Jonsered 2150 grenaded piston!

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tfsiii

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New member to site, have been reading for a while. Owned several saws from Poulan (3700) to Sachs Dolmar, to more late models Jonsered 2136, lasted 8 years, then in late 01 bought a 2150 Jonsered. Cutting this past weekend, engine stopped with a broken metal sound. Just took head off, and the piston skirt on one side is gone! I shook the metal bits from it out of the crankcase. Question for the experts, should I attempt a rebuild? Already purchased a new Husky 359. I am disappointed this saw only lasted 5 years. I religiously maintain, sharpen own chains, fresh fuel w/50 to 1 all the time, clean and tune regularly, kept indoors all it's life, and end up with a seized engine. I did like this saw. Enjoy reading all the posts. Regards- Tom
 
i bought an '05 2150 off e-bay and the guy said piston slightly scored, but he didn't mention or check the cylinder, it was slightly scored, piston very scored. so with a new piston from c bailey and a little cylinder hone it will ride again, so go ahead and rebuild
 
If the skirt is gone intake side,it could means that something went tru the carb and broke the skirt.It could be also a broken crank cage bearing that broke.If you rebuild it ,better open the crankcase to clean and check everything.A pic would be nice.
 
pics of 2150 piston

#2 son took some pics of the piston. Further inspection reveals the bore has a small fracture as well. Note broken skirt on intake side. So at the least, cylinder bore, piston rebuild kit. Never rebuilt one , but certainly willing to try, depending on cost of parts. Need to determine break point as to how much to spend . Any recommendations for parts? It was a nice med. duty saw. regards, Tom
 
If you do decide to rebuild it check the rod over very carefully It appears in the pics that it took a shock hit and is deformed and possibly twisted slightly. the twist may just be digital pic distortion but the color change on the rod on the one side and the hammered look on the opposite side make me think that the rod is deformed and will likely fail rather quickly. It does very much look like something found it's way into the intake and broke the piston
 
I have got to agree with Pest. It looks like something entered the intake port. Did you find any foreign objects inside the crankcase? Were there any indents on the bottom of the intake port?
 
Gents, thanks for the replies. Can't imagine anyhting could have gone into intake port, as the saw has one of those plastic mesh twist on filters, which is intact. As for debris in the crankcase, plenty of metal bits from piston. Yes, rod is disolored, and obviously took a few hits from the metal bits, but does not appear twisted to the naked eye. Intake port is smooth as well. My son noticed the hairline crack at base of jug, other than that, cylinder bore is clean and smooth. I am thinking of getting a cylinder kit and gaskets from Bailey's, and trying to replace the top end. Looks like it will cost around 150 . Need to get a chainsaw reoair manual so I do things right. Disassembly is always easy.. Meanwhile, I will be using my new 359 with 18 in bar. Tom
 
I would fish through the case with a magnet and make sure nothing steel came apart. If it was just the piston aluminum you could be OK with just a P&C.

IT may have been the crack that is showing in the cylinder that caught the bottom of the piston skirt when hot and under load.

I have seen pistons crack and shatter but not that type and never up that high on the skirt unless something of fairly large size found it's way loose in the cases.
 
That much metal flying around in a crankcase is bad. I would clean the case very good, then roll the crankshaft by hand. I think you will be able to feel if there is metal in the bearings. If the crank rolls freely and feels good, no tight spots or funny noises, maybe rebuild.
 
split the crankcase to clean/chk crankshaft & bearings.if crank is ok get a new piston & cylinder assy.cbearings if needed. reassemble.

i have seen this type failure on 162SE husqvarna about 200+ times, all repaired and put back into service with the above method....but with just a piston only.no cylinder damage.no new bearings.:D
 

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