Is it time for an Echo stickie?

[Franny K]

Two months of inactivity. This 361p is my only echo, my only stuffed crankshaft saw. Bore 39 stroke 30 I also have a Makita dual reed 3601frdb bore 38 stroke 31 to take out and see which is better. It is subjective of course but the Makita one is probably better but it only is good for 3/8lp 6 tooth drive. This one came that way but I got it to work with a small spline drum and in the pictures it has a 14 tooth nose 80dl bar running genuine Stihl 13rm. The bars can be bought on ebay from mountain of a deal at $10 for four plus shipping. I just made this one up as they need mods. I don't usually have new looking bar like this one. It can now run .325 as well as an 8 tooth 1/4 echo sprocket available in other markets or aftermarket one here. The rim 1/4 is 9 tooth drive.

I have modified the bar nuts that really are 6mm thread 10mm nuts kind of recessed in by adding a 13mm nut on top which makes the scrench uniform as well as being a securing point tor the Stihl scabbard shown.




From reading and looking at attachments on here it seems to be the only current Echo with no limiters on the carb. Double D on both needle adjustments.

 

[JKNW]

Got my first Echo a couple weeks ago, new favorite firewood saw for sure. It got some WCS dogs and a loop of EXL this week. Probably going to decide on a muffler mod and add one of Stoeckel's air filter setups soon now that it's got a few tanks of fuel through it.

 

[heimannm]

Can anyone help me locate an air filter and cover for this 50V?





Thanks,

Mark

 

[mowerman]

pm sent, I think--first time

 

[EchovsStihl63]

Can anyone help me locate an air filter and cover for this 50V?

View attachment 1150653

View attachment 1150654

Thanks,

Mark

Just do a google search and some should pop up on eBay. Might have to search for a 452vl instead

 

[numnutz6383]

I picked up a non working 600 last year and it turned out the p+c were junk. I've been trying around with the idea of turning the carcass into a franken-620. Is it possible to drop a 620 P+C in?

 

[heimannm]

Echo week here. 50V #1







One down, two to go...



50V #1, #2, #3. Two are runners, one will go in to the display.



...On to a 60V...



Mark

 

[numnutz6383]

Could someone tell me if this coil off a cs-600p will work with a cs-590 (flywheels are the same for both). According to the CS-600P IPL for my serial number this is p/n P021038360.

 

[numnutz6383]

Could someone tell me if this coil off a cs-600p will work with a cs-590 (flywheels are the same for both). According to the CS-600P IPL for my serial number this is p/n P021038360.
View attachment 1154292

For anyone that may have same question in the future, I checked with Echo, that coil has been superceded by p/n A411001340 which is the coil for the 590. So they are interchangeable.

 

[heimannm]

60V needed a good clean up.



Better



I think there should be a ball plugging this hole, can anyone confirm?



There was no oil line attached, and I can't find anything in the tank (used my camera/scope to inspect inside the tank). I will need to find an oil pick up to go on the end of the line.



Coming back together, very good spark!



Mark

 

[Hoggwood]

Those fuel and oil pickup lines always dissolved away. Shaped Tygon to fit around the barb on the plastic tank fittings. I have used the Homelite and Husqvarna oil pickups as a replacement when they can’t be shaken from the tank and/or are missing. They manage to snake down into the bottom of the tank. I can’t recall if that hole should be plugged as the 602 is one of the few in the series I don’t have. The ball checks under the bolts can get gummed up when the OEM dissolve over time. But, the VL series pump systems were ultra healthy when running. If you end up pulling the pump body, they should be seated down and then backed off to the matching index punch marks set from the factory. Usually it is +/- 3/4 out from seated. The lobe on the cam that actuates the pump piston is max travel around that point and then backs off as the dial is turned out to the stop.

Lots of cool features for the era and just excellent running, solid, smooth, robust machines. Torque to spare even if modest chain speed. As well, I have never run into a set of seals that was not good even after 40 years. Japanese quality.

I have never seen any of the Deere rebrands up here in Canada. Only the yellow Craftsman 701 SVL.

 

[heimannm]

I did remove both check balls and made sure everything was clean and open. If I prime the manual pump (pull the plunger and put some oil in there) it come out that hole rather than passing down the channels to the bar pad.

The other oil pick ups that I have from some different McCulloch saws are too large in diameter to fit through the hole in the side of the tank, and you can't pull the line up the fill hole and fit the pick up back down in there.

