Introducing Brand New Wood Furnace to Market - The Drolet Tundra!

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I had same problem. Check the hinge pins. The pins may be warped
Thanks for the feedback on the heat exchanger door. Good point regarding the pins. They are the weakest part of the door and likely are warped. I will check into that and keep you all posted. Thanks again!
 
Sorry I should have mentioned there is still a gap with the washer in place. The gap is on the outside of the washer. Surprised it doesn't leak smoke, even though I do smell some sometimes from it.
Definitely should send you a new one. That is not normal.
 
Thanks for the feedback on the heat exchanger door. Good point regarding the pins. They are the weakest part of the door and likely are warped. I will check into that and keep you all posted. Thanks again!

So I spoke with Drolet support and they seemed surprised that there was such a problem. I told them that I wondered if the pins could have warped and they said not likely. The tech mentioned that maybe the gasket was not in its proper location and that could cause the door to bind. Also said to look very closely at the collar that the door closes against and if it is a little warped I could tap it down with a hammer. I took at look and did notice a slight warp. Instead of tapping it with a hammer I put a pipe wrench on it and applied a bit of pressure to bend it down. It did not need to move much but the door now works perfect with no binding. The gasket does look a little fatter in that area. I'm thinking it was a combination of the gasket and the slight warping of the collar.
 
[QUOTE.="oldbloke, post: 5163135, member: 122427"]So I spoke with Drolet support and they seemed surprised that there was such a problem. I told them that I wondered if the pins could have warped and they said not likely. The tech mentioned that maybe the gasket was not in its proper location and that could cause the door to bind. Also said to look very closely at the collar that the door closes against and if it is a little warped I could tap it down with a hammer. I took at look and did notice a slight warp. Instead of tapping it with a hammer I put a pipe wrench on it and applied a bit of pressure to bend it down. It did not need to move much but the door now works perfect with no binding. The gasket does look a little fatter in that area. I'm thinking it was a combination of the gasket and the slight warping of the collar.[/QUOTE]

they are always surprised that there's a problem. Lol. glad it was a simple problem for you.for me I had to replace the pIns
 
Things have been great with the tundra for the past month but the past three days my draft is low. .03 when it's hot coals. Before it was .05 to 6. The temps are 25 right now high humidity no wind. I cleaned the chimney a week and a half ago even tho it didn't need cleaning. I'm having great secondary burns I'm just concerned with draft that low.
 
Weather can wreak havoc on draft, especially if a front comes thru. If you keep a tube in the flue pipe, make sure the end of it is open. I've been fooled before by a partially plugged tube on the manometer.
 
So this winter I've been cleaning my chimney once a month. I use a SootEater chimney brush. I have a 6" liner in my chimney. I'm wondering how much creosote you all get out of your chimney? Today I had about 4 cups worth. Seems like a lot to me. I've been burning white oak that's been seasoned two years. Moisture content is 15-20% tested with moisture meter. I'm not really worried about the creosote because it is just dry and flaky.
 
Greetings all! I am seriously considering a Tundra but I read a post from somebody that said you must use a 6" chimney. I installed an old stove in my basement last year with all new 8" double and triple wall pipe and I really don't plan on replacing a year old chimney. The concern was that the unit may not function properly on a 8" chimney but I'm not sure if the concern would be too much or too little draft. Anyone care to comment on this? The only draft problem I have now is too much. I don't have a Mano but I know I have a lot of draft. I will install a Mano on the new furnace for sure and probably a baro. Thoughts?
 
Greetings all! I am seriously considering a Tundra but I read a post from somebody that said you must use a 6" chimney. I installed an old stove in my basement last year with all new 8" double and triple wall pipe and I really don't plan on replacing a year old chimney. The concern was that the unit may not function properly on a 8" chimney but I'm not sure if the concern would be too much or too little draft. Anyone care to comment on this? The only draft problem I have now is too much. I don't have a Mano but I know I have a lot of draft. I will install a Mano on the new furnace for sure and probably a baro. Thoughts?
First Make your font bigger. It is too small.
The bigger chimney would cause too much draft. I think if you just put a barometric damper in you should be fine. You'd have to do 6" from the stove and increase to the 8" at the chimney.
 
Ok, great! That's what I was hoping to hear. I don't know what happened with the font, fat fingers I reckon, lol.
 
Ok, great! That's what I was hoping to hear. I don't know what happened with the font, fat fingers I reckon, lol.
Should I use a 6" or 8" Baro and how close should it be to the furnace? Also, should I also use a manual pipe damper as well? I'm only used to leaky old coal burners, not a hi-tech wood burner. Thanks much for the help!
 
Wow, good thing I have good eyesite! :laugh:
Brant, you'll have too much draft when on high fire and not enough the rest of the time because the draft velocity will be too slow allowing it to cool too much. 8" chimney is almost double the flow of a 6" FYI. 8" is ~48 sq in vs ~27 for a 6". Nothing but problems!
Just drop a cheap 6" flex liner kit down the existing chimney...problem solved!
Oh BTW, if you haven't seen it yet, check out Menards.com...$1250 Tundras through 1/31/15. Hope you have one nearby!
 
Should I use a 6" or 8" Baro and how close should it be to the furnace? Also, should I also use a manual pipe damper as well? I'm only used to leaky old coal burners, not a hi-tech wood burner. Thanks much for the help!
baro is supposed to be as close to the furnace as possible. The recommend no manual damper, but I was having problems with the baro so I just took it out and now use a manual damper. I don't know how high your draft will be with the 8" chimney. You'll have to test it with a meter. You'll of course have better draft with the right size chimney, but since you already installed a new 8" liner I'd just work around it with a baro or manual damper. One or the other but not both. Test the draft with a meter your best bet. Buy the Tundra at Menards. Great price right now.
 
Woohoo! I pulled the trigger on the Tundra this morning! I'm sure I'll have more questions when I actually install it. Thanks for the heads up about Menards having a sale, funny thing is, I had checked Menards earlier in the day and it was not on sale, just the 11% rebate. I couldn't pass it up at the sale price!
 
Thanks for the heads up about Menards having a sale, funny thing is, I had checked Menards earlier in the day and it was not on sale, just the 11% rebate. I couldn't pass it up at the sale price!
Yeah, I didn't notice anything until the site updated while I was on there. I had to log out and come back in just to make sure I was seeing the prices right! :surprised3:
 
Woohoo! I pulled the trigger on the Tundra this morning! I'm sure I'll have more questions when I actually install it. Thanks for the heads up about Menards having a sale, funny thing is, I had checked Menards earlier in the day and it was not on sale, just the 11% rebate. I couldn't pass it up at the sale price!

Me thinks you are going to have issues with the new unit on that chimney. Just sayin, chimney is the most important part of wood heating.
 
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