Introducing Brand New Wood Furnace to Market - The Drolet Tundra!

Rugged made
Wesspur
Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
No nothing within range of chimney that close. Does it matter if the snap disc is open or rise or close on rise? I found 1 or grainger 90 to 130 but closes on rise.
 
spadjen said:
What is c-cast
Click to expand...
I think it is rigid ceramic insulation board, could be wrong. I bought a 2'x3' sheet of the stuff for my furnace from a place on fleabay called skylinecomponents. Still not bulletproof like steel, but it will take high temps all day long with no effect to it. It's made for kilns and stuff, factory baffle in some stoves too. Search ceramic fiber board...
stihly dan said:
Do you have ten ft horizontal from the top of chimney to anything else?
Click to expand...
Isn't that 2' taller than anything within 10' horizontally?
 
I had the stainless baffle originally, but upgraded to the c-cast. I've ran the poker and wood into my baffle and left gouges in it, but nothing else. I think it's around an inch thick, maybe a hair thicker. It's hard to describe, almost sounds hollow, its soft but dense. There's some weight to it. I pull my tubes about 2 or 3 times per season, whenever it gets warmer and I clean the ash from the top of the firebox.
 
laynes69 said:
I had the stainless baffle originally, but upgraded to the c-cast. I've ran the poker and wood into my baffle and left gouges in it, but nothing else. I think it's around an inch thick, maybe a hair thicker. It's hard to describe, almost sounds hollow, its soft but dense. There's some weight to it. I pull my tubes about 2 or 3 times per season, whenever it gets warmer and I clean the ash from the top of the firebox.
Click to expand...
That description of your baffle sound exactly like the ceramic fiber board that I bought. Pretty easy to buy the material, fab your own baffle. Cuts with a serrated knife, holds up well, I've had mine a couple years now. Like you said, couple scars from hitting it but that's about it. Usually a sheet costs much less than buying (1) factory baffle, and a 2' x 3' sheet probably enough to make two baffles.
 
Well I'm adding a 5 speed switch off with 4 settings. A 5amp rotary switch. Should have it today. The only reasons I want it is for warmer days I'd rather use the factor low medium setting to keep the exchangers warmer. This should keep any condensation in check. But when it dips below 25 at night the next setting up gets the heat out of the vents with the added static pressure. The switch beats pulling of the plenum cover and moving wires around.
 
Cpeder said:
Well I'm adding a 5 speed switch off with 4 settings. A 5amp rotary switch. Should have it today. The only reasons I want it is for warmer days I'd rather use the factor low medium setting to keep the exchangers warmer. This should keep any condensation in check. But when it dips below 25 at night the next setting up gets the heat out of the vents with the added static pressure. The switch beats pulling of the plenum cover and moving wires around.
Click to expand...
I'd like to do a switch also. Right now I open it up and change it all the time too.
 
I'll put some pictures up once I get it done. Probably tomorrow. I just went all out on a nest and a video camera. Going to set it up in view of the stove then use the nest to open and close the damper as needed. Could even make the fan wifi to if it was really worth it. I like my gadgets but also gives me piece of mind being able to check to make sure the wife set the stove right while I'm at work or in the goose blind. Btw I finally Achieved a 10 hour plus cycle. Just over 10 hours now and still plenty of heat of a big bed of coals. Thanks to all the help from everyone on this site of course.
 
Cpeder said:
Well I'm adding a 5 speed switch off with 4 settings. A 5amp rotary switch. Should have it today. The only reasons I want it is for warmer days I'd rather use the factor low medium setting to keep the exchangers warmer. This should keep any condensation in check. But when it dips below 25 at night the next setting up gets the heat out of the vents with the added static pressure. The switch beats pulling of the plenum cover and moving wires around.
Click to expand...
Do you have a link?
 
Cpeder said:
I'll put some pictures up once I get it done. Probably tomorrow. I just went all out on a nest and a video camera. Going to set it up in view of the stove then use the nest to open and close the damper as needed. Could even make the fan wifi to if it was really worth it. I like my gadgets but also gives me piece of mind being able to check to make sure the wife set the stove right while I'm at work or in the goose blind. Btw I finally Achieved a 10 hour plus cycle. Just over 10 hours now and still plenty of heat of a big bed of coals. Thanks to all the help from everyone on this site of course.
Click to expand...
I also have a video camera set up to watch mine. I check it on my phone when I wake up in the middle of the night to see how full it is. Much better than getting up and walking down stairs to check it.
 
