jonsered 52 issues with it shut down after its gets warm 10 min run time max

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sledhead34

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not sure if its a leaking seal or coil or condenser any help what they feel like not sure ,,thought it was a air leak also at carb but that all been tighten up
 

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Could your fuel tank vent be totally clogged up? Crack your fuel cap right after it stalls and see if it starts right up again.
 
Fuel tank vent? as soon it stops pull the plug and check for spark coils will some times fail with heat but work when cooled.
Kash
YEAH THE VENT LInE HAD a copper tip that was plug up the tip was bad but the saw still dies ,it will restart after cooling down but runs like crap ,,seems like a coil electrical issue ,trying to find a good coil ,but haven't had any luck except ebay ,but they look old used garbage actually and tips to a good coil would be great
 
YEAH THE VENT LInE HAD a copper tip that was plug up the tip was bad but the saw still dies ,it will restart after cooling down but runs like crap ,,seems like a coil electrical issue ,trying to find a good coil ,but haven't had any luck except ebay ,but they look old used garbage actually and tips to a good coil would be great
i just ran the line without the copper tip in the line
 
Might well be electrical but you should completely rule out the tank vent. Where your vent line attaches to the white plastic fuel block there is a silver screw in fitting.....inside this is a ball check valve and this must be loose in order to work properly. Shake it and you should be able to hear it rattle. If it's stuck closed your tank wont vent.
If that is working properly then look into the electrical side. Again go through the easy stuff first like making sure your points are clean and gapped properly and your condenser is good There is another possible problem point in the electrical system on these saws. The connection between the recoil cover and the case can get weak. To test I take one of the wavy washers from the recoil bolts and stick it to the connector with a dab of grease and reassemble the recoil to the case.
If you still think it's the coil then make sure the you get the coil for a 52 and not one for a 52E. Though they mount in the same place they are very different and they can't be swapped between systems.
 
Might well be electrical but you should completely rule out the tank vent. Where your vent line attaches to the white plastic fuel block there is a silver screw in fitting.....inside this is a ball check valve and this must be loose in order to work properly. Shake it and you should be able to hear it rattle. If it's stuck closed your tank wont vent.
If that is working properly then look into the electrical side. Again go through the easy stuff first like making sure your points are clean and gapped properly and your condenser is good There is another possible problem point in the electrical system on these saws. The connection between the recoil cover and the case can get weak. To test I take one of the wavy washers from the recoil bolts and stick it to the connector with a dab of grease and reassemble the recoil to the case.
If you still think it's the coil then make sure the you get the coil for a 52 and not one for a 52E. Though they mount in the same place they are very different and they can't be swapped between systems.
thanks it answers a few questions ,i hear kind of a sucking sound the vent might be not open what is a good way to free it up ? pb blaster or air ,and on the coii ground your talking the brass ground out spot for the washer right ?
 
been hunting for a 52 coil no luck yet im thinking more and more that the tank is plugged up on the vent side whats weird is it will run down half a tank and quit ,its the same amount of fuel every time when it shuts down so its confusing because if its plugged then how can it pull that much fuel and stay running ,,so that's why I'm leaning on the coil side but it could be both issues fighting each other
 
I would change the condenser. I have had that be the case with both of my 49's. Coils have also been an issue.
 
I would change the condenser. I have had that be the case with both of my 49's. Coils have also been an issue.
any tips on where to get the parts ? ,,,what happen when you your coil went ,and condenser give me the symptoms ???
 
I have had good success with ebay. Coils and condensers often quit when hot but more often than not you will have weak spark or intermitted spark. You can make any small condenser word. One of my 49,s has one bolted to the original plate.
 
When the saw quits at half the tank undo the gas cap to vent the tank and then try the saw if it starts it is the vent .Condensors dont usually fail with heat if they go bad its full time.
Coils on magneto engines very very fail check the primary and secondary windings for ohm readings do not worry if a coil looks old it most likely good.
Kash
 
A known issue with the Jonsered 50, 51, 52 is the metal inserts in the plastic intake gets loose. If you re-tighten the screws you essentially make it worse, because the inserts gets pushed further out. And there will be an air leak around carb, intake, cylinder and pulse hole.
Test by spraying break cleaner at the outside of the intake while the saw is idling.
 
been hunting for a 52 coil no luck yet im thinking more and more that the tank is plugged up on the vent side whats weird is it will run down half a tank and quit ,its the same amount of fuel every time when it shuts down so its confusing because if its plugged then how can it pull that much fuel and stay running ,,so that's why I'm leaning on the coil side but it could be both issues fighting each other
So....OK...it stops at the same exact amount of fuel used each time. Is your in tank fuel line long enough so the filter is laying on it's side in the tank and free to move anywhere across the bottom of the tank? Or is the filter suspended midway to the bottom of the tank by a to short line?
 
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