Is it time for an Echo stickie?

[Gamma Woods]

I’m also a fan of the grey Echos. Here’s my CS301, CS3450, and CS5000.

It was a bucket of busted 300, 340, 3000 and 3400 top handles that I grabbed for cheap that started my spiral. I would really enjoy a 670 or 6700 with the Timberwolf label, but they always seem to be just a little too far away or a little too pricey for something I'd rarely run and want just for the sake of having.

 

[Goofaroo]

It was a bucket of busted 300, 340, 3000 and 3400 top handles that I grabbed for cheap that started my spiral. I would really enjoy a 670 or 6700 with the Timberwolf label, but they always seem to be just a little too far away or a little too pricey for something I'd rarely run and want just for the sake of having.

I probably have around $80 in my three grey saws in the pic. That $80 would also include the CS3000 I gave my son in law. He uses it almost daily in his fencing business.
Fifty of the $80 went to the CS-5000 when I picked it up at a garage sale. The other three were either free or around $5.

They’re great saws and they look great in the shop when they aren’t in use.

I gave away around forty saws when I moved. Vintage Macs, Homelites, Sears, Husky, Wright, David Bradley, Titan, etc.

I arrived in New Mexico with 9 of my 10 Echos and my 2 Sachs Dolmars. It’s a good start. lol

 

[Brufab]

I have a ton of vintage Remington runners but the cs400 and cs590 are my go to saws. Reliability is top notch and none have failed me. I like the 3 pulls cold 1 pull warm/hot starts. Haven't had an issue with dealer support yet.

 

[Goofaroo]

I have a ton of vintage Remington runners but the cs400 and cs590 are my go to saws. Reliability is top notch and none have failed me. I like the 3 pulls cold 1 pull warm/hot starts. Haven't had an issue with dealer support yet.

Yep. The Echos are definitely top notch.

I just got done working on my 452VL. I managed to get the clutch off with just a bit more persuasion than I used yesterday.
I found the problem with the oil system. Once I had the clutch off I could see how the system works. I removed the two screws with the ball and springs that go into the two oil channels cast into the casing. I cleaned the two channels a bit and then replaced the o- rings on the screws and reinstalled the balls, springs, and screws. Then I removed the plug with the two o-rings and the nipple for the oil pickup hose. Then the problem was apparent. There was no oil hose connected. It wasn’t oiling because I didn’t have enough oil to reach where the pickup tube connects.

I drained the oil tank and then thoroughly cleaned it with brake cleaner. It’s hard to much of the inside of the tank but I found no evidence of the hose or the strainer spring inside the tank. Nothing rattled in there when I shook the saw and I even fished around in there with a magnet but no luck. I poked around on those internets looking at parts diagrams and found what was missing listed as unavailable so I had to figure out how to rig something up.

I ended up with a hose, a spring, a wood screw, and a nut. I cut the end of the hose at a taper, pushed the spring in and secured it with safety wire. Then I put the nut on the screw and screwed it into the spring. The nut was for weight to help keep the hose at the bottom of the tank.

I tried to put it in the tank but I couldn’t get it to go towards the bottom because of the filler neck in the tank. I had to make an installation tool out a piece of wire to coerce the hose to aim towards the bottom of the tank. Here’s the setup:

I also replaced the two o-rings on the plug. Here it is ready for installation:

Once I got the hose to the bottom of the tank I was able to remove the wire and then cut the hose to the length I want and attach it to the plug. Then I lightly greased the O-rings and carefully pressed it into position.

Now I just needed to put the starter and the clutch back on, put some fuel and just an inch or so of oil in it and see what happens. With the adjuster knob removed I set the oil shaft at one turn out. Then I fired it up.
It took just a bit for it to prime itself but oil finally came out. I checked the manual oiler and it produced a nice blast of oil.
I adjusted the oil shaft to where it was not oiling at idle but a quick pull of the throttle and it would instantly send a steady stream. I then installed the adjustment knob the give me the best range of adjustment.

Before I call this project complete I cleaned it up a bit and set it in a paper towel completely full of fuel and bar oil.
Tomorrow I’ll check for leaks. If there are no leaks I’ll drain it completely, run it dry, and stick it back on a shelf. lol

My CS302S is next. I haven’t fired it up for quite a while either. We’ll see what happens.

 

[Brufab]

Yep. The Echos are definitely top notch.

I just got done working on my 452VL. I managed to get the clutch off with just a bit more persuasion than I used yesterday.
I found the problem with the oil system. Once I had the clutch off I could see how the system works. I removed the two screws with the ball and springs that go into the two oil channels cast into the casing. I cleaned the two channels a bit and then replaced the o- rings on the screws and reinstalled the balls, springs, and screws. Then I removed the plug with the two o-rings and the nipple for the oil pickup hose. Then the problem was apparent. There was no oil hose connected. It wasn’t oiling because I didn’t have enough oil to reach where the pickup tube connects.

