Iridium Spark Plugs

[bwalker]

new cars really suck

Cars have never been more reliable, lasted as long, had better fuel economy or performed as well as they do now.

 

[cscltd]

Cars have never been more reliable, lasted as long, had better fuel economy or performed as well as they do now.

True, but when they need repair it’s just like fixing a 562xp-everything is buried compared to a 266xp
i have always found Bosch plugs to be horrible except in Stihl or husky’s For some reason.
I guess that’s why Germans drink warm beer-Bosch makes their fridges.

 

[bwalker]

True, but when they need repair it’s just like fixing a 562xp-everything is buried compared to a 266xp
i have always found Bosch plugs to be horrible except in Stihl or husky’s For some reason.
I guess that’s why Germans drink warm beer-Bosch makes their fridges.

I didn't find the 562 all that complex.

 

[PasoRoblesJimmy]

Iridium vs Ruthenium in your car (not your chainsaw). Which is better?

 

[PasoRoblesJimmy]

Champions are Chi-Com crap

AutoLite is better than Champion. Have never gotten a bad NGK or Denso spark plug. Have gotten bad Bosch spark plugs. E3 is a marketing-hype ripoff.

 

[cscltd]

I didn't find the 562 all that complex.

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I didn’t say it was complex, Nor was I limiting my technical skill!
I was comparing it to an older saw in repair times, you don’t have to remove flywheel to replace module on 266, nor hook wires to carb. Carb comes off it secs compared to 562, A pressure/vac test is faster on 266 etc
you missed the point of my post

 

[jellyroll]

AutoLite is better. Have never gotten a bad NGK or Denso spark plug. Have gotten bad Bosch spark plugs. E3 is a marketing hype ripoff.

I run standard autolites in everything i own without problems but i have nothing against ngk or denso but just say no to blue banded bosch plugs.

 

[Tony Mayhew]

Those plugs were made as a sells gimik in the automotive industry! They were convincing the public that they would not have to mess with tuning their new cars for one hundred thousand miles back in the late nineties early two thousands area. And as lazy as everyone was getting by that time in life,that sounded like alot of expense you wouldn't have to deal with anymore! Wrong! By then most engines had aluminum heads! And if there is one thing for sure that i can tell you is that you do not want to leave a sparkplug in an aluminum head for one hundred thousand miles! They literally almost become melted into the cylinder head and you stand a very good chance of cracking the head or stripping out the threads trying to get them out! At the least your gonna lose some skin off your knuckles by the time you get them all out! And your spark gap should be setting right around 80 to 90 thousandths And your rig running really rough! They are a low conductor of electricity and I did some experimenting on my 1999 Ford F-150 4x4 with a 5.4 liter triton engine and the platinum plugs actually kept the temperature down in the summer heat compared to the autolite sparkplugs.Gold is the best conductor of electricity and copper is the second best. And the way I have learned through the years about what works best for what you're putting a sparkplug in is to listen to what the manufacturer suggests that you run! They have done extensive research on your engine and if your equipment is from Germany you're probably going to get good results from a Bosch sparkplug and if it comes from Japan then it will run best with a NGK plug and if you're running alot of cylinder pressure then you need to tighten your sparkplug gap because it has a hard time jumping the gap the higher the pressure! And your not recommended to be using a sparkplug with a resistor or a letter R among the code telling you the heat range on the side of the sparkplug. And NGK says that for every number that you go hotter results in 70 to 100 degrees hotter in the cylinder temperature inside the combustion chamber of your engine. And the lower the number the hotter the plug is unless it is a Bosch sparkplug! And there numbers get hotter the higher the number is There you have it! Now eat your peas and get ready for bed there youngster!

 

[cscltd]

I always thought it was silver, copper, gold for best conductors as my grade 9 high school electrical teacher always told us?
but that was a long time ago in a town far, far away,,,,-lol
true-leaving plugs in cars for 100k asking for problems

 

[Chevboy0167]

Heat conductivity....




https://www.industrialmetalsupply.com/blog/best-metals-conducting-heat

 

[Chevboy0167]

Electrically conductive....

https://www.allmetalsfab.com/metal-best-conducts-electricity/

 

[bwalker]

