace industry, in a small lab in San Diego, California.
It took them 40 attempts to get the water displacing formula worked out. But they must have been really good, because the original secret formula for WD-40—which stands for Water Displacement perfected on the 40th try—is still in use today.
umpkin2: Ive always used whatever 2stroke mix I intend on runnin.... liberal wipe on tha cylinder piston & rings and a few drops on tha brgs.....never had a problem, I could see how marvel mystery oil would work too,
ive never been to Deans shop but i would bet his mister bottle gets a work out,,,,,,,
No way on the lithium grease or any grease
opcorn:As usual lakeside did his home work and Dean was pretty close too here is the history off of the WD web page:
In 1953, a fledgling company called Rocket Chemical Company and its staff of three set out to create a line of rust-prevention solvents and degreasers for use in the aerospace industry, in a small lab in San Diego, California.
It took them 40 attempts to get the water displacing formula worked out. But they must have been really good, because the original secret formula for WD-40—which stands for Water Displacement perfected on the 40th try—is still in use today.
Last edited:
buck futter
ArboristSite Guru
maybe this is obvious but oil is often used to quench/eliminate arcs on electrical contacts and the oil is often quite flammable.
bcmktg
ArboristSite Operative
Big Woody said:
WD-40 was invented in 1953.
According to the company that makes WD-40: WD-40 literally stands for water displacement 40th attempt. That's the name straight out of the lab book used by the chemist who helped develop WD-40 back in 1953. Norm Larsen, was attempting to concoct a formula to prevent corrosion, a task which is done by displacing water. Norm's persistence paid off when he perfected the formula for WD-40 on his 40th try.
Rocket Chemical Company
WD-40 was invented by the three founders of the Rocket Chemical Company of San Diego, California. The team of inventors were working on a line of industrial rust-prevention solvents and degreasers for use in the aerospace industry.
WD-40 was first used to protect the outer skin of the Atlas Missile from rust and corrosion. Norm Larsen repackaged WD-40 into aerosol cans for consumer use and the product was sold to the general public in 1958.
Gypo Logger
Timber Baron
Come to think about i don't use any lube when installing a piston.
I just reverse engineer and say to myself, self, lets wear out the chrome on that cyl. by slidding some chrome rings on the cyl. walls....dry. It sure doesn't hurt to put a film of oil on the cyl. walls though.
John
I just reverse engineer and say to myself, self, lets wear out the chrome on that cyl. by slidding some chrome rings on the cyl. walls....dry. It sure doesn't hurt to put a film of oil on the cyl. walls though.
John
RiverRat2
Serio Tree Freak
Cool Photo
Gypo is that your truck????? and loader????? neat setupopcorn:
Hey were is the raft , do you really float it down river, not Maple, Huh???
Gypo Logger said:Come to think about i don't use any lube when installing a piston.
I just reverse engineer and say to myself, self, lets wear out the chrome on that cyl. by slidding some chrome rings on the cyl. walls....dry. It sure doesn't hurt to put a film of oil on the cyl. walls though.
John
Gypo is that your truck????? and loader????? neat setup
opcorn:Hey were is the raft
, do you really float it down river, not Maple, Huh???
your saw has a needle cage bearing and requires engine assembly grease. pack bearing throughly. install rings with open ends opposite of each other. place piston n rings in jug be sure 2 use 2 stroke mix oil and coat cylinder first. after u set rings n piston in well oiled jug place piston n jug on crank case then u install wrist pin and c clip this works a lot better then trying 2 put jug over piston after u attached piston 2 crank. keep your work area clean :rockn:
NWCS
Addicted to ArboristSite
pack the bearings? i hope not! why would you want to block the fuel/oil mix from getting to the bearings? it takes a while to wash out and by the time the fuel gets done washing it out enough to get in, is it too late? i WD-40 the bearings (both crank bearings, both con-rod bearings) and also the piston and cylinder. smokes like a beast upon initial startup but the saw is protected.
whatever you use, the fuel/oil mix should be able to easily wash it away, that means you should be using a liquid form of lube. no greases.
whatever you use, the fuel/oil mix should be able to easily wash it away, that means you should be using a liquid form of lube. no greases.
romeo
Addicted to ArboristSite
There is too much thought being put into this. I coat the piston with 30 weight, and dump a little into the crank a rod bearings too. Its all gone in 30 seconds of run time anyway.
Some engine builders put them together dry and some use two cycle oil. I have always used two cycle oil.
romeo
Addicted to ArboristSite
(WLL) said:gas does not or should not pass the rings gas does not lube the needle bearings use your head
Yes it does, thats why you premix it. No oil sump and the fuel charge is pulled through the crank case. We are not talking Chevy's here.
romeo
Addicted to ArboristSite
Dude are you for real??? Do you know how a 2-stroke works?
Lakeside53
Stihl Wrenching
(WLL) said:
:monkey: :monkey: :monkey: :monkey:
huh? My crank cases are all full of gas and the bearing must all be shot then!! so must a few million others!
Lakeside53
Stihl Wrenching
(WLL) said:fuel n gas mix on the down stroke is pulled into cylender above pistin not below where needle bearing is then its compressed lit and is realesed out exhaust
Sorry.... back to school for you!
The mix is pulled into the crankcase on the piston upstroke, then pushed up into the cyinder via the transfer ports on the piston downstoke...
something like that