I drained the oil tank and then thoroughly cleaned it with brake cleaner. It’s hard to much of the inside of the tank but I found no evidence of the hose or the strainer spring inside the tank. Nothing rattled in there when I shook the saw and I even fished around in there with a magnet but no luck. I poked around on those internets looking at parts diagrams and found what was missing listed as unavailable so I had to figure out how to rig something up.

I ended up with a hose, a spring, a wood screw, and a nut. I cut the end of the hose at a taper, pushed the spring in and secured it with safety wire. Then I put the nut on the screw and screwed it into the spring. The nut was for weight to help keep the hose at the bottom of the tank.

I tried to put it in the tank but I couldn’t get it to go towards the bottom because of the filler neck in the tank. I had to make an installation tool out a piece of wire to coerce the hose to aim towards the bottom of the tank. Here’s the setup:
View attachment 1051752
I also replaced the two o-rings on the plug. Here it is ready for installation:
View attachment 1051753
Once I got the hose to the bottom of the tank I was able to remove the wire and then cut the hose to the length I want and attach it to the plug. Then I lightly greased the O-rings and carefully pressed it into position.
View attachment 1051754
Now I just needed to put the starter and the clutch back on, put some fuel and just an inch or so of oil in it and see what happens. With the adjuster knob removed I set the oil shaft at one turn out. Then I fired it up.
It took just a bit for it to prime itself but oil finally came out. I checked the manual oiler and it produced a nice blast of oil.
I adjusted the oil shaft to where it was not oiling at idle but a quick pull of the throttle and it would instantly send a steady stream. I then installed the adjustment knob the give me the best range of adjustment.

Before I call this project complete I cleaned it up a bit and set it in a paper towel completely full of fuel and bar oil.
Tomorrow I’ll check for leaks. If there are no leaks I’ll drain it completely, run it dry, and stick it back on a shelf. lol
View attachment 1051756
My CS302S is next. I haven’t fired it up for quite a while either. We’ll see what happens.

That's an insane and genius repair holy smokes man. Great work!

 

[Goofaroo]

That's an insane and genius repair holy smokes man. Great work!

Thanks. I hope there’s not a big puddle under it in the morning. lol

 

[Goofaroo]

There you have it. The paper towel had the same oil that it pulled off the saw last night. No new leakage at all.
I fired it up in three pulls in 30 degree weather. Just to verify that I had the adjuster knob mounted correctly I verified that I could set it so there was no oil at idle but it put out a nice stream under throttle.
It’s working perfectly.
So I drained the fuel and then ran it dry. I left the oil in the tank.
I gave it a bit more of a cleaning and then dressed the bar a bit before putting the bar and chain back on the saw. I gave the chain a good sharpening including taking the rakers down a bit.

With the oiler serviced, a new fuel line, and the carb rebuilt with Walbro parts this thing should be good to go for many years. I’m definitely gonna give it a workout next time I do some cutting.



You may notice that I am missing the hand guard and the knob for the idle adjustment. If anyone has either part I’m definitely interested.

 

[Goofaroo]

Next up will be my CS302S. It may not need anything but a good cleaning and a bit of exercise. We’ll see but for now I need to turn my attention to some other projects.

 

[Goofaroo]

Next up will be my CS302S. It may not need anything but a good cleaning and a bit of exercise. We’ll see but for now I need to turn my attention to some other projects.
View attachment 1052017
View attachment 1052018

No dice on the 302. I tried to bottle feed it a few times but I couldn’t get it to pull fuel and run on its own. As I recall it ran great a few years ago when I bought it but I thought I had gone through the fuel system. Obviously that was not the case.
The hose and filter in the tank are fine and the original fuel line to the carb is in tact but hard as a rock. Apparently the carb needs some attention. I’m not sure if I have a kit for it on hand but I need to get it apart and see what’s up in there.


I’m kind of suspicious about the screws holding the carb down. All of the other fasteners have been socket cap or JIS.
I don’t think I’ve ever seen a metric flat blade screw before.

 

[Goofaroo]

I can’t believe I actually cut wood with this saw a few years ago. I have never seen a diaphragm as crunchy as this one. Let’s just say there was zero chance this saw was going to run.


I went through my hoard and it appears that I may have the parts on hand to return this carb to its original glory. I’m gonna give it a whirl.

 

[Goofaroo]

First I need some lubricant to help things go smoothly.

 

[Goofaroo]

Cleaned and new parts installed. It’s holding steady vacuum. It looks like I might get lucky.

 

[Goofaroo]

I’m back at it this morning. I decided that before I put the carb back in I needed to do some cleaning and a bit of further inspection. I also realized I was missing the chain guide plates. I am also missing the decal for the clutch cover. I pulled up the parts diagrams and all three items were still available. Gotta love Echo for making quite a few parts still available for their customers.
I’m gonna clean it up a bit and then dress the points, check the timing, and check the air gap. It fires right up with fuel in the chamber but I figured I’d give the ignition a quick once over. Here’s the scene.

