jonsered 52 issues with it shut down after its gets warm 10 min run time max

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JUST TESTED THE COIL AND ITS A 7 OHMS NOT SURE WHAT ITS SUPPOSED TO BE ,that`s the thing when cold it starts runs and then 10 min mark it will get bog down to a stop filters good ,so now I'm thinking condenser is the issue unless when the coil gets warm that pukes too
 
With these fuel related questions the missing piece is whether the OP is refueling the saw after it stops or just letting it cool. If not refueled, how long does it run when it finally restarts?
its doesn`t really want to run good after it starts but i was rushing it being deep in samsquanch infested forest .still barley ran next day fires up does same thing it could be fuel related also the check valve is kind of crap i cant get it to rattle like someone said but can see it bubble if you spray like pb blaster down it ,been trying to clean that up in the mean time
 
So....OK...it stops at the same exact amount of fuel used each time. Is your in tank fuel line long enough so the filter is laying on it's side in the tank and free to move anywhere across the bottom of the tank? Or is the filter suspended midway to the bottom of the tank by a to short line?
 
line is pretty long and in fuel filter sits inboard inside on it side at bottom of tank,its like just when you think the saw is getting warmed up and you cutting good it get boggy and dies 10 min later it will fire but it not liking it and runs like crap
 
A known issue with the Jonsered 50, 51, 52 is the metal inserts in the plastic intake gets loose. If you re-tighten the screws you essentially make it worse, because the inserts gets pushed further out. And there will be an air leak around carb, intake, cylinder and pulse hole.
Test by spraying break cleaner at the outside of the intake while the saw is idling.
ill try that ,i just had that apart and they looked fine resealed that gasket with small amount of case sealant and put together the pulse hole and gasket for carb doesn`t really match up though i did notice that there is no hole on the carb side which i found to be weird like maybe someone put a different carb on it ,the hole on carb is slightly higher up looking then where the pulse hole comes off the cylinder block
 
A known issue with the Jonsered 50, 51, 52 is the metal inserts in the plastic intake gets loose. If you re-tighten the screws you essentially make it worse, because the inserts gets pushed further out. And there will be an air leak around carb, intake, cylinder and pulse hole.
Test by spraying break cleaner at the outside of the intake while the saw is idling.
this is what the carb looks like pulse hole looks higher up on left side ,doesn`t really match up to the block pulse hole on cylinder side
 

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its doesn`t really want to run good after it starts but i was rushing it being deep in samsquanch infested forest .still barley ran next day fires up does same thing it could be fuel related also the check valve is kind of crap i cant get it to rattle like someone said but can see it bubble if you spray like pb blaster down it ,been trying to clean that up in the mean time
Doesn't really answer my question. Are you refueling the saw after it quits at 10 minutes?
 
Doesn't really answer my question. Are you refueling the saw after it quits at 10 minutes?
yes and no few times i did but it acted the same way .just had to cool down it seemed even after refilling tank ,and it did start but it wasn't running good at all soon as a load hit it ,it would bog down and die carb wasn't touched as far as setting went from what it started and ran good for the first 10 minutes
 
thanks it answers a few questions ,i hear kind of a sucking sound the vent might be not open what is a good way to free it up ? pb blaster or air ,and on the coii ground your talking the brass ground out spot for the washer right ?
tell me how you fix the fuel tank vent to make it rattle ???
 

this is what the carb looks like pulse hole looks higher up on left side ,doesn`t really match up to the block pulse hole on cylinder side
The gasket shown in your post is the wrong one for your saw. You need the larger gasket that allows the pulse to travel from the slot in the plastic manifold to hole in the carb. The gasket in most kits is not the correct one.
 
The gasket shown in your post is the wrong one for your saw. You need the larger gasket that allows the pulse to travel from the slot in the plastic manifold to hole in the carb. The gasket in most kits is not the correct one.
i see it now under close inspection you can see the travel path on the original one its back in the saw now ,this prick better run now and stay running but still suspect electrical issues ,I find out tomorrow deep in the bush
 
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