Iowa 2015 Fall GTG (October 17, 2015)

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Stihlx8 has a good point that having a contractor do the excavator work will probably be cheaper than you renting the excavator, paying for the fuel, & delivery/pick-up of the machine. If you were planning a month long job where you were paying for 3 weeks but getting 4 weeks of rental it might pay to rent.

Remember in most cases 8 hour on the hour meter is considered a day's rental. If you have it for 2 days but put 32hours on the machine you get charged for 4 day's rental.
I was getting some pretty rediculous numbers on track hoe work and I need a hoe big enough to lift my 9k # tube... The companies with bigger equipment want $4k just to put the equipment on site plus time it runs, plus operator time.

$$$$$$
$17-$25k price tags.

Cheaper to rent from what I've found in my case.


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New thought on pump. Put in large field tile to to bypass culvert for water during construction. Then just leave it in. How about crane to set culvert. Smaller excavater to do digging? Just some ideas to help with costs.
 
Cranes are pricey too and hard to move around my power lines that cross the driveway where the tube needs to go under. Digging bypass would be a huge amount of work if you saw the situation.

I might take a video of everything when I get home....


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I was getting some pretty rediculous numbers on track hoe work and I need a hoe big enough to lift my 9k # tube... The companies with bigger equipment want $4k just to put the equipment on site plus time it runs, plus operator time.

$$$$$$
$17-$25k price tags.

Cheaper to rent from what I've found in my case.


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GET A NEW CONTRACTOR

That is absurd!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! $ 4000 to show up???????????????????????????

You are only 150 miles from me. There are guys that would easily drive out there do the work and return home for that. You need to price around. The rental is going to be $1800 plus delivery based on 40 hrs on the machine. You should easily be able to get someone to do that job for $2000 total
 
GET A NEW CONTRACTOR

That is absurd!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! $ 4000 to show up???????????????????????????

You are only 150 miles from me. There are guys that would easily drive out there do the work and return home for that. You need to price around. The rental is going to be $1800 plus delivery based on 40 hrs on the machine. You should easily be able to get someone to do that job for $2000 total

I would hope that $17-25k would include trucking in proper back fill and pouring concrete embankments.
 
I would hope that $17-25k would include trucking in proper back fill and pouring concrete embankments.
That was for the total install of the culvert. Welding on skirts, dirt work, setting in tube, back and top fill, and grade 5 rip rap on the banks on both sides.

Can't concrete for a year or two on the top until dirt settles in...


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That was for the total install of the culvert. Welding on skirts, dirt work, setting in tube, back and top fill, and grade 5 rip rap on the banks on both sides.

Can't concrete for a year or two on the top until dirt settles in...


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the bad part is, between now and next summer..without concrete,,its liable to rip it all out again with high water....how about sand/rock mix, tamp it,,and pour the crete????
 
GET A NEW CONTRACTOR

That is absurd!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! $ 4000 to show up???????????????????????????

You are only 150 miles from me. There are guys that would easily drive out there do the work and return home for that. You need to price around. The rental is going to be $1800 plus delivery based on 40 hrs on the machine. You should easily be able to get someone to do that job for $2000 total


Yes of course I am pricing around... BIG back hoes that can lift 10' diameter, 9k lb culvert off the ground and walk to the hole seem to be in short supply around here due to the road construction season. Also there are other projects around the acreage i would like to do while the equipment is here.

1: North side of my driveway needs a ditch cut in for water drainage

2: water redirection away from my shop.

3: channel to catch and drain water from lower level

So you can see why renting might be a good option so i can do all my dirt work in one weekend and just be done with it all. And the $4k to show up with the backhoe was a union group that was WAY over priced. I'm a petty big tight wad so I won't be spending if it does t make financial sense in the long run.


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the bad part is, between now and next summer..without concrete,,its liable to rip it all out again with high water....how about sand/rock mix, tamp it,,and pour the crete????
It will likely be a rock and clay mix. We would need another 7-8" rain to wash it out again which by all accounts should be likely after getting 3x rains that big in the last 2 years. Also if it washes out it will only be taking the top 1/2-1/3 of the fill since I will be filling the bottom with liquid mortar (watered down concrete). So re fill and tamp the top is the worst case scenario.

Also sand and rock backfill will wash out 100x quicker and easier. You want thick sticky arse clay with some rock to make a "locking matrix" (thanks shaun for the engineering lesson on that).


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It will likely be a rock and clay mix. We would need another 7-8" rain to wash it out again which by all accounts should be likely after getting 3x rains that big in the last 2 years. Also if it washes out it will only be taking the top 1/2-1/3 of the fill since I will be filling the bottom with liquid mortar (watered down concrete). So re fill and tamp the top is the worst case scenario.

Also sand and rock backfill will wash out 100x quicker and easier. You want thick sticky arse clay with some rock to make a "locking matrix" (thanks shaun for the engineering lesson on that).


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I stated that, because that would pack quick,,but would need crete over the top immediately...small rock, like 3/4 x 1 1/2 mix..be nice, but pricey, to go over the intake, road, and exit sides,,with concrete. end of problem.........................hopefully..
 
So to get back on track... I am thinking I will get a few small door prizes to give away but the big item will be a raffle/drawing 70-90cc rebuild saw from my shop. Will be oem or meteor and as close to 100% non Chinese as I can make it!

I was thinking 044/440 maybe or maybe something larger!!!


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I fully understand you want to get the thread back on track and I hope you do.

I just have to wonder though .................................

Did you get the job done for the $35,000????????

That defines HIGHWAY ROBBERY TO A NEW DEGREE

Grab a phone, listen to what folks advise you and go with honest guys. I am 3 hrs from you and I will tell you THERE IS NO person here that wuold EVER quote you that
 
I will not be paying near that. But consider this.

$2k in liquid mortor ($60/Yard)

$2-3k in grade 5 rip rap

$2k for Steel culvert

$500 for oxy torch

$2k in clay and sand fill.

A couple more incidentals and your easily at $10k in materials cost alone, and that's before steel to weld on for skirts and backhoe to drop it in. Bill you need to understand I am going as bullet proof as I can with this fix, for as cheap as I can. But I will not just drop the tube in the hole and pack it with dirt. That's how we got to this point were at right now.



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Also keep in mind i don't have the materials needed sitting on the corner. Most of the cost will be trucking in what I need.


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60 a yard?? up here..its 100!!!
That is liquid mortar. It's watered down concrete without rock. It's meant to seep into all the cracks under the culvert and fill all the voids to add weight and stability to the culvert. It isn't near as strong as concrete but still sets up hard and won't be washed out. It helps solve the problem of imperfect stream bed preparation.


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Ok so I've been asked several times about race cants and if we are doing a race(s). I was thinking about doing something easy if we do... Like husky 55 build off or 50cc/60cc build off?

We can always do the "run wut ya brung - $1" races...

Any thoughts?
 
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