Those plugs were made as a sells gimik in the automotive industry! They were convincing the public that they would not have to mess with tuning their new cars for one hundred thousand miles back in the late nineties early two thousands area. And as lazy as everyone was getting by that time in life,that sounded like alot of expense you wouldn't have to deal with anymore! Wrong! By then most engines had aluminum heads! And if there is one thing for sure that i can tell you is that you do not want to leave a sparkplug in an aluminum head for one hundred thousand miles! They literally almost become melted into the cylinder head and you stand a very good chance of cracking the head or stripping out the threads trying to get them out! At the least your gonna lose some skin off your knuckles by the time you get them all out! And your spark gap should be setting right around 80 to 90 thousandths And your rig running really rough! They are a low conductor of electricity and I did some experimenting on my 1999 Ford F-150 4x4 with a 5.4 liter triton engine and the platinum plugs actually kept the temperature down in the summer heat compared to the autolite sparkplugs.Gold is the best conductor of electricity and copper is the second best. And the way I have learned through the years about what works best for what you're putting a sparkplug in is to listen to what the manufacturer suggests that you run! They have done extensive research on your engine and if your equipment is from Germany you're probably going to get good results from a Bosch sparkplug and if it comes from Japan then it will run best with a NGK plug and if you're running alot of cylinder pressure then you need to tighten your sparkplug gap because it has a hard time jumping the gap the higher the pressure! And your not recommended to be using a sparkplug with a resistor or a letter R among the code telling you the heat range on the side of the sparkplug. And NGK says that for every number that you go hotter results in 70 to 100 degrees hotter in the cylinder temperature inside the combustion chamber of your engine. And the lower the number the hotter the plug is unless it is a Bosch sparkplug! And there numbers get hotter the higher the number is There you have it! Now eat your peas and get ready for bed there youngster!

A little anti seize on automotive plugs is a good thing. I run NGK double iridium plugs in all my vehicles at 100k change intervals.
As far as your German plugs in German saws. That's ridiculous. A saw is happy with about any plug and there isn't extensive research done by anyone on spark plugs..
As it pertains to heat range. A hotter heat range plug doesn't change the cylinder temp at all. It changes the temperature of the plug itself.
As far as listening to the manufacturer. For years I have used different heat range plugs in bikes and sleds. For instance in a MX bike or a sled I always run a NGK projected tip plug as long as the head to piston clearance allows it. In certain bikes I have ran an NGK 6 in place of a 9 or in high compression high strung engines I have used a 10 instead of an 8.

 

[Mad Professor]

I agree. Their quality has went to hell. Backnin the early 90's they were very good.

^^^ yep

Buy a BIG box of NGK before all production goes to Chi-Coms

I still have a stash of German Bosch, think they are all Chi-Com now.

 

[PasoRoblesJimmy]

A little anti seize on automotive plugs is a good thing. I run NGK double iridium plugs in all my vehicles at 100k change intervals.
As far as your German plugs in German saws. That's ridiculous. A saw is happy with about any plug and there isn't extensive research done by anyone on spark plugs..
As it pertains to heat range. A hotter heat range plug doesn't change the cylinder temp at all. It changes the temperature of the plug itself.
As far as listening to the manufacturer. For years I have used different heat range plugs in bikes and sleds. For instance in a MX bike or a sled I always run a NGK projected tip plug as long as the head to piston clearance allows it. In certain bikes I have ran an NGK 6 in place of a 9 or in high compression high strung engines I have used a 10 instead of an 8.

O2 sensors come with anti-sieze for good reason. A little dab of anti-sieze in AL heads will do you. Too much anti-sieze will foul your spark plugs. Spark plugs in AL should be torqued with a torque wrench.

 

[Chevboy0167]

https://www.repairsmith.com/blog/spark-plug-anti-seize/

 

[Tony Mayhew]

A little anti seize on automotive plugs is a good thing. I run NGK double iridium plugs in all my vehicles at 100k change intervals.
As far as your German plugs in German saws. That's ridiculous. A saw is happy with about any plug and there isn't extensive research done by anyone on spark plugs..
As it pertains to heat range. A hotter heat range plug doesn't change the cylinder temp at all. It changes the temperature of the plug itself.
As far as listening to the manufacturer. For years I have used different heat range plugs in bikes and sleds. For instance in a MX bike or a sled I always run a NGK projected tip plug as long as the head to piston clearance allows it. In certain bikes I have ran an NGK 6 in place of a 9 or in high compression high strung engines I have used a 10 instead of an 8.

No! A little anti seize is not a good thing on a sparkplug! And if your dumb enough to leave a sparkplug in for a hundred thousand miles then your a few frys short of a happy meal partner! And the information on cylinder temperature difference is information that is posted on YouTube by NGK and you better go read it for yourself! And when your done with that you might want to read the very valuable information chevboy 0167 posted! That is something I didn't know about but makes perfect sense. Thank you chevboy 0167! Grateful for that piece of information, I appreciate it when someone throws an old dog a bone instead of someone always trying to put a stick in a guy's spokes! And petting my fir backwards!

 

[bwalker]

No! A little anti seize is not a good thing on a sparkplug! And if your dumb enough to leave a sparkplug in for a hundred thousand miles then your a few frys short of a happy meal partner! And the information on cylinder temperature difference is information that is posted on YouTube by NGK and you better go read it for yourself! And when your done with that you might want to read the very valuable information chevboy 0167 posted! That is something I didn't know about but makes perfect sense. Thank you chevboy 0167! Grateful for that piece of information, I appreciate it when someone throws an old dog a bone instead of someone always trying to put a stick in a guy's spokes! And petting my fir backwards!

