Is it worth getting a Furnace or settel with a Stove?

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
I think I'm going to get an add on furnace and teach her how to run it properly. If its just adding wood and adjusting the damper's it shouldn't be too bad.
For a lot of them it ain't even much "learning" to the proper running of it... the wall thermostat pretty much "runs" the thing. That is, if you go with one that uses a wall thermostat (which, would be my recommendation)... you can still run them manually when ya' choose to. Most of the "learning" is just how often and how much to load... and if my wife can pick it up... well... (somethings are just better left unsaid).
*
 
I would guess you wouldn't keep it at 60 if gas was free.

Ahhh NO I think 72 would be good.

Any brands you recommend? I would like the thermostat to also control the gas furnace. So if I/We are away and the fire goes out the gas would take over. My parents have an old Steel King and my sister has a worn out Daka. One with a fire viewing hole or glass door would be nice to have. Less door opening to check fire status. And like I said in my first post, low smoke output. Are the epa furnaces that much better or worse as fas as operating. I hear with the secondary burn its way more useable btu's and less heat up the chimney. Any one offer hot water heating
 
Ahhh NO I think 72 would be good.

Any brands you recommend? I would like the thermostat to also control the gas furnace. So if I/We are away and the fire goes out the gas would take over. My parents have an old Steel King and my sister has a worn out Daka. One with a fire viewing hole or glass door would be nice to have. Less door opening to check fire status. And like I said in my first post, low smoke output. Are the epa furnaces that much better or worse as fas as operating. I hear with the secondary burn its way more useable btu's and less heat up the chimney. Any one offer hot water heating
If you can afford it go with the caddy or max caddy. More than likely need two thermostats, one for each. I'm thinking my next house I will install the max caddy with the backup electric heat element.
 
My soon to be wife and I are purchasing the house that we are currently renting. It is a 1300 sq ft house in the middle of a 50,000 population city. I know the city wont have a problem with us burning wood but smoke is a factor. We only heat the bottom half of the two story house because nobody lives upstairs and we can't afford to heat the whole house above 60*. Granted we probably could but we are at the lowest degree that we feel "comfortable". I should clarify, she is comfortable and I am freezing but comfortable not complaining.

Our house doesn't really have a good place to put a stove accept in the basement. I have experience in the add on furnace world because my parents have one. I would like to get a furnace but she wants a stove. I'm happy being able to burn wood in our house but was wondering if a stove in the basement would be able to effectively heat the first floor. Are their any stoves that have the capability of integrating to the existing duct work of the forced air propane furnace.

I have two friends that have wood stoves in there house. One loves it and the other doesn't. I prefer something I could load 20" pieces into. Hot water side arm unit would be nice but not a requirement. Cost is a factor but not when it comes to quality of a unit.

Any advice?

Are you looking for a household appliance or a part of the decor ? I'll preface my comments by saying that I've never lived in or even spent time in a house heated with a freestanding unit in the basement.

I put a wood furnace in because I was looking for uniform heat away from my children, carpet, wood floors and pets. I also have less than great memories of growing up in a house that was heated with a freestanding wood stove and the 80°-70°-60° Temp range that radiated out from the stove. I do like the independence from electricity that a stove offers in bad weather but I seem to remember fans of some kind running all winter trying to get some semblance of warmth to the back bedroom(mine).. :cold:..

I also have a nephew that was severely burned buy a stove as a toddler and all it takes is one lax moment and bad stuff can happen, intentionally lighting a fire in a house is risky but doing it in a living area has always seemed dumb.

A OWB is the only good option !
 
The mini caddy that I posted the pic of earlier would be a good choice for you with your house size. But the most bang for the buck would be the Drolet Tundra (or Heatmax, same furnace, different color) which BTW, Menards has on sale for ~$1566 until this weekend. It may be just a bit large for your house size but that is easy to deal with...just don't pack it clear full when your load it! Either one give you fire TV, EPA firebox design, and is controlled by a thermostat, so super easy to run. Not sure on a hot water coil for the Tundra...
 
I'd get a tundra/ heatmax and call it done . Dollar for dollar your best option ( caddy is a upgraded version if funds allow ) A stove doesn't always get the heat upstairs and if it does it likely won't do it evenly and unless it's large it won't give the burn times . A EPA wood furnace makes more sense and offers long clean uniform burn times . It is regulated by a wall thermostat and is the closest thing to natural gas you'll find in wood heat for the money . A modern EPA furnace can be choked down and burn clean unlike a typical wood furnace your used to . It's very easy to operate and won't have any problem whatsoever heating your smaller home .
 
Is the basement insulated? A furnace may be to big and heat you out of the house. I would think 650 sq ft A floor for 2 stories would be ideal for a stove. And I am a furnace fan.
 
I saw a nice setup where a plenum was fabricated to fit a Fisher papa bear stove and the air moves through the ducts by convection. This could be plumbed into existing ducts.

The setup also had thermostated fans controlling various ducts to move heat where needed more quickly. If the power goes out still plenty of flow by convection.

The owner was a retired HVAC fabricator/designer. He had the same setup in both his house and barn/workshop.

Did I forget to say shop and home were both nice and warm?

