Introducing Brand New Wood Furnace to Market - The Drolet Tundra!

[Grey Ghost]

All I burn is ash right now. There's thousands of them dead and standing (or down) in Michigan. Ash coals don't seem near as good at heating as oak or other dense woods.

I've just had to re-learn burning techniques for these secondary burn furnaces. Some things are similar but many things are not.

 

[flotek]

Spadjen if cracking the door and running the flap wide open doesn't burn off the coal bed then I'd suggest there's not a strong enough draft in your setup

 

[Cpeder]

Flotek. What fan switch are you using.? Do you have a part number? It's different then a snap disk correct?

 

[Wisneaky]

Hello all. I just wanted to post a quick update about my furnace. This is my second season with it. Just started having some issues with performance. I have been getting about 12-15 hours burn time and it dropped to about 5 hours. I started inspecting everything. I noticed the vermiculite baffle is cracked right it half. I'm not sure what would cause this. But SBI is sending me a new one. I also noticed the handle on the door loosened up and there was a small gap around the door which probably is also affecting the burn time. This was an easy fix by just backing the screw out and setting the handle to the correct place and retightening the screw. I will report back on the performance once I get the new baffle. How is everyone else doing with their Tundra / Heatmax?

 

[Cpeder]

Well heck not as good as you. I've never had close to 12-15 hour burns. Even if my damper is shut all day long and I stuff the stove with maple and red oak medium sized spits the most I'll see is 8.hours. Today I got home 10hours after loading full and had a fine ash with a small hand full of coals that were buried in the ash. A small split and piece of paper I'm up and running. Don't get me wrong leaps and bounds better then my HB but 12-15 hours? I'd be tickled pink if I could do this. Even with the small amount of coals my draft was at .04

 

[spadjen]

Hello all. I just wanted to post a quick update about my furnace. This is my second season with it. Just started having some issues with performance. I have been getting about 12-15 hours burn time and it dropped to about 5 hours. I started inspecting everything. I noticed the vermiculite baffle is cracked right it half. I'm not sure what would cause this. But SBI is sending me a new one. I also noticed the handle on the door loosened up and there was a small gap around the door which probably is also affecting the burn time. This was an easy fix by just backing the screw out and setting the handle to the correct place and retightening the screw. I will report back on the performance once I get the new baffle. How is everyone else doing with their Tundra / Heatmax?

I had problems with mine the 2nd season and needed to be replaced. I noticed surface rust inside the firebox at the start of the season. I think that this would have an effect on the temperature sensors in the unit due to the moisture. I will be disconnecting the stove pipe at the end of the season from now on. I might leave the door part open as well to provide air flow. Make sure your damper is not sticking. There was an issue with the push road binding up and needed a small adjustment. If it is open, disconnect the power and see if the damper closes normal.

My baffle cracked too. Make sure you dont hit it when loading wood. Not sure if that was the problem or the heat. If it keeps happening I am going to have a piece of stainless fabricated with a ceramic blanket to replace it. This is what the caddy has if I am not mistaken.

 

[spadjen]

Flotek. What fan switch are you using.? Do you have a part number? It's different then a snap disk correct?

You asking me, flotek, or everyone? Not sure if you meant the fan snap disk. I replaced mine with an adjustable. I can try to find the part number if you need it.

Spadjen if cracking the door and running the flap wide open doesn't burn off the coal bed then I'd suggest there's not a strong enough draft in your setup

Coals have been less of an issue the last few days. It has been warmer out so not sure if that is helping. I did notice the draft dip to .03 a few times over the last few days. I have someone coming to install 6' more feet of chimney in the next few days. I will take more readings then.

 

[Wisneaky]

Well heck not as good as you. I've never had close to 12-15 hour burns. Even if my damper is shut all day long and I stuff the stove with maple and red oak medium sized spits the most I'll see is 8.hours. Today I got home 10hours after loading full and had a fine ash with a small hand full of coals that were buried in the ash. A small split and piece of paper I'm up and running. Don't get me wrong leaps and bounds better then my HB but 12-15 hours? I'd be tickled pink if I could do this. Even with the small amount of coals my draft was at .04

I started getting the good burn time after I found some white oak that was 2 seasons old. It's really nice and dry. When I was burning ash before I would only get 8 hours.