I dont need to check youtube... it's complete BS.
The change interval for many plugs is 100k miles . It's not the 70's anymore...
As for antiseize on aluminum automotive heads. You have to be retarded not to use it. Even with plated plugs they can and often do seize. When that happens your pulling the head to fix it right.

 

[cookies]

Oem installed plugs are installed without anti seize, they come out no problem unless they have a poor head design allowing the threads exposure to combustion gasses. My way is simple, based on the plugs thread design. Does it have a flange with washer? if no then the threads seal the plug in so it gets nickel or copper high temp anti seize, flanged with washer gets nothing. I install oem plugs 99% of the time in trucks/cars, I will use autolite in my own stuff or in somenes stuff thats broke. All plugs are copper core with most having a resistor, the resistor gets damaged over time and heat cycles. Its easily checked using a dvom, within 50 ohms of 5k and no wear to the electrodes or blowby staining they can be reused but my time is more valuable than plugs so new ones go in. For commercial use I replace them every time they come to me, they are only rated for 200 hours of use in small engines. Damaged plug resistors are the main reason for the majority of coil failures I see. Its very often the original plugs with over 100k miles with the owner saying "i pulled them and they looked fine to me". I tell folks to take 20k miles off the recommended interval to avoid failure problems from plugs in vehicles. Autolite makes a platinum plug for saws. Copper plugs conduct the best out of all others but the electrodes wear down faster. I simply buy a shop pack every couple years and change them in all saws I actually run that year, coils are expensive and some are becoming very difficult to find. I do highly recommend using non resister plugs in older saws that use points, a separate ignition chip or have the coil under the flywheel so they do not have to work as had to drive the plug.

 

[bwalker]

Oem installed plugs are installed without anti seize, they come out no problem unless they have a poor head design allowing the threads exposure to combustion gasses. My way is simple, based on the plugs thread design. Does it have a flange with washer? if no then the threads seal the plug in so it gets nickel or copper high temp anti seize, flanged with washer gets nothing. I install oem plugs 99% of the time in trucks/cars, I will use autolite in my own stuff or in somenes stuff thats broke. All plugs are copper core with most having a resistor, the resistor gets damaged over time and heat cycles. Its easily checked using a dvom, within 50 ohms of 5k and no wear to the electrodes or blowby staining they can be reused but my time is more valuable than plugs so new ones go in. For commercial use I replace them every time they come to me, they are only rated for 200 hours of use in small engines. Damaged plug resistors are the main reason for the majority of coil failures I see. Its very often the original plugs with over 100k miles with the owner saying "i pulled them and they looked fine to me". I tell folks to take 20k miles off the recommended interval to avoid failure problems from plugs in vehicles. Autolite makes a platinum plug for saws. Copper plugs conduct the best out of all others but the electrodes wear down faster. I simply buy a shop pack every couple years and change them in all saws I actually run that year, coils are expensive and some are becoming very difficult to find. I do highly recommend using non resister plugs in older saws that use points, a separate ignition chip or have the coil under the flywheel so they do not have to work as had to drive the plug.

If it has aluminum heads it gets antiseize. There is no risk if you use a torque wrench and adjust for the antiseize accordingly.

 

[bwalker]

Oem installed plugs are installed without anti seize, they come out no problem unless they have a poor head design allowing the threads exposure to combustion gasses. My way is simple, based on the plugs thread design. Does it have a flange with washer? if no then the threads seal the plug in so it gets nickel or copper high temp anti seize, flanged with washer gets nothing. I install oem plugs 99% of the time in trucks/cars, I will use autolite in my own stuff or in somenes stuff thats broke. All plugs are copper core with most having a resistor, the resistor gets damaged over time and heat cycles. Its easily checked using a dvom, within 50 ohms of 5k and no wear to the electrodes or blowby staining they can be reused but my time is more valuable than plugs so new ones go in. For commercial use I replace them every time they come to me, they are only rated for 200 hours of use in small engines. Damaged plug resistors are the main reason for the majority of coil failures I see. Its very often the original plugs with over 100k miles with the owner saying "i pulled them and they looked fine to me". I tell folks to take 20k miles off the recommended interval to avoid failure problems from plugs in vehicles. Autolite makes a platinum plug for saws. Copper plugs conduct the best out of all others but the electrodes wear down faster. I simply buy a shop pack every couple years and change them in all saws I actually run that year, coils are expensive and some are becoming very difficult to find. I do highly recommend using non resister plugs in older saws that use points, a separate ignition chip or have the coil under the flywheel so they do not have to work as had to drive the plug.

The other thing that kills coils is the gaps open up with wear almost always from the ground strap being eroded away. This is why having a durable center electrode is pointless if you also don't have the same material or similar the ground strap. This is why I use NGK double iridium with an iridium electrode and a platinum disk on the ground strap. The easily last 100k. I am on my 3rd set in my Tacoma and just installed the second on my daughter's car.
Sparkplug lasting 100k are just like 10k oil changes. Guys can't wrap their minds around it for some reason. However, technology improves and both are easily accomplished.