Mark

 

[heimannm]

I concluded that hole needed to be plugged. Since I didn't have a steel ball of the appropriate diameter, I tapped the hole and inserted a short set screw.



The 60V is back together and everything works as it should.





I have a muffler guard coming from eBay, and the AF knob and hand guard coming from mowerman. For test purposes I don't have a strainer on the oil line, but mowerman is providing one of those as well.

Next up, and what should be the last Echo for a while is this JD 40V. It came to me partially disassembled so I am hoping I can find enough pieces to complete it.





Coming along nicely this afternoon.



I'm looking for recommendations for the fuel cap gasket.



Mark

 

[GeneralKayoss]

five CS680's, a CS590 and a CS800

 

[Chucksta]

Wow... Just found this thread, and read every post. I had no idea that Echo had made that many saws, for so long. Unlike the rest of you, I bought them as being a great "Bang for the buck", ridiculous 5 year warrantee, and a local dealer that treated me well. He knew I was commercial, and told me to get the consumer ( homeowner) warrantee).
I never tried ( not even once), to treat them well.. A lot of people are OCD about maintenance. I never touched one, unless there was a problem. Sure, they got fogged for winter, and had nothing but Ethanol free fuel with a splash of Seafoam, and Amsoil Saber at 70 to 1.. But, other than that, I never bothered with maintenance unless there was a problem. And, there was virtually never a problem. Ever.. And that was in commercial use.
I've culled the herd since I retired and sold half or more of the 20 saws and trimmers and stuff that I owned. 2 and 1/2 355Ts' 590 Timberwolf, and an 800 P and stuff to clean up the yard were what I kept, along with some classic Stihls was what I kept in retirement.
My climber ignored my advice to lanyard one of the 355ts" when " I'm just going up to do a couple of cuts".. Sure enough, he dropped the saw. It smacked about ten branches on it's way to the ground. I could hear him cuss every time it hit another branch.. It landed up that the cover over the lines that ran the throttle and choke was cracked. I took it back to the shop that I bought it from and, in front of several customers at the service counter, bitched out the Service Advisor.. " What kind of crap are you selling me? It fell less than 100 feet out of a tree, and it stalled when it hit the ground!! ".. The look on his face , and the other customers that were there was 'effin priceless! It was $13.00 for a new cover plate
I did have an Echo 355T die on me.. I was walking over to a neighbour's place to trim a tree, and it started to run snotty, and then died. I yanked the starter cord, and the motor seemed seized.. I tossed it in the " need work " pile, and left it till I had the time to deal with it.,. I mean really.. what saw seizes at idle?.. I took it apart, and found that the coil had loosened it's screws, and that the coil had entangled in the fan. Locktite, and a re-gap with a business card, and it hasn't missed a beat since.

Would I say that an Echo is as good as a Stihl, or Husky. or any other major brand.... Ummm No.. I have no need to get into that kind of pissing contest.. But, I'd just say that an Echo, can withstand a whole whack of use and abuse, and keep coming back for more. And more.

 

[heimannm]

The oil line in the 40V was not good...



I cleaned the tank out as best I could, and use a piece of stiff wire to guide a piece of Tygon tubing onto the nipple. I had to make a "bushing" from another piece of Tygon inserted in the tubing to shrink it down enough to secure the pick up/strainer I had. After replacing one of the v seals on the oiler body with an o-ring, I was able to get the oiler working.



I also had to come up with a workaround for the fuel line. Tygon tubing with a Tygon bushing to seal the opening into the airbox.



Waiting on a fuel gap gasket & duckbill valve and a new clutch drum to make it fully operational once again.





Mark

 

[Gumneck]

Never seen so many Echo CST610EVL twin cylinder saws on Ebay at once. There's 7 of them on now.

 

[RedneckChainsawRepair]

I'm liking certain newer echo's.

But better get them before they ruin them like they did with 4910 to 4920. By 400 too.

 

[heimannm]

 

[edju1958]

I've got 4 Echos - a John Deer 30,500 EVL,660 EVL,& a John Deer version of the 650.The 650 needs a new ignition module.The current module has no spark.I took the module off & cleaned it & puty it back on & got the saw to fire faintly,then nothing.Does anyone know of an afterrmarket module?Or has anyone attempted to use another module like a Husky module like has been used for the Homelite SEZ & some Pioneer saws that used the "blue coil of death"?