Jonsered Chainsaws

[PB]

I got my new style Husky filter today. That being said how do I get that metal band clamp off the fuel line to remove the old filter?

I would just replace the fuel line while you are at it. If you want to keep the original line, just use some pliers to uncrimp the metal band. If it is the original fuel line, I doubt it will seal properly on the new filter. The fuel line is only a couple of dollars. The pig tail for newer huskies will work or any 3/16" ID fuel line from an OPE dealer.

 

[briantutt]

I would just replace the fuel line while you are at it. If you want to keep the original line, just use some pliers to uncrimp the metal band. If it is the original fuel line, I doubt it will seal properly on the new filter. The fuel line is only a couple of dollars. The pig tail for newer huskies will work or any 3/16" ID fuel line from an OPE dealer.

One of these?

http://www.baileysonline.com/itemdetail.asp?item=QH+54432+5001&catID=

or these?

http://www.baileysonline.com/itemdetail.asp?item=QH+50357+7602&catID=

 

[PB]

One of these?

http://www.baileysonline.com/itemdetail.asp?item=QH+54432+5001&catID=

or these?

http://www.baileysonline.com/itemdetail.asp?item=QH+50357+7602&catID=

Yep they are both the same thing. I would check a local Husky or Jred dealer before you pay for shipping from CA. Any Husky dealer should have a pile on hand, or just hit up your local mower shop and ask for 3/16" fuel line.

 

[briantutt]

Doesn't the fuel line have to go through the case and seal with just a friction fit? Wouldn't the OD be critical?

 

[Cantdog]

70E and 49SP Fuel Lines

Doesn't the fuel line have to go through the case and seal with just a friction fit? Wouldn't the OD be critical?

Yes Brian it is critical but as PB said standard 3/16"ID fuel line will work perfectly. It is however a very tight fit in the case. The method I've found works best is as follows. Start with about a foot of fuel line. It is quite hard to compress it enough to get started so I use a small screwdriver and force the tube into the hole. Once you have it started enough so there is 1/2" or so sticking into the tank take a pair of long needle nosed pliers and grab the end and using the fuel opening as a purchase point, lever the fuel line down into the tank. Pull more than enough line out through the fuel tank opening and cut off any of the line that may have got damaged from pushing with the screwdriver and pliers. Install the new filter and pull the line back up through the hole in the case until the filter will hang down and lie flat on its side at the bottom of the tank. Cut the other end to fit to the carb and saw wood.

 

[Pierreg]

M80 oiler cam position question.

While replacing mains/seals,I didn't notice the position of the oiler cam.While studying it in a service manual,I see the high spot needs to align with the connecting rod pin.Of course,mine is not.So,do I need to pull and realign the cam? Does this play with the balance of the crank?I'm thinking pull it and do it correctly.Any thoughts? Thanks.

 

[briantutt]

Yes Brian it is critical but as PB said standard 3/16"ID fuel line will work perfectly. It is however a very tight fit in the case. The method I've found works best is as follows. Start with about a foot of fuel line. It is quite hard to compress it enough to get started so I use a small screwdriver and force the tube into the hole. Once you have it started enough so there is 1/2" or so sticking into the tank take a pair of long needle nosed pliers and grab the end and using the fuel opening as a purchase point, lever the fuel line down into the tank. Pull more than enough line out through the fuel tank opening and cut off any of the line that may have got damaged from pushing with the screwdriver and pliers. Install the new filter and pull the line back up through the hole in the case until the filter will hang down and lie flat on its side at the bottom of the tank. Cut the other end to fit to the carb and saw wood.

Picked up some 3/16 OD Oregon fuel line and a new style filter from the Husky shop yesterday. The 3/16 line slips right through the hole in th gas tank. Guess I need bigger O.D. I asked about the Husky pigtail looking fuel line and the guy behind the counter looked at me like I was nuts. Maybe Baileys customer service knows which one will fit tight in the 70E tank.

 

[Cantdog]

Picked up some 3/16 OD Oregon fuel line and a new style filter from the Husky shop yesterday. The 3/16 line slips right through the hole in th gas tank. Guess I need bigger O.D. I asked about the Husky pigtail looking fuel line and the guy behind the counter looked at me like I was nuts. Maybe Baileys customer service knows which one will fit tight in the 70E tank.

Brian you need 3/16" ID not OD
Reread posts 261 and 265 Good luck...

Just regular straight fuel line is whatyou want.

 

[Cantdog]

While replacing mains/seals,I didn't notice the position of the oiler cam.While studying it in a service manual,I see the high spot needs to align with the connecting rod pin.Of course,mine is not.So,do I need to pull and realign the cam? Does this play with the balance of the crank?I'm thinking pull it and do it correctly.Any thoughts? Thanks.

Peter I too have been looking at that in the service manuals. They say that is the way it is supposed to be. But as you have seen they are not always in that position when the crank is pulled. I am also assuming that it is a minor balance issue. I have seen them all over the place and never noticed a one saw being more out of balance than another. As a matter of fact I have a 49SP running a 52 piston which weighs over 11 grams more than the 49 piston set and you can't tell the difference from a reg 49sp. The crankshaft is the same part # for both saws so the factory didn't even balance them any differently.
It may timed that way to take advantage of the power stroke as the cam would be at max lift when the crankpin is at 3:00 on the down stroke.

