Jonsered Chainsaws

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70E rim count

The rim is trashed on my 70E. It has an 8 position rim, would a 7 be better? I have a 20 inch bar on it.
 
8 Pin

The rim is trashed on my 70E. It has an 8 position rim, would a 7 be better? I have a 20 inch bar on it.

I'd stay with the 8 pin myself. Those saws have a lot of torque but not so high an rpm. 8 pin would kep your chain speed up and would run fine with a 20" bar. Perhaps a 7 pin if you went to a 24" or over.:cheers:
 
8 pin makes sense given your reasoning. Now I just need to find one.
 
Thanks for the tips guys. Even thought the RIM looks way different it does line right up with an Oregon 8 pin and I bet they even made it because the markings look identical.

Should I be changing the needle bearing while I am in there or at least greasing it?
 
Thanks for the tips guys. Even thought the RIM looks way different it does line right up with an Oregon 8 pin and I bet they even made it because the markings look identical.

Should I be changing the needle bearing while I am in there or at least greasing it?

I clean and grease every time I take off the clutch. It doesn't get much wear as it only is used when the saw idles.
 
Gee Brian that sucks. You know what they say about loaning saws out? Now the BIL has two crapped out saws!!
First thing I would do is change the spark plug to one that is known to be OK, new or used. Second, pop the muffler and make sure the problem isn't a mechanical issue (scored P&C). If that checks out return both H&L to the startup setting (one turn out) and see if that helps with the starting. If it does retune the saw. If not, the next thing I would look at is the screen in the top of the carb. This can be checked without removing the carb just pull the 4 screws in the top and remove. Near where the fuel enters the carb there is a tiny screen down in a 1/4" round hole. Make sure that is clean. Also examine the fuel line and filter for cracks, pin holes and filter clogging. If the screen is clean and the rest of the fuel delivery system is in good order then I would check the carb bolts for tightness and also the cyl base bolts. If you find the cyl is in fact loose you may have to make a new gasket as they are quite thin and if the cyl gets loose they usually end up with breaks. (air leaks!!)
Is your 70E the newer model (Alum fan) or the older model (Plastic fan)?
If it is the newer model check the air gap between the coil and flywheel. It should be 0.012" in both places. If it's the older model check the electrical connection between the recoil and the case. This sometimes becomes dirty or loose and doesn't make good contact. On both models look the wire to the kill switch over for any wear or breakage. That's the easy stuff.
Good luck and keep us posted.

FINALLY got the top cover off so I could get to the carb. I had to grind the head off the bolt near the clutch side handle bar mount (learned my lesson on loctite). The screen in the carb is full of what looks like sawdust and red paint???

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Wish I could find a nice straight handle like that one. I wonder why there are 5 holes drilled in the top of the recoil on mine and only two on Termite's? Do you guys think the little red paint particles could be coming from the fuel tank or something? Obviously the air filter compartment leaves a little to be desired. BIL must have been cutting with a REALLY dull chain to make "dust" in the true sense of the word. All of that crap on the screen in the carb has to be coming from the fuel tank right?
 
Wish I could find a nice straight handle like that one. I wonder why there are 5 holes drilled in the top of the recoil on mine and only two on Termite's? Do you guys think the little red paint particles could be coming from the fuel tank or something? Obviously the air filter compartment leaves a little to be desired. BIL must have been cutting with a REALLY dull chain to make "dust" in the true sense of the word. All of that crap on the screen in the carb has to be coming from the fuel tank right?

Yep red tank paint and probably filter fuzz. Are you running the original Jreds felt filter with the sintered bronze filter in the center?
 
Yep, my dad gave me this saw after we crushed my 362XP with the bobcat. I didn't really do anything but rebuild the carb. So yes the filter in the tank is likely OEM...
 
Yep, my dad gave me this saw after we crushed my 362XP with the bobcat. I didn't really do anything but rebuild the carb. So yes the filter in the tank is likely OEM...

Yeah, I have no idea how it does it but the felt filter fabric somehow makes its way through the sintered bronze filter and gets caught in the carb screen. Seen it a lot. Actually had a 49sp parts saw that the entire hole and screen were packed with filter fuzz. When I removed it, it was about the size of a new pencil reaser!! Was run that way, the results were a toasted clutch side main bearing and totally burnt up P&C. I think the guy was trying to "rev the skip out of it" Silly man!!!

Anyway it is a good thing to keep track of and clean once in a while.
 
70E Filter

Here is the filter in my 70E. Judging by the clamp and the spring clamp on the other end of the fuel line (carb end) I am pretty sure this is OEM. Should I look for a NOS one or can I go with a more modern one that won't break down?

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I had the same crap plug the screen on my 49SP. Friend of mine who was a part time saw mechanic at the local Jonsered dealer told me that he used to see that all the time on these (and only these) saws. Cleaning that screen was the first thing he'd do when a Jonsered saw came in with low power. They were usually almost plugged solid.

Looked like wood fiber to me but I couldn't figure out how it got into the screen.

The saw is in semi retirement now. Maybe I'll fire it up & see if it happens again.

Alan
 
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