 

[Wisneaky]

I had problems with mine the 2nd season and needed to be replaced. I noticed surface rust inside the firebox at the start of the season. I think that this would have an effect on the temperature sensors in the unit due to the moisture. I will be disconnecting the stove pipe at the end of the season from now on. I might leave the door part open as well to provide air flow. Make sure your damper is not sticking. There was an issue with the push road binding up and needed a small adjustment. If it is open, disconnect the power and see if the damper closes normal.

My baffle cracked too. Make sure you dont hit it when loading wood. Not sure if that was the problem or the heat. If it keeps happening I am going to have a piece of stainless fabricated with a ceramic blanket to replace it. This is what the caddy has if I am not mistaken.

I asked the SBI tech if I could just use a steel plate as a baffle and he advised against it, but didn't say why. If it cracks again I'm definitely changing it out to steel.

 

[laynes69]

The Caddy now has a baffle made of C-Cast. The original baffles were stainless with a blanket and weight, but still would warp due to heat.

 

[spadjen]

I started getting the good burn time after I found some white oak that was 2 seasons old. It's really nice and dry. When I was burning ash before I would only get 8 hours.

How old was the ash?

I asked the SBI tech if I could just use a steel plate as a baffle and he advised against it, but didn't say why. If it cracks again I'm definitely changing it out to steel.

Did he say why? It may be that they just don't recommend modifying it at all. But they are the same manufacture as the caddy. So if the caddy has it and the tundra does not, then it was just a cost savings thing.

 

[spadjen]

The Caddy now has a baffle made of C-Cast. The original baffles were stainless with a blanket and weight, but still would warp due to heat.

I did not know that. What is c-cast. Same as whats in the tundra? I may still check a fabrication shop and give them the information you just gave. They would know if there is anything out there that may not warp. If you go thick enough it should not be a problem. But try installing a 4" thick piece of stainless. LOL

 

[laynes69]

C-cast is a lightweight baffle, I guess it's stuff used on space shuttles, rated at 3500 degrees. The Tundra uses the same baffles most other stoves use, which are fragile. I assume it's a cost cutter. They are made of vermicumite. As long as you don't hit a vermiculite baffle with the poker, ash rake or wood it should be fine. The baffles won't warp and they hold heat to the fire below.

 

[spadjen]

C-cast is a lightweight baffle, I guess it's stuff used on space shuttles, rated at 3500 degrees. The Tundra uses the same baffles most other stoves use, which are fragile. I assume it's a cost cutter. They are made of vermicumite. As long as you don't hit a vermiculite baffle with the poker, ash rake or wood it should be fine. The baffles won't warp and they hold heat to the fire below.

vermicumite......that's what I was thinking of. I will have to look into c-cast. Changing the baffle is a pain. Which do you have? how is it holding up?

 

[Wisneaky]

I honestly don't know why the baffle broke. I know I don't hit it with the poker. But possible a log hit it because I do fill an inch below the burn tubes. The tech didn't say why not to use steel, but I'd think a 1" steel plate wouldn't warp very easy. I also just noticed my burn tubes are warped a little.

 

[Cpeder]

Anyone will do. Right now I'm in the middle of trying to find a rotary switch to wire to my blower fan. It's a 4 speed but you have to move the wire to what speed u need. The factory setting its nice on warmer days but on cold days and nights fan speed 3 is better.

 

[Wisneaky]

Anyone will do. Right now I'm in the middle of trying to find a rotary switch to wire to my blower fan. It's a 4 speed but you have to move the wire to what speed u need. The factory setting its nice on warmer days but on cold days and nights fan speed 3 is better.

here is a switch http://amzn.com/B00H8S4YA4

 

[flotek]

Just about Any adjustable snap switch will do . They are probably all made in the same Chinese factory anyways

 

[Cpeder]

When it comes to fan switch I found many thanks. I also found wifi fan speed controls and other wifi modules that can control up to 30amps. I am amazed at all the technology out there and pretty darn cheap. This all appeals to my gadget interests/invention side. Amazing what's out there

 

[stihly dan]

Lowering the fan temp will help get heat out of the coals. 95* 100* that range. Chimney definitely is too short. Do you have ten ft horizontal from the top of chimney to anything else?