I never thought or worried much about it but I think from now on when replacing main bearings I will do it as the book says. But again as I have seen the cams in every position and don't believe it to be a big deal. In other words it may not be 100% correct but neither do I think it will cause any problems. IMHO!!

Someone else may have a better explanation/opinion. I'm all ears!!!

 

[briantutt]

Brian you need 3/16" ID not OD
Reread posts 261 and 265 Good luck...

Just regular straight fuel line is whatyou want.

oooops

Thanks for setting me straight.

 

[Cantdog]

oooops

Thanks for setting me straight.

No problem Brian. Before I posted about the installation, I went out to the shop and installed a piece on 3/16 ID in a 49SP case which uses the same setup as the 70E just to be positive about the size. Make sure when you get a new piece of 3/16 ID it still fits the filter you got at the same time. You may need a filter with the larger hose barb. Good luck

 

[grgbandkng]

My saws

Here are a few pics of my Jonsereds. The first one is my M 36, purchased by my late uncle in 1975. I still have the original purchase reciept and it still cuts like mad. The second two are my 52. I just bought it today, and it came with both a 16 and 18 inch bar. They are both 3/8 pitch. Was that common on the 52? Acres site says that the 52 came with a .325 pitch. The last two are my pride and joy, an 80. I got it from my dad, and I have a 20 and 27 inch bar for it.

 

[Matt Michael]

70e

I got an old beat up looking 70E at a yard sale about 10 years ago and that saw is the most amazing thing. I'm STILL using Big Red today. I've had to replace the bar from wear, the handle from damage, and the ignition from failure, but it still runs strong. What an incredible piece of machinery! I get a big kick out of handing it to friends, like I did today after dropping a big dead pine, and telling them to make a cut. It always gets an amazed reaction. I bet it's paid for its self 500 times over by now.

 

[Cantdog]

Here are a few pics of my Jonsereds. The first one is my M 36, purchased by my late uncle in 1975. I still have the original purchase reciept and it still cuts like mad. The second two are my 52. I just bought it today, and it came with both a 16 and 18 inch bar. They are both 3/8 pitch. Was that common on the 52? Acres site says that the 52 came with a .325 pitch. The last two are my pride and joy, an 80. I got it from my dad, and I have a 20 and 27 inch bar for it.

Nice looking saws. The first Jonsereds I ever ran was an M36 in 1976. It was slightly used and cut real nice but was just to small for my needs at that time. I have been keeping my eye out for one in good shape but I've not lucked out yet.

The 52 came either way. Most were 3/8" as they will pull it fine and that keeps the chains and files the same as most other larger saws. But that said they cut great with .325 8 pin I've always found. The 49sp came either way as well however most were fitted with .325 8 pin. Both the same sized motors but the 52 is a pro series saw with a closed port cyl and two ring piston whereas the 49 is open port single ring, semi pro with a little less power. The 52 also has the same electronics as the 621 and 80. Anyway the 52 is an excellent saw IMHO.

That 80 looks to be in great shape too. Great it was your dads. I have 5 80s. one that runs super with a 24" bar and I will probably get 3 runners from the four that don't run now. Love those big old saws, you just gotta be commited when starting them up!!!!

Thanks for the pics. Nice saws!!

 

[Cantdog]

I got an old beat up looking 70E at a yard sale about 10 years ago and that saw is the most amazing thing. I'm STILL using Big Red today. I've had to replace the bar from wear, the handle from damage, and the ignition from failure, but it still runs strong. What an incredible piece of machinery! I get a big kick out of handing it to friends, like I did today after dropping a big dead pine, and telling them to make a cut. It always gets an amazed reaction. I bet it's paid for its self 500 times over by now.

Yep the 70E is a real nice saw. If you can find the parts to keep them going they will earn their keep. I've spent many hrs on the 70E, a bit on the heavy side but great for bucking saw logs or felling big pine.

LOL!! We used to call ours "Big Jon"

 

[PB]

Yep the 70E is a real nice saw. If you can find the parts to keep them going they will earn their keep. I've spent many hrs on the 70E, a bit on the heavy side but great for bucking saw logs or felling big pine.

LOL!! We used to call ours "Big Jon"

Ours is "Big Bertha"! LOL! I always said it was like a bar braud, big, loud and will kick your ass.

 

[IrwinJeff]

I just bought a J-Red 2171! I haven't used it yet, but can't wait to mow through some stuff! I only got a 16" bar on it as well, so it should absolutely fly!

 

[Plankton]

I bought a Jred 2153 with an 18" bar last week for basic tree work. Out here I can cut down almost any tree that needs/can get cut down with an 18" bar and not have to cut on the other side.

Except for around an acre on my land that is full of HUGE dying and dead pines. Most are 28" across and theres a few that are probably around 36". They all got the pine bug back when it came through here in '96 so they're all forked at around 12 feet up.

I was going to get the 2188 with a 32" bar for this operation. Anyone ever ran a 2188?

cheers

 

[dans3kgt]

Here are a couple pictutres of my Jonsered .I love this saw and use it most of the time when I cut. I have lighter saws but I just like the way this one feels in my hands. And the power is insane.

 

[nh-rob]

here is one of my 910s on my dads saw mill. I inherited all my jonsereds from my grandfather and have lots more in parts. I think I can get a few more of them running. I have a 451 that looks promising.