P.S. if you want a dual fuel wood furnace have a look at charmaster

http://www.charmaster.com/prlist.html
 
Here is a picture of the Tundra in action. My house heating area is about 1000sqft. It's hooked up to my existing propane furnace plenum and heats the house really good. I have it set on 70 degrees and it maintains that temp for 8-10 hours. If they are on sale at menards for $1566 I'd definitely pick one up for that price.
 

Attachments

  • wp_ss_20150114_0003.png
    wp_ss_20150114_0003.png
    26.4 KB
An owb is most certainly not the only good option.

IMO, in this case, it's not on the list of good ones.
 
Let me address something that no else has. In your 2 story home with a stove on the main floor or basement there is going to be a small cold air hurricane about ankle high flowing to the appliance. The most noticeable place will be coming down the stairs from the second story, and that can be quite uncomfortable depending on the lay out. I had a small place 2 story about 800sq ft way back when. Access to 2nd story was stairs on one side of living room and basement stairs under that, entrance to that off galley type kitchen area. I have a friend with a contemporary 2 story, nice place , a gas fire place in living room same story cold air flow down stairs in to living room - don't want feet on floor if it is in use. The Mini Caddy might be the best choice - it is new do not know the heat duration times- the Tundra and similar are going to eat a lot of room basement wise. In addition to the units them selves you have to look at what you are going to need for a flue - this would be completely separate from your present chimney. Likely cost on just that is going to be on the order of $2000. Another issue you need to address is storage of about 4 cords of DRY wood per season( thats just an average #, what your needs will be - hard to pin down ). Generally not something you can purchase - don't fall for wood sellers hype as most (99%) are not even close to the moisture requirements for current stoves / and true specifically designed wood furnaces. Units like the Daka , Charmaster and a host of others are coal units that can burn wood (like a v10 vs a 4 cylinder on gas). I am kinda rambling here but these are issues you need to look at. I love my wood heat and being able to Thumb my nose at a portion of my utility costs. Another issue is how long do you plan on staying in that home as a $4000-5000 dollar investment takes awhile to break even on. If the two of you are younger and planning on or not ( things happen ) little ones you likely might be looking for a larger place within a few years of that event.
 
what are you going to do when you get a stove in the middle of the house and its hotter than blazes in there,get a furnace and distribute it evenly.
you stated its a little tight with stuff packed in places , why take up a chunk of livable space you dont have,you wont be sitting next to the furnace very often i think
 
what are you going to do when you get a stove in the middle of the house and its hotter than blazes in there,get a furnace and distribute it evenly.
you stated its a little tight with stuff packed in places , why take up a chunk of livable space you dont have,you wont be sitting next to the furnace very often i think

A centrally located wood stove in a fairly open floor plan and run properly does not make the room it's in 'hotter than blazes'.


It makes it nice and cozy comfortable.

I know, as I've been living this way for 21 years now.

Come in from the cold, stand by the stove, wet clothes, hang by the stove. Boots, sit by the stove. Cook, on top of the stove. Heat hot water for dishes, on top of the stove. Stare into the fire, in front of the stove. Monitor fire, look at the stove. Feed stove, walk 15ft.
 
understood can be done, but stated its a 2story 1300 sq ft, not sure how big or small 2nd floor is though.
and if it cant be done well, one area has to be over heated to get heat to other area which makes it (feel) worse than is going from hot spots to cooler spots.
but i agree can be done sucesssfully, also all the house i see with front door open in middle of winter show alot cant do it well too ;)
 
You've posted a question with which I am personally familiar:

It is challenging to bring radiant heat around corners, up staircases and down hallways; however, a properly placed, wood stove can efficiently supplement conventional force-air HVAC in a 1400 ft/sq, two-story house, i.e., bring inside temp up, if it is centrally located in a main living space -- not in the basement.

A wood-burning furnace tied into the existing force-air system is more effective whole-house solution with a reasonable increase in system cost and wood consumption.

I second the previous comments that the economics of flue placement will, most likely, make your choice.
 
A centrally located wood stove in a fairly open floor plan and run properly does not make the room it's in 'hotter than blazes'.
It makes it nice and cozy comfortable.
Not in my perspective.

Dad's log home is wide open... living room, dining room, kitchen and front entry is one huge room with a cathedral ceiling. His stove sits darn close to the center of that space, and the heat radiating from it is damn uncomfortable sitting anywhere within 15 feet of it. In other words, the stove makes an area of about 30 feet in diameter unusable unless you love sweatin' (and I don't). Because of furniture and such, no matter where you wanna' walk or move in that space (even coming in the entry) means transitioning from cool(er), to hot, and back to cool(er)... a huge temperature difference. That ain't "cozy" in my book... it's actually miserable (to me). The furniture, even the stuff some distance from the stove, gets so warm from the radiant heat my backside starts sweatin' shortly after sittin' down... I usually sit in one of the hard chairs at the far side of the dinning table to avoid such.

Some people find it "cozy"... I flat don't. I don't find needing to add or remove cloths as I move about the house as comfortable.
Like I said, some people find it "cozy"... I've tried it... I hate it... and I don't care for the way a stove makes such a large area of the living space basically unusable (especially if space is at a premium in the home). An low burning open fireplace at the far end of the room is "cozy"... a stove is just hot.

But that's just me.
*
 
If cost is a issue buy a tundra for 1577 which sounds like a great deal and you can install that yourself and just stoke it accordingly because it will be oversized for got house
 
Back
Top