Cpeder said:
Not sure how to copy the link with iPad. Go to grainger.com and search rotary switch,sp3t,5connections
Click to expand...
grainger is a good place to buy from. They have a place about 80 miles from me so when I order from them I usually receive it the next day.
 
I actual thought about Doing that. But I didn't have enough switches and the cost of the switch i ordered was cheap enough and look better any how.
 
I decided to add two more sections of chimney making it a total of 22 feet. my draft has increased from .04-.05 to .05-.08 depending on where you are in the burn cycle or if the damper is open or closed. When the damper is open and the unit is burning a full load of wood, my draft is .07-.08 and flue temps of 650. It did spike to .09, but when that happens it drops back down likes its right on the edge. Prior to this I was only getting .04-.05 and 525 at the same point of the burn cycle. I know my draft is right on the edge of the maximum allowed, but I don't see any negative effects. Like excessive wood usage or high temperatures. It seems to operate better when at the end of the burn cycle. Also, when it calls for more heat it is quicker to respond. we will see how things progress over the next few days. This chimney is now past the peak of the roof, which helps with drown draft from the wind rolling over the roof top.
20150109_094000.jpg20150109_094111.jpg
20150116_083430.jpg 20150116_083346.jpg
 

Attachments

  • 20150116_083430.jpg
    20150116_083430.jpg
    22.6 KB
spadjen said:
I decided to add two more sections of chimney making it a total of 22 feet. my draft has increased from .04-.05 to .05-.08 depending on where you are in the burn cycle or if the damper is open or closed. When the damper is open and the unit is burning a full load of wood, my draft is .07-.08 and flue temps of 650. It did spike to .09, but when that happens it drops back down likes its right on the edge. Prior to this I was only getting .04-.05 and 525 at the same point of the burn cycle. I know my draft is right on the edge of the maximum allowed, but I don't see any negative effects. Like excessive wood usage or high temperatures. It seems to operate better when at the end of the burn cycle. Also, when it calls for more heat it is quicker to respond. we will see how things progress over the next few days. This chimney is now past the peak of the roof, which helps with drown draft from the wind rolling over the roof top.
View attachment 395156View attachment 395158
View attachment 395160 View attachment 395154
Click to expand...
I'm not sure where you live, but I know code for a chimney says it has to be 2' past peak of roof if within 10' of roof line. I can't tell from the picture how close you are to it.
 
Wisneaky said:
I'm not sure where you live, but I know code for a chimney says it has to be 2' past peak of roof if within 10' of roof line. I can't tell from the picture how close you are to it.
Click to expand...
2 feet past anything that is with in 10 feet. I am way past that. The support bracket polls are 8 feet horizontal
 
Wow that is hot for a tundra. I've never seen more then 350 with the inferred gun. My normal temps are 325 damper open and 175-215 damper closed. I tried to clean the chimney today and there was noting to clean. What wood are u burning? Do you know the MC of it? Also are u on the lowest fan setting or something?
 
Cpeder said:
Wow that is hot for a tundra. I've never seen more then 350 with the inferred gun. My normal temps are 325 damper open and 175-215 damper closed. I tried to clean the chimney today and there was noting to clean. What wood are u burning? Do you know the MC of it? Also are u on the lowest fan setting or something?
Click to expand...
probably using a probe thermometer. When I probe mine it's usually at 650f and outside temp with magnetic is usually around 300f. Outside flue temp is way different than inside flue temp. If I open my door and shoot the fire directly with my inferred thermometer it usually is 800f plus, I've had the gun maxed out at over 1100f
 

Similar threads

C
Is the Kumma my only real option?
Replies
17
Views
2K
Hulpio
Hulpio
T
Ramsplitter hd-30 review
Replies
1
Views
202
babybart
babybart
S
Need advice on picking out a bigger chain saw...
2 3 4
Replies
72
Views
4K
Mad3400
M
NewEngland ChainSaw Works
Want to Sell Ported Husqvarna 395xp
Replies
6
Views
2K
Brufab
Brufab
jblnut
Wood burning stove/fireplace in attached 3 season porch
Replies
5
Views
1K
Tim in NY
Tim in NY

Latest posts

Back
Top