I don’t know if it shows up in the pic but the piston and cylinder look perfect.

 

[Goofaroo]

The points were in great shape and gapped at .014”. Good enough for me.
I just cleaned them a bit and called it good.

I moved on from the ignition and started doing a bit of assembly.


I removed the intake to have a look. The gasket didn’t look too bad but in the interest of not having air leaks and the lack of new gaskets on hand I applied a thin film of anaerobic gasket maker to the intake and carb gasket.

Then I installed the carb and hooked it up to the throttle and choke linkage and then installed the needles and the grommet.
Next I had to sort out a fuel delivery setup. A previous owner had cut off the barbs on the plastic manifold so I had to get a bit creative to make sure the fuel lines were secure. I ended up using small spring clamps and then cutting off the pinch tabs to provide clearance for the install. Probably overkill but it gave me a little peace of mind. I had to warm up the tubing a bit to get it over the nipples without stressing it too much.



Here’s the pickup tube setup.

 

[Goofaroo]

Here’s the completed results.

With that out of the way I just needed to start putting it back together to the point I could try to start it.


I put some fuel in it and pulled it several times with no luck so I put a bit of fuel down the carb and fired it up and it stayed running! I must have only been a few pulls from it firing it up on its own.
I took a short video of it running but apparently I can’t download it here. It sounds great but I still need to do a final tune with the air filter and cover on.

I’m done with it today. Tomorrow I’m gonna put new o-rings in the oiler shaft and put some oil in it and see what happens. We’ll see.

 

[Goofaroo]

It was a simple finish to this project this morning. I replaced the O-rings on the oiler shaft and installed it back in the saw set at one turn out. I had the O-rings in stock. I buy them whenever I come across them cheap on EBay. They fit a lot of old Echos that use this same oiler shaft.

So then I put a bit of oil in the tank and fired it up. It barked on the first pull on choke and idled nicely on the second pull with the choke off. It didn’t take long for it to start pulling a bit of oil and I was once again able to find the sweet spot so I installed the knob oriented to give me the perfect adjustability. In my opinion these old Echos have the best oiling system available.

I went ahead and filled the oil tank to the brim and set in on a towel to verify that there are no leaks. I also wiped it down a bit and applied a bit of peanut oil to the rubber and plastic bits to feed it a bit of nutrients and darken the black color.

I think it’s good to go long term but I’ll verify that it doesn’t leak tomorrow morning. I guess you’ve figured out that leaky saws are a pet peeve of mine. It’s one of the reasons I would never own a Stihl. lol

When the guide plates and decal get delivered I‘ll install the bar and chain and then give it a final tuning with the tachometer. Then give the chain a good sharpening and this project will be over.

 

[Goofaroo]

I spoke too soon. It turns out the fuel cap is leaking through the vent. Time to have a look at a parts diagram and see if I can figure out what’s failing.

I’m not sure how to get this apart but I’ve got nothing to lose if I damage it in the process.

 

[Goofaroo]

I’m stumped. I got it apart without incident and compared the parts to the Echo parts diagram. Everything was accounted for and appear to be in perfect shape.

As you can see there’s a vent hole on one side.

And a channel cut through the threads on the other side. The 0-ring on the left was what it had but I’m not sure if it’s correct. I tried a bit beefier o-ring but no dice. If I go any bigger on the o-ring it’s gonna block the vent hole.
My 452 has a similar cap on it but much bigger. I tilted it to make sure it didn’t leak and it did not.

If anyone has a 302 and can verify that their gas cap doesn’t leak I’m all ears.

From what I can see this cap is in perfect shape. I was expecting to find some sort of one way valve that needed to be serviced but there was not. At this point I’m not confident that a new cap will behave any differently.

 

[Goofaroo]

Disregard that. lol

I put a bit of rubber grease on the o-ring and then cranked the gas cap down a little tighter than usual. I tilted the saw up again and no leak. I fired it up again and let it run for a while to verify that it was still venting and it ran perfectly. Mystery solved. lol

 

[Ocala]

This is my first post here. I have had Stihl and Husky saws for years. I did have an Echo saw about 10 years ago that was stolen. but I liked it fine up to that point.

Just picked up a CS-310 that I plan to use for limbing. Looks like a great little saw.

Anyway, I bought this CS-8000 a couple years ago with the plan of using it only for the biggest cuts or falling the trees.

Only ran it about 10 minutes and it stalled, That was a couple years ago. So I just recently bought a new carb for it after trying the usual stuff, it had been sitting in pieces in a Lowe’s bucket for over for over two years.

I put the new carb in and still couldn’t get it to work, so I gave up and took it to the saw shop, and after spending two weeks there with a guy that had no idea how to get it going, I have it back today.

Not sure but I think it might be running rich, but I’m not going to mess with it until the trees are on the ground.

I ran a saw on a fire crew in Tiller Oregon a LONG time ago, but still enjoy this stuff.

I’m sure I can learn a lot reading here